tweedydon
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STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL ALPACUNA POLO COAT!
Made c.1946 - 1948.
Made c.1946 - 1948.
This is absolutely gorgeous--and a VERY serious coat indeed; I suspect that this beauty weighs in excess of 8lbs! This is absolutely certain to keep you warm even on the coldest of winter days!
This is a truly wonderful coat.... Not the least because of its history.
"Alpacuna" was a cloth developed by Jacob Siegel Co. of Philadelphia; it featured a combination of at least 50% alpaca, blended with mohair and virgin wool. They claimed that this cloth was 26% warmer, 61% longer wearing, and yet lighter than comparable wool overcoats. (I'm not sure how they came to these very precise measurements!) The cloth was certainly wonderful... But the name "Alpacuna", which they coined, caught the eye of the Federal Trade Commission, who objected to it on the grounds that it implied that the cloth contained vicuna..... a fabric that's more luxurious and expensive than cashmere. (For an overview of vicuna, please see my post yesterday on my Facebook Page, Waterhollowtweed.) In 1943 the FTC banned the term "Alpacuna"; this led to a lawsuit that resulted (in 1946) in a compromise; "Alpacuna" could be used as a term, but Siegal had to add the disclaimer that the cloth contains no vicuna.
So, this coat--with the disclaimer--is post-1946..... as you'd expect, since while it presents as a vintage coat (coats of this quality are just not made that much anymore, as it has classic Golden Age styling). HOWEVER, it carries a "centered red" Union Tag (i.e., one with red text in the central strip), and so dates from between 1939 and 1948. Since it also carries the "no vicuna" disclaimer, this coat can be dated precisely to either 1946, 1947, or 1948.
That in itself would make this an appealing coat, especially given its wonderful condition. (This coat shows how long good garments can be serviceable if properly looked after, as it's ready to give at least four or five decades more wear!) But even if this wasn't a genuinely vintage piece, and even if it lacked its interesting history, this would be a very desirable coat indeed.
First, the fabric.... as noted above, this is a blend of Alpaca, Mohair, and wool, with at least 40% Alpaca in the mix. This fabric is wonderful, and pretty nearly bulletproof-as I noted above, this coat weighs a LOT! It also has a beautiful hand. And it's a wonderful rich, dark, honey colour.
This is a stunning coat.
In addition to the wonderful quality of the fabric this coat is beautifully cut and wonderfully constructed. It appears to be fully canvassed, and it is certainly fully lined. It has the two classic deep patch and flapped pockets of the true Polo coat, and these feature surrounding lapped seams. It has a 6 by 3 closure, an a classic Ulster collar, standard for Polo coats. It has lapped seams down the sleeves, which end in turn-back cuffs, designed for longevity. The center back seam is also lapped, and terminates in a lovely hook vent. It features lapped edge seams on the lapels. There is also some handwork on this coat, not the least on the classic Alpacuna interior label, with its clear disclaimer. It has a deep side-set breast pocket on the interior for your wallet.
Of course, this coat was Union made in the USA, and carries the red-centered Union tag to prove it.
And there's more. This coat was originally sold by Fred. Donnelly, of Trenton--back when Trenton was FAR wealthier and WASP than its neighbour, Princeton. F.W. Donnelly was THE exclusive men's haberdashers, and considered itself to cater to a far more sophisticated and worldly clientele that their Princeton rivals, such as Langrock or The English Shop, with their reliance on undergraduates and academics. Donnelly's catered to the political elite of New Jersey--indeed, Frederick Donnelly, the owner of Donnelly's, was mayor of Trenton for 20 years, from 1911 to 1931.
This coat is in almost Excellent condition. It does have three small moth nibbles on the back, as shown; the largest is near the hem, and so is unlikely to be seen when worn. These could be ignored--the mothing is NOT active now--as they are inconspicuous, or else readily rewoven. Because of these, this coat is in Very Good/Excellent condition, and so is a steal at
just $175, OR OFFER, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 25
Shoulder: 18
Length: 45
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