Critique the Fit (Land's End Custom & Nordstrom)

[timutsler]

Has anyone used Nordstrom's made-to measure program? Is it any better than Land's End? This thread makes it sound like they only take neck and sleeve measurements, but unless you're a really weird shape, how is that any different than an OTR Nordstrom shirt?

 

[dapperdude]

Both look nice. The LE shirt fits better in the body, but the sleeves could stand to be shortened another inch or so.

It makes me want to try Lands End Custom again (got a not great fit the first try).

 

[TCN]

Originally Posted by diorshoe

isnt that slim enough? how slim do you guys like to wear your dress shirts, i mean, for me that is too slim. i like a more blousy fit.

Some of these guys like 'em painted on.

 

[NoVaguy]

Originally Posted by stephen

I actually placed an order with Jantzen sometime last Fall, but never heard anything back from them.

The good thing about Land's End is they're fast and reliable... I've also heard their return policy is quite good. I might test it out soon and see if they'll still let me return this shirt.

To add to the mix, I think I might change a few things:

1. Shorten the sleeves (1") -- reduce bunching and wrinkling?
2. Widen the cuffs (0.5") -- I can't pull my hand through without unbuttoning. What should a well-fitted shirt be like?
3. Take in the waist slightly -- Not sure if LE can do this anymore.
4. Button-down. My new collar preference. Much cleaner and easier if you're not wearing a jacket.
5. One-button on the cuff. Two-buttons look awkward without a jacket.
6. Different buttons. These are thick MOP. I think I prefer a less-yellowish thinner button.
7. Different fabric. Maybe a step up to 80s would result in a less "worn" look?

Any more thoughts? I actually quite like the make of the Nordstrom one, but when I wear it for more than 5 minutes, my pleats get loose and it "pooches out" like I have a beer gut instead of a six pack.

Shorten the sleeves, don't bother with the cuffs (you're not supposed to be able to pull your hand through without unbuttoning), take the waist in maybe an inch (not a fan of the superslim look). And yeah, step up to the 80's if you can - I think my white shirt from LE is 80s (although it was my first shirt, so the fit isn't as good).

I actually like the 2 button cuff and 2 button collar buttondown from LE. But the cheap fabrics (the $49 plain and $59 pattern fabrics) are rough.

One negative about LE - they really step up the price for moderate improvements in the fabric - $59 and $79 for 80's in plain and pattern fabrics, and then the prices start jumping up to $100 and beyond.

 

[Jared]

Originally Posted by TCN

Some of these guys like 'em painted on.

The fit on the OP's LE shirt could easily be achieved OTR with higher quality/$. The point of MTM is supposed to be getting a shirt that only has extra fabric where it's needed for comfort. If you want a shirt to hide in, get OTR.

 

[NoVaguy]

Originally Posted by Jared

The fit on the OP's LE shirt could easily be achieved OTR with higher quality/$. The point of MTM is supposed to be getting a shirt that only has extra fabric where it's needed for comfort. If you want a shirt to hide in, get OTR.

not really, no.

most OTR shirts have a minimal chest to waist drop. so even if you wanted a comfortable clearance (say 5 to 9 inches), instead of the supertight (3 to 7), you still have the problem of the drop - a 6 inch clearance at the chest (i.e., the proper fit in the chest) would turn into a 10 or 11 inch clearance at the waist (improper fit at the waist).

and of course, OTR gives you less choice as to collar design, pocket/no pocket, cuffs, and dealing with things like different arm lengths and shoulder drops.

The reason I originally went to LE MTM was to go to someone that could (1) deal with my 7 inch chest to waist drop; (2) offer a two button spread collar, FC and no goddamn chest pocket, and (3) get it to me within a 6 week period.

Of course, without constraints 2 and 3, I can simply take OTR shirts to a simple alteration tailor and in fact, that is what I usually do, albeit with irregular results.

 

[rick1977]

Originally Posted by NoVaguy

Of course, without constraints 2 and 3, I can simply take OTR shirts to a simple alteration tailor and in fact, that is what I usually do, albeit with irregular results.
From whom in the DC area have you received the best results for altering shirts? Thanks.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by stephen

In the never-ending quest to find something that actually fits a tall, slim guy -- I had a custom shirt made by Land's End a while ago. It's been through the wash 5 times by now. I'm *not* impressed with the fabric (already looks kind of worn), but I did choose the cheapest one (100% cotton oxford).

I've also posted a photo of an off-the-rack shirt I got at Nordstrom's Rack the other day. It's a 16x36 "Tailored Fit" Nordstrom label shirt. I've "reverse military tucked" the back so it's not completely parachute like. You can kind of tell in the back picture, but there are two 3" tucked pleats or so on each side of the back.

Anyway -- what are your thoughts on the fit of each shirt? I may try for another Land's End one and wanted to know what people thought I should change. I have a few thoughts, but wanted to hear other opinions!

Thanks!

Land's End Custom:

Nordstrom:

lands end. the fullness near the cuff is excess length. wrinkles at the elbow sleeve is too tight plus you say its cheap all cotton.
nordstrom sleeve length ok. notice a looser sleeve fit.
both shirts should be smaller at the waist.
both have cuffs that should be a bit smaller around the wrist.
that way they wont slide so far down on your hand.
you have a right low shoulder.
instead of a sitting picture, a view hanging out would be of more help.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by a tailor

lands end. the fullness near the cuff is excess length. wrinkles at the elbow sleeve is too tight plus you say its cheap all cotton.
nordstrom sleeve length ok. notice a looser sleeve fit.
both shirts should be smaller at the waist.
both have cuffs that should be a bit smaller around the wrist.
that way they wont slide so far down on your hand.
you have a right low shoulder.
instead of a sitting picture, a view hanging out would be of more help.

the center seam on your trousers needs to be reshaped for a better look.
see your tailor about that.