What is the quintessential men's navy blue blazer?

[Thilgela]

@dieworkwear what would you recommend for a year round navy blazer RTW? Like the one you mentioned with some weights that can wear both with fresco trousers in S/S and flannels in F/W?

I have been looking for years for a sportcoat like this but RTW is really hard to have things like Neapolitan detail (patch pockets, unpadded shoulder, etc.) together with a heavier fabric.

most navy ones I see RTW are super lightweight hopsacks that are intended for summer instead of all year round.

Or they are very American style ones

 

[breakaway01]

@dieworkwear what would you recommend for a year round navy blazer RTW? Like the one you mentioned with some weights that can wear both with fresco trousers in S/S and flannels in F/W?

I have been looking for years for a sportcoat like this but RTW is really hard to have things like Neapolitan detail (patch pockets, unpadded shoulder, etc.) together with a heavier fabric.

most navy ones I see RTW are super lightweight hopsacks that are intended for summer instead of all year round.

Or they are very American style ones

FYI, DWW left earlier this year and I don’t think anyone knows if he’ll return. Anyhow, I think he is/was a fan of the Armoury Model 3 sportcoat, and I do think some of the fabrics on their website check a lot of the boxes you’re looking for. However, I think it’s a little much to expect to be able to wear the same jacket with flannel and with fresco, though maybe it depends on how mild your climate is.

 

[Thilgela]

FYI, DWW left earlier this year and I don’t think anyone knows if he’ll return. Anyhow, I think he is/was a fan of the Armoury Model 3 sportcoat, and I do think some of the fabrics on their website check a lot of the boxes you’re looking for. However, I think it’s a little much to expect to be able to wear the same jacket with flannel and with fresco.

Thanks for the insights! Do you think the Armoury model 3 one is more suited for fresco or flannel?

I think the really question I am asking is, the navy jacket with grey pants is a staple look, hopsack + fresco is a no brainer, but what would be the ideal jacket to wear with the flannel, except for the typical serge blazer that has flap pockets and padded shoulders? Cashmere? Tweed? Heavier worsted? regular worsted in a fancier weave, e.g., birdseye/herringbone?

Everyone has been saying navy blazer + grey flannels, but I am more curious about what fabric people actually used for the one they wear with flannels.

 

[breakaway01]

Thanks for the insights! Do you think the Armoury model 3 one is more suited for fresco or flannel?

I think the really question I am asking is, the navy jacket with grey pants is a staple look, hopsack + fresco is a no brainer, but what would be the ideal jacket to wear with the flannel, except for the typical serge blazer that has flap pockets and padded shoulders? Cashmere? Tweed? Heavier worsted? regular worsted in a fancier weave, e.g., birdseye/herringbone?

Everyone has been saying navy blazer + grey flannels, but I am more curious about what fabric people actually used for the one they wear with flannels.

Hopsack also comes in different weights and you can definitely wear a heavier hopsack (say 13+ oz) with flannel in the winter. A heavier serge would work too. Once you get into tweed, etc I’d argue that’s a navy odd sportcoat but not really a blazer. Personally if you live where you have cold winters and hot summers, I’d look for a three-season fabric to cover you fall-winter-spring and then a summer fabric like a Mocklino.

 

[Thilgela]

Hopsack also comes in different weights and you can definitely wear a heavier hopsack (say 13+ oz) with flannel in the winter. A heavier serge would work too. Once you get into tweed, etc I’d argue that’s a navy odd sportcoat but not really a blazer. Personally if you live where you have cold winters and hot summers, I’d look for a three-season fabric to cover you fall-winter-spring and then a summer fabric like a Mocklino.

This is super helpful! Thank you! I live in SoCal so can just sport typical hop sack + fresco all year round. However, I do travel to colder places regularly, and I need something that’s more hefty, as appearing in a lightweight hopsack in December in NYC is just odd. Hence the struggle to find a proper navy blazer to pair with the flannels for FW.

I guess the best would be find a heftier hopsack/serge for traveling then mock Leno type of clothes when I in SoCal.

Or just 2 hopsacks, one for S/S, and one for F/W?

Any other recommendation for a S/S one? Fresco on fresco is definitely no go, probably some blends?

For F/W, what about cashmere? I had 1 before and it’s no longer fitting, I found them to be good looking but they are just very soft and delicate. Have little to no structure, and easily lose shape, but want to see how you guys think about it.

 

[breakaway01]

This is super helpful! Thank you! I live in SoCal so can just sport typical hop sack + fresco all year round. However, I do travel to colder places regularly, and I need something that’s more hefty, as appearing in a lightweight hopsack in December in NYC is just odd. Hence the struggle to find a proper navy blazer to pair with the flannels for FW.

I guess the best would be find a heftier hopsack/serge for traveling then mock Leno type of clothes when I in SoCal.

Or just 2 hopsacks, one for S/S, and one for F/W?

Any other recommendation for a S/S one? Fresco on fresco is definitely no go, probably some blends?

For F/W, what about cashmere? I had 1 before and it’s no longer fitting, I found them to be good looking but they are just very soft and delicate. Have little to no structure, and easily lose shape, but want to see how you guys think about it.

What do you currently have? A lightweight blazer?

If you need something for colder weather, does not need to be too heavy. A midweight fabric will be more versatile than a heavy fabric. When you're inside, you'll more than likely be in a climate-controlled setting. When you're outside, you'll be wearing an overcoat.

What kind of flannel do you wear? Not all flannel is the same. A mid-weight (say 12-13 oz) worsted flannel won't look out of place with a standard 3-season navy blazer. A heavy 15 oz woolen flannel isn't all that comfortable in most heated offices IMO.

Agree that cashmere isn't the best choice for a jacket you'll wear regularly, IMO.

 

[Thilgela]

What do you currently have? A lightweight blazer?

If you need something for colder weather, does not need to be too heavy. A midweight fabric will be more versatile than a heavy flannel. When you're inside, you'll more than likely be in a climate-controlled setting. When you're outside, you'll be wearing an overcoat.

What kind of flannel do you wear? Not all flannel is the same. A mid-weight (say 12-13 oz) worsted flannel won't look out of place with a standard 3-season navy blazer. A heavy 15 oz woolen flannel isn't all that comfortable in most heated offices IMO.

Agree that cashmere isn't the best choice for a jacket you'll wear regularly, IMO.

Make sense! I don't have anything now because i've grown out of all the things i have. So planning to start over and get the new wardrobe minimal/versatile.

I am eyeing for an English flannel that is around 370g, but i think it would be woolen instead of worsted. So finding the blazer that works for this one, and another fresco I bought, is the key.

Seems like the current conclusion is a midweight hopsack then?

 

[breakaway01]

Make sense! I don't have anything now because i've grown out of all the things i have. So planning to start over and get the new wardrobe minimal/versatile.

I am eyeing for an English flannel that is around 370g, but i think it would be woolen instead of worsted. So finding the blazer that works for this one, and another fresco I bought, is the key.

Seems like the current conclusion is a midweight hopsack then?

Right, I think a mid weight hopsack would be a good choice.

 

[MR CHARVET]

I have about 10 navy sports coats. My favorites are a Dunhill & a Cesare Attolini.