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17 CLASSIC JACKETS! Sizes 36 - 50. GRAILS! Zegna, 1954 Southwick 3/2 sack for Andover Shop, VINTAGE

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tweedydon

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I have several wonderful jackets to pass along today, including a vintage Abercrombie & Fitch in pure cashmere, a gorgeous 1954 3/2 tweed sack by Southwick for The Andover Shop, Turnbull & Asser in cashmere and wool, several wonderful Harris Tweeds, and more!

As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING IN THE USA; International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost!

Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

Please PM with interest and offers!


1) GRAIL! VINTAGE Abercrombie & Fitch three button sack jacket in PURE CASHMERE


Abercrombie & Fitch is mainly known now for its teenager-oriented fashion, and its rather tacky ad. campaigns. It's also known for claiming that it's been an authentic American company since 1892. And, while the company that was the predecessor of the current A&F was founded then, for the current A&F to claim that it's just as authentically American the original is rather like Edward Hyde claiming to be just as authentically good as Dr. Henry Jeykll.

Founded in 1892, Abercrombie & Fitch started life as a sporting goods store specializing in gear that by its nature had to perform well--or else its owner could end up dead. Abercrombie & Fitch outfitted Charles Lindbergh for his solo flight across the Atlantic (and in the process produced a wonderful A1 jacket!), Teddy Roosevelt for his hunting trips, and Ernest Hemingway with fishing equipment, various items of manly outdoor clothing--and the shotgun that he used to kill himself.

By 1977, the company was in bankruptcy, and in 1978 it was purchased by a Houston-based sporting goods firm that intended to continue its august heritage. Unfortunately, there clearly was a reason for the demise of Abercrombie & Fitch in 1977, and the firm was again sold in 1988, to the The Limited. This fashion-orientated clothing firm that made the once-great clothing company a cash cow of cheap and fashionable teenage clothing.

A good indication of the difference between the current A&F and the original can be seen in the fact that in 1927 the company patented a new form of telescopic sight mounting for rifles, while in 2011 it patented a new type of flower topped perfume bottle.

THIS jacket dates from the era when it was still a leading purveyor of first-class clothing that was built to last. This is cut from extremely soft and luxurious cashmere at a time when cashmere really was a special fabric. (Old-style cashmere is very different from the cheap mall cashmere that's so prevalent today.) Both the hand and drape of this fabric are lovely!

The jacket is cut as a three button sack, with the ever-desirable three patch pockets. The lapels are beautifully narrow, as is proper for a mid-century jacket, and it has two button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single center vent. It has lovely natural shoulders. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and carries the classic green-on-black Abercrombie & Fitch label.

This jacket does have two minor flaws, neither of which are very noticeable. First, there is a small snag on the lapel; this can hardly be seen, and would be a very easy repair to make for a competent reweaver. Second, there is some slight mars near the right-hand hem, by the pocket, as shown--again, this can hardly be seen when the jacket is worn. Because of these, the jacket is in Very Good condition, and so is a bargain at just $59, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:


Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 30 1/2








2) Princeton University Store Silk Glen Plaid Jacket


Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly either all silk, or a silk-wool blend. Cut as a three button jacket with subtle darting this has four button cuffs and a single centre vent. Owing to its high silk content is has a lovely slubby texture which is well suited to the classic bold glen plaid patterning in black, slate grey, and cream, with forest green and golden sunset overchecking. This jacket was Made in the USA, and was originally sold at the Princeton University Store. This is in excellent condition (the interior label will be resewn before shipping) and is a bargain at just $29, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32








3) GRAIL! 1954 Southwick Tweed, made for The Andover Shop, Mass.!


This is a wonderful jacket, with a wonderful provenance!

The Andover Shop was founded in 1948 in Andover, Mass., with an eye to selling traditional American clothing to the clientele of nearby Philips Academy. (A second shop was opened in 1953, by Harvard--for obvious reasons.) They also make bespoke and offer MTM clothing--like this wonderful jacket, which was made by Southwick and completed on 21st October, 1954.

Despite being over 60 years old this jacket could easily pass as being one made in the 1990s, and carefully looked after. (Note that from my perspective a jacket made in the 1990s is something that's fairly recent!) It's in absolutely excellent condition--as you'd expect, since someone who buys bespoke at The Andover Shop is likely to be someone who cares about clothes, and looks after them; and well-made tweeds repay care with considerable longevity!

And this jacket is wonderful. The tweed is absolutely beautiful. At first sight, it appears to be a dark brown herringbone with vertical striping in rich dark chestnut. However, closer examination reveals that the tweed consists of herringbone striping with the differing diagonals both different lengths and separated by the vertical striping--a lovely, classic, yet rare tweed.

Cut as a sack--undarted--as you'd expect from The Andover Shop, this is not a 3/2 jacket. Instead, it has a three button front with just the HINT of a lapel roll at the top button. It has two button cuffs, period-correct narrow lapels, a lapped central seam down the back and a single hook vent. It has very natural shoulders. It is half-canvassed and fully lined in a beautiful yellow lining with red and Royal blue neats. It was, of course, Made in the USA.

Asking just $65, or offer--a steal for a jacket of this beauty, quality, and with this provenance!

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 32 1/2











4) MADE IN ITALY wool and cashmere jacket.

Cut from a lovely golden-wheat barleycorn cloth, this jacket is a blend of 80% wool and 20% cashmere. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has a three button front with subtle darts, and is unvented, in Flusser approved style. Made in Italy, and in excellent condition.

Just $29, or offer.

Tagged 40S. Measurements:


Chest: 21
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/8
Length: 29








[B5) VINTAGE Autumnal Jacket by Fred. Donnelly, of Trenton--when Trenton was good![/B]

This jacket was originally sold by Fred. Donnelly, of Trenton--back when Trenton was FAR wealthier and WASP than its neighbour, Princeton. F.W. Donnelly was THE exclusive men's haberdashers, and considered itself to cater to a far more sophisticated and worldly clientele that their Princeton rivals, such as Langrock or The English Shop, with their reliance on undergraduates and academics. Donnelly's catered to the political elite of New Jersey--indeed, Frederick Donnelly, the owner of Donnelly's, was mayor of Trenton for 20 years, from 1911 to 1931.

This jacket is a lovely example of the wares purveyed to Trenton's political elite. Dating from the 1960s this is cut as a two button jacket with subtle darts from lovely autumnal cloth with overchecking. This has two button cuffs and a single center vents; it also features lovely narrow lapels. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and was, of course, Union Made in teh USA. It is in excellent condition, and a steal at just $29, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 33 1/2








6) CLASSIC HARRIS TWEED!

A lovely, classic Harris Tweed in brokenbone herringbone, this has a base fo slate grey, with vertical striping in burnished chestnut, bracken, and light tan. This is a current two button front model with subtle darting; it features three button cuffs and a single center vent. All of the buttons are the classic leather covered metal shanked football buttons that pair perfectly with Harris Tweed.

This jacket was Union Made in the USA. It has some minor rubbing by the edge of the interior pocket, as shown, and so is in Very Good/Excellent condition.

Asking just $32, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30








7) GORGEOUS Turnbull & Asser Hacking Jacket in CASHMERE and wool.

This is absolutely wonderful! Made by Turnbull & Asser, one of the premier Jermyn Street clothiers in London, the cloth of this beautiful jacket is 95% wool and 5% cashmere, giving it a lovely soft hand and a wonderful drape. The colourway does full justice to the cloth, being a wonderful puppytooth in a medley of autumnal browns. The jacket is cut as a traditional English sporting jacket, with a fully functional ticket pocket, twin vents, and working surgeons' cuffs. It is fully canvassed, and fully lined.

This beautiful jacket is in absolutely excellent condition; the top breast pocket is still uncut, as it the lower buttonhole on each cuff. The quality of jacket is absolutely superb, as befits its Turnbull and Asser origins, and so this is an absolutely steal at just $49, or offer.

Tagged 42L. Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 32









8) BEAUTIFUL VINTAGE Lighter-weight Shepherd's Check Jacket--Two Button Sack!

This is absolutely lovely--a wonderful vintage 1960s jacket in lighter-weight wool, originally sold by "Cruise Casuals" of Miami, FL (founded in 1962). The cut of this jacket is beautifully 1960s, being a rare two-button sack with a lovely roll to its elegantly narrow lapels. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has the shallow twin vent that was becoming popular in the 1960s with the British Invasion of Beatles-inspired style. The colourway and patterning are also wonderful--a classic black and white shepherd's check with a bold berry red overcheck.

This jacket is cut from a lighter-weight wool--it was, after all, designed to be worn casually (when that word meant something different than it does today!) in Florida, or on cruises when the breeze became brick at night. It was Union made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer--which really is a bargain for this vintage beauty!

Measurements:


Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 28 3/4








9) LARGE Zegna Jacket--Made in Switzerland

This is lovely! Cut from beautifully soft dove grey wool with overchecking in cream and grey, this is fully canvassed and fully lined. It has lovely pick-stitching on the lapels. Cut as a contemporary two button jacket with darting, this is unvented, in Flusser-approved fashion. It is in absolutely excellent condition. Made in Switzerland.

Asking just $45, or offer.

Tagged 60EU (50US), this measures:

Chest: 23 3/4
Sleeve: 27 3/4 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20 1/2
Length: 34 1/4








10) Winter Plaid Jacket, designed by Hardy Amies of London.

Originally sold by Briggs of Providence--the upscale clothier for all of Rhode Island--this lovely heavy winter plaid jacket is a medly of slate-blue, browns, and creams. It is a current two button jacket with darting and twin vents. The buttons are all leather-clad metal-shanked football buttons. It features two hacking pockets--true to its British heritage, like the twin vent--and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has some minor loose stitching in the lining, and so is in Very Good/Excellent condition. It was Union made in the USA.

Asking just $29, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 24 3/4








11) BEAUTIFUL Zegna Velvet Blazer. LIKELY UNWORN.

This is in absolutely excellent condition--my pictures don't do it justice at all! All cotton, as you'd expect of a velvet blazer, this is a two-button model with darting. It has four button cuffs, twin vents, and plenty of pick stitching in the lining and on the lapels. It appears to be half-canvassed, and it is fully lined. This jacket also appears to be unworn; all of the exterior pockets are basted shut, and it is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer.

Tagged EU52R (US 42R), this measures:


Chest: 20 (remember, Zegna Z is cut slim)
Sleeve: 26 1/8
Shoulder: 18 1/8
Length: 30 1/2









12) BEAUTIFUL and RARE Plaid Harris Tweed Jacket in superb condition!


This is absolutely wonderful--and extremely rare! Muted plaid Harris Tweeds are extremely rare, and this is an absolutely wonderful example. being a beautiful medley of autumnal earth tones, in chestnut, conker, bracken, and slate. My pictures really do NOT do this gorgeous tweed justice at all!

This jacket is a contemporary two-button model with a single centre vent and a full lining. It is in absolutely superb condition; I believe that it has never been worn, as the basting thread in the front pockets is still present, although it has been cut for use. This jacket was made by Jos. A. Banks--although you'd never be able to tell this from its beauty!

Asking just $35

Tagged 48R. Measurements:


Chest: 24 3/4
Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 22
Length: 31 1/2






13) Classic Grey Herringbone Tweed by GANT--with PATCH POCKETS!

RARE SMALLER SIZE!

This is a lovely classic grey herringbone tweed--a staple of the classic wardrobe! Union made in the USA, this is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts. It features the ever-desirable patch pockets, as well as leather-covered and metal-shanked buttons. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a single centre vent. It's in excellent condition, apart from slight rumpling from storage which will come out easily with steaming or hanging, and a bargain at just

$29, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 19
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 1/4
Length: 31





14) STUNNING Black Stewart Tartan Jacket from Dunn & Co. MADE IN BRITAIN

It really doesn't get much nicer than this! Cut from beautiful woolen cloth in the authentic Scottish tartan of Black Stewart, this jacket is absolutely perfect for holiday events, not the least because Black Stewart is traditionally a more formal tartan, and one that is becoming increasingly hard to find.

This could be worn casually or formally, with tuxedo trousers, formal dress, shirt, and a bow.

This jacket was made in Great Britain by Dunn & Co., the highly respected tailoring firm that are best known or their extremely well cut, extremely sturdy, and extremely traditional Harris Tweeds. (Indeed, in the 1950s and 1960s part of the rite of passage of becoming a successful American academic was to secure a visiting position at Oxford, Cambridge, Edinburgh, or St Andrews, and while there acquire a Dunn & Co. tweed!) The tailoring of this jacket is impeccable, living up to their excellent reputation. It is a traditional two button closure with subtle darts; fully canvassed, and fully lined. It has twin vents, as befits its British heritage. All of the buttons are brass, featuring a thistle motif--appropriately enough given the tartan from which this is cut! This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition--indeed, it was freshly dry cleaned and then stored in a cedar closet, so it's ready to wear.

Asking just $40, or offer.

Tagged 100XL, which translates to 39L. Measurements:


Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/8 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 32










15) VINTAGE Haggar Tweed with PATCH POCKETS!

SMALLER SIZE!

Normally, I don't bother with Haggar items; frankly, they're just not worth it. But this lovely VINTAGE Haggar is a different matter entirely! Just as vintage JCPenney can give current Brooks a run for its money, and a vintage Sears Hercules leather jacket is highly desirable while their current offerings are, well, not, this lovely vintage jacket is far superior to the current Haggar line.

Cut from a lovely basketweave tweed in a medly of browns, creams, and lichen greens, that's fairly lightweight, this jacket is half-lined and features patch pockets. It has a single centre vent, a two button front, and three button cuffs. It also has a lovely vintage Haggar label! It was of course, Made in the USA.

This is in Very Good condition--there's no flaws, but I'm cautious with vintage items, and it could use a dry clean to freshen it up. As such, it's a bargain at $25, or offer.

Tagged 38--but recall that this is a VINTAGE 38!. Measurements:


Chest: 19 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 17 1/8
Length: 29 1/2








16) BEAUTIFUL Barleycorn-esque tweed with vertical striping!

At first, I thought that this was clearly a Harris tweed--the colourway, patterning, heft and slight hariness as indicated Harris! But, it's not marked as such, as so it seems that it's not--although the quality of the cloth certainly rivals (and even exceeds) that of most Harris being produced today.

Despite not being Harris this tweed is wonderful! It's a lovely complex weave that's similar to barleycorn, although considerably more heathery. It features very subtle vertical striping in chestnut and sky blue, which are also heathered into the base tones of the jacket. There is also flecking of light pale lichen green.

The jacket itself is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts; it has three button cuffs. All of the buttons are leather-covered and metal shanked. The jacket appears to be half-canvassed, and is half-lined; it has a single centre vent. It's in excellent condition, except for a tiny weave fault in the crease where the sleeve joins the shoulder. This is very close to the seam, and so cannot be seen when worn; indeed,it can only really be seen when the sleeve is placed vertically above the jacket--a stance you'll never be in unless you're an acrobat and intend to wear this jacket while performing. (I found it when measuring, which is when the sleeves are moved upwards in this unnatural way.) You'll likely have never found this flaw, but it is there, and so this is in very Good/Excellent condition--and a steal at just $25, or offer.

This is a bargain for a jacket like this!

Measurements:


Chest: 20
Sleeve: 25 1/2
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30








17) PURE CASHMERE Tweed Jacket in RARE LARGER SIZE! Made in Italy.

Cut from pure cashmere in light brown broken bone herringbone--and so exceptionally soft and luxurious--this lovely jacket is a contemporary three button front model with darting. It has twin vents, is half-canvassed and fully lined, and was Made in Italy. It features kissing buttons on the sleeves. It has some loose stitching in the lining at one vent, but this will be re[paired before shipping. Otherwise, it is in excellent condition--the two front pockets are still basted shut!

Asking just $30, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 25 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 21 1/4
Length: 32





 

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