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  1. Chow Chow

    The SwissArmySuit™: a sartorial strip tease

    Vox: Could we have a pic with waistcoat on and coat off to see the fit?
  3. Chow Chow

    The SwissArmySuit™: a sartorial strip tease

    I thought the buttons in the keystone style were supposed to be on a straight line, but they are not. Is Edwin's rendering here the customary way, or a variation?
  4. Chow Chow

    Mid-century Despots from LIFE Magazine

    Tiny Rowland, who owned A&S (his family still does), was CEO of Lonrho, whose business was largely in Africa. Rowland offered complementary A&S services to curry favor with African rulers.
  5. Chow Chow

    London. City style, 1964

    This would be fascinating but is probably only accessible in the UK. I'm in the US and would have loved to see it, as much for the history of finance as for the history of dress.
  6. Chow Chow

    Bespoke Tragedies

    I also appreciate Sator's posts though I often don't understand them. Perhaps we could have a post on how to understand Sator's posts, or rather how to understand cutting diagrams.
  7. Chow Chow

    Cardigans

    I endorse the alpaca recommendation. I have quite a few alpaca garments and a fairly good knowledge of what's available since I travel a lot to Peru, which is one of the main sources. There are a very few alpaca yarns that are finished with a very rough texture, which I would avoid. Oddly...
  8. Chow Chow

    Caid Tailor, A Japanese Trad Picture Blog

    Some of the waistcoats are particularly well done.
  9. Chow Chow

    Edward green 202 last

    Since fit is a matter of each person's foot, how can one say, as a general matter, that one last fits better than another? The 888 sounds very nice but would it fit someone with a slightly wide foot (is there a place in DC where I could go to try on the various EG lasts?)?
  10. Chow Chow

    Black Tie Done Well.

    I think this one looks amazing! I really like the rounded lapels. The whole look in the Clark Gable photo is great but the waistcoat is what stands out most to me. What works really well is: (1) the deep points; (2) the angle of the cut-away below the button position (not too sharp an angle)...
  11. Chow Chow

    Would you buy a solid charcoal grey odd jacket?

    What about a black jacket with a herringbone weave in the manner of a stroller? I have been contemplating one of these for suitless days.
  12. Chow Chow

    istanbul help

    I have been to Istanbul many times on business and know that there are a number of long-established bespoke shoe makers, and that Istanbul was known at least at one time as a place where good bespoke shoes could be had. Unfortunately I do not recall the names. They are all near Istiklal, but...
  13. Chow Chow

    Cantarelli quality?

    Cantarelli, make, or have made, OTR items for Huntsman. The ones I have seen were of quite good quality, made to the Huntsman silhouette (the maker was id'd in a label inside the pocket). Huntsman sells them for a lot more than the items you are looking out, but there is no indication of...
  14. Chow Chow

    "The Sultans of Style" - Fortune photo portfolio including A&S

    Pier Luigi (right) rockin' a notch lapel DB. The light in the picture is deceiving. If you look closely, it is a peak lapel.
  15. Chow Chow

    Shopping in Ireland

    I was in Galway a few years ago and was told there is, or was, a fine bespoke tailor in the town of Broadway near Shannon who specializes in riding clothes.
  16. Chow Chow

    Flusser: Navy Suits "Overpowering" for Young Men

    My first two custom suits were from Flusser and blue, per Flusser's recommendation as with Manton. In context the statement seems to me to be that blue is a little more formal than grey, and the wearer who's junior in rank may be feel that he is, or seems to be, dressing too far over his rank...
  17. Chow Chow

    Shirt cuff fit?

    It should be snug enough to stay in place when you move your arms and get in and out of your jacket. Ready-to-wear shirts almost always have cuffs that are far too loose.
  18. Chow Chow

    Waistcoats

    My tailor made a suit, to my surprise, with a waistcoat back in the suit material. I asked him to change because Bemberg is less bulk and its easier to remain cool, and there is less friction between the back of the material and the back of the coat, so it is more comfortable as I move around.
  19. Chow Chow

    I want a homburg: homburg = ascot?

    A black homburg or a grey with more nap would look very elegant with a dark coat, though you will strike some as a bit eccentric or dandyish. I have both and like them. Wearing either with a camel polo coat puts you further out on the eccentric/dandy spectrum. Dark camel is quite a bit...
  20. Chow Chow

    Summertime Chan Jacket

    What I really like about this is the high gorge and the high waist, which works really whether even if the button point were a bit a lower or the length slightly different.
  21. Chow Chow

    Allmeier Shirts, 109 Westt 24th Street, NYC

    I've also had alterations done there on London shirts. At least two of the Jermyn St. firms, H&K and, I think, Cole, recommended them. They did a good job for a fair price. I have not had shirts made there, but they are in the biz.
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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

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  • Half canvas is fine

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    Votes: 41 16.7%

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    Votes: 38 15.4%
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