Critique/help with sportcoat and blazer fit

[dk123]

I have been trying to buy a new suit and a sportcoat or two for the last couple months without much success. I am difficult to fit, I think, in that my chest is about a 40r, but my shoulders are sloped and narrow, and I have had some injury issues with the right shoulder, so that the shoulders are not an even height. Also, while my waist is about a 33, my rear end is on the large side, so that the vents in most jackets dont close properly. It seems that my best bet is something with a narrow and soft shoulder, but it is really hard to find anything reasonably priced that meets those criteria. If I size down so the shoulders fit in an otr jacket, then the waist and rear are too tight, and the chest may be a bit tight as well...and if it's a suit, the pants may not fit. I don't want to spend the money for anything mtm, so I have been trying to come up with something otr to little avail....it seems the best option so far is RL blue label. I am going to (try to) attach some pictures of some jackets I have been debating about, in the hopes that I can get some advice about whether any of these can work with alterations.

This is an Arnold Brant blazer in 38r:

This is the same blazer in 39r:

This is a Brooks Brothers sportcoat in 38r, I feel like the fit in the shoulders is very good, but the rear vent is flaring comically. There is a fair amount of extra material, so I'm wondering if I have the waist let out if it might close up, although I'm thinking maybe I should just return it:

Anyway, thanks for any advice...if any one has a good ass-reduction surgeon...let me know.

 

[paulwinston]

When buying something that is off-the-rack you must fit the largest part - in your case your seat. The amount of out let in ready made clothing limits how much any thing can be let out. The areas that need reduction can usually be accomodated. Most retail establishments do not do major alterations well- either because they do not know how or because they are not willing to do them. ( Major alterations are what I call "Lose Lose" situations. You are charged what you think is a lot of money and the time it takes to do the alteration properly means the cost is barely covered.) When an individual has a prominent seat, side vents are not reccommended. Sometime the alteration cost can have the garment approach what you would have paid for a MTM garment that would fit you better. Good luck in your search. Paul Winston Winston Tailors/ Chipp 2 http://www.chipp2.com/blog/

 

[cvac]

Return the BB no matter what. There is no way that can be made to fit. I would say the same thing about the 38R blazer.

Unless you are comfortable wearing a jacket that is pretty loose in the shoulders and back you are probably going to have to go the MTM route.

 

[dk123]

Thank you gentlemen for your help. You have kind of confirmed what I was thinking. Here are some pictures of the jacket of a Polo tuxedo that came today. It is a 40r, and I think it's a pretty good fit. The pictures are a bit grainy, but what alterations would be recommended for this? The pants seem to fit well. Also, are there any other brands that tend to have a similar fit to the polo stuff?

Thanks again!

 

[cvac]

The pics on the tux are way grainy, but from what I can see it still looks like the fit is off. The problem with all these jackets is they are not cut to accommodate your body in the torso area just below the waist and backside. Look at the side view. It doesn't look right.

I imagine you are going to need a very skilled tailor to cut a suit that fits you properly.

 

[dk123]

Originally Posted by cvac

The pics on the tux are way grainy, but from what I can see it still looks like the fit is off. The problem with all these jackets is they are not cut to accommodate your body in the torso area just below the waist and backside. Look at the side view. It doesn't look right.

I imagine you are going to need a very skilled tailor to cut a suit that fits you properly.


I retook the pictures.