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Spier & Mackay Trousers fit advice - contemporary vs slim

spacenegroes

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Here are two trousers, both high rise in size 32. The gray donegal is in the slim fit I own already, and the navy flannel is the contemporary fit I just bought.

The gray fits much better in general, but in purchasing the navy flannel, I wanted it a bit more classic in the leg, and to fall cleanly. The gray is just slightly too slim for that. Both require a bit of cinching at the side tabs to sit at my waist. Unfortunately, while this seems fine for the thicker fabric on the gray, this causes bunching on the flannel navy.

However, the bigger issue is that from behind, both look sloppy, with the navy looking downright terrible.

What's the cause of this, and what should I do about it? Do I have an unusual stance/proportion and need tailoring on every pair I buy? Should I size down to the 30 in the navy (and just not have the option of opening up the side tabs after a big dinner)?

Thanks in advance.
 

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rjc149

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Why exactly do you think they look terrible from behind? I think they look fine.

I get my S&M trousers in 32 contemporary, standard rise with belt loops, and get the waist taken in slightly. It seems that side tabs make this adjustment a little less simple. The slims are too tapered for my liking, and size 30 is way too snug in the crotch for me. 30 is a step down in wearability and comfort, although I can't say for certain if that will be the case for you.

For $100 - $150 dress trousers, I'm expecting some alterations and not expecting perfection.
 

rjc149

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Do you not think this looks awful? Not saying I expect RTW pants to look like the pictures here, but this isn't even in the same ballpark.

View attachment 2131703
I think it looks basically OK for S&M trousers. Maybe you could go a size down for a closer fit around the hips and thighs, but as I mentioned, that could come at the cost of wearable comfort. If you put this dude's ass in a harsher light like your photo, I'd be pretty sure it wouldn't look as perfect (whatever 'perfect' looks like).
 

breakaway01

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have you ironed/pressed the navy trousers already?

might be worth taking to a good alterations tailor. I am not a tailor but I think those could be improved by reducing the back rise slightly. If you pin up 1/4-1/2" of fabric horizonally across the back of the trousers just below the waistband, do they drape better? This might give you a slight wedgie -- if so, might need to let the seat out a bit.
 

SteveMc

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For the navy pair, I think a lot of what's going on at the back is because you cinch them to the max and that creates the folds along your hip and down the leg. In my eyes, if you need to cinch them that much, then probably not the right size for you. 30 contemporary might work better.

For the gray pair, looks like you need to let out the crotch seam. It's a common complaint about S&M trousers especially from those with a bit more rear. There isn't a lot to take out, but from experience it is usually enough to make a difference.
 

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