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Mod to Suedehead - Page 1606

post #24076 of 24897

Apologies for abusing the thread for a private request. I'm strongly considering moving from London to Manchester, seeing as living in London is no longer feasible below a certain wage bracket, and I'd kind of like to raise kids some time. Manchester ain't London, but I hear it still resembles civilisation ;)

 

If you're from the Greater Manchester area and still have any links to the local skinhead/soul/reggae scenes, however tenuous, could you PM me with pointers? Vintage clobber store recommendations also much appreciated.

 

Furthermore, if you could point me to sources where I can read up on local bootboy history, read anecdotes from 'back in the day', and see some old photos of Manc skinheads, that'd be great.

 

In fact, I used the Styleforum search engine, but pictures of Mancunian originals seem to be far and few between. Smoothies and bootboys? Yes. Twisted Wheel and northern soul? Ditto. Skins from up north generally? Check. But no pictures of Manc skins from 1968-70.

 

I want to develop a hunger for that place, and being aware of local history plays a big role for me.

 

Cheers!


Edited by Bela Kun - 8/24/16 at 2:04am
post #24077 of 24897
Good luck with the move .
As far as I know the only Londoner who truly settled in rainy old Manchestet was Mike Baldwin in Coronation Street
post #24078 of 24897
Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post

The closest it gets to a 'skinhead suit' jacket

fox-hunting_3372949b.jpg

3 buttons, high buttoning point/narrow lapels, centre vent, slanted pockets, nipped waist, long skirt. Pure English equestrian - not a single drop of 'Ivy' about it.

(wholly gratuitous shot follows)

ASJ-thumb.jpg

So remove English worker, English equestrian, English sportsman and English city gent from the look and what is left - some shoes and shirts (that derive from the above anyway)!

This leaves jeans, staprest and ma1 as the exotic foreign introductions - items which seem to form the basis of the whole early 80s look too often mindlessly derided on here as 'bonehead'. The adoption of these items as a basic look perhaps being the sign of an organic search for the essential form of skinhead in early 80s England? The things that no one else had? In hindsight it does feel that way, in particular the differentiation of the 1982 onwards skinhead look from the earlier (and by then dead) 2Tone look of harringtons and crombies.

Thought-provoking as ever, cov.  On a day when temps are due to hit 89F in SE England, your pictures make me long for autumn.

 

I do want to take issue with the suit jacket proposition - at least where the late 60s are concerned.  My first two MTM suit jackets (1967 and 68) were indeed very close in style and cut to the traditional hunting coat. As the late 60’s wore on and the skinhead look became more crystallised, the suit jacket cut become closer and closer to the American sack style - still with three buttons and slanted packet flaps but with a looser cut, shorter body and centre vent replacing the double vents.  My friend had an American Madras jacket from JS in 1970 and by then there was little difference between the cut of that and the cut of our Burtons / Hepworth’s MTM stuff.

 

As I have said before, by the time my formal skinhead style reached its most ‘complete’ in AW 1969/70 (and just at the very moment of the death of the look) it drew fairly equally on Continental, English and US influences.  For example, I might wear a black and white MTM dogtooth suit that had a cut somewhere between the English and US styles but a very English cloth.  I wore it with a white OCBD (or a normal spread collar shirt) and paisley or striped silk tie and Royals or loafers.  In cooler weather an M&S botany wool v neck was added and a stone colour fly fronted mac.

 

Moving on to the early 80s my wardrobe had many similarities to that which I had enjoyed 12 or so years before and indeed throughout the 80s the man ITK could source pieces from Woodhouse and elsewhere that kept the Look more or less alive.  Is this an M to S debate or Look Goes On I wonder?

 

PS I should have spoilered the pics but they were too nice!


Edited by Mr Knightley - 8/24/16 at 7:16am
post #24079 of 24897
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinny legs View Post

Good luck with the move .
As far as I know the only Londoner who truly settled in rainy old Manchestet was Mike Baldwin in Coronation Street

Many are leaving for Manchester and other cities, and there'll be many more if gentrification continues at this rate. I'm not that original, I'm afraid ;)

 

Anyway, there's such a dearth of Manchester skinhead photos on the web (from both the original and revival periods), one almost starts to wonder if skinheads existed in Manc. It's surprising, really: there are eyewitness reports of thousands of skins at Manchester City FC matches circa 1970 - but no pictures.

 

Covskin: I'm not a fan of the 'bonehead' look from 1982 onward (tight jeans, MA-1, high boots, bald heads), but I do like the 'casual' influence that crept in during the 80s. E.g. the jumper worn by the guy sitting behind his Skinheads banner that I recently posted. Also, Lyle & Scott and Pringle v neck jumpers, etc. I like mixing some of these element with more 'trad' gear.

post #24080 of 24897

I'm sorry that this isn't about fashion but does anyone have any of the media headlines from 69 after the hippie bands played in Hyde Park and Southsea where "skinheads rioted?"

post #24081 of 24897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post
 

Thought-provoking as ever, cov.  On a day when temps are due to hit 89F in SE England, your pictures make me long for autumn.

 

I do want to take issue with the suit jacket proposition - at least where the late 60s are concerned.  My first two MTM suit jackets (1967 and 68) were indeed very close in style and cut to the traditional hunting coat. As the late 60’s wore on and the skinhead look became more crystallised, the suit jacket cut become closer and closer to the American sack style - still with three buttons and slanted packet flaps but with a looser cut, shorter body and centre vent replacing the double vents.  My friend had an American Madras jacket from JS in 1970 and by then there was little difference between the cut of that and the cut of our Burtons / Hepworth’s MTM stuff.

 

As I have said before, by the time my formal skinhead style reached its most ‘complete’ in AW 1969/70 (and just at the very moment of the death of the look) it drew fairly equally on Continental, English and US influences.  For example, I might wear a black and white MTM dogtooth suit that had a cut somewhere between the English and US styles but a very English cloth.  I wore it with a white OCBD (or a normal spread collar shirt) and paisley or striped silk tie and Royals or loafers.  In cooler weather an M&S botany wool v neck was added and a stone colour fly fronted mac.

 

Moving on to the early 80s my wardrobe had many similarities to that which I had enjoyed 12 or so years before and indeed throughout the 80s the man ITK could source pieces from Woodhouse and elsewhere that kept the Look more or less alive.  Is this an M to S debate or Look Goes On I wonder?

 

PS I should have spoilered the pics but they were too nice!

 

Spot on for many originals. And don't forget that John Simons opened up his shop in Covent Garden in the 80's which was a life saver for many of us Ivy boys living and working in London.

post #24082 of 24897

Got these for a bargain, look like the old 1465 boots, popular with police?.

 

post #24083 of 24897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Carlson View Post

I'm sorry that this isn't about fashion but does anyone have any of the media headlines from 69 after the hippie bands played in Hyde Park and Southsea where "skinheads rioted?"

I was there for the Rolling Stones gig and one or two others, sometimes by myself and sometimes with other skins - too few of us to 'riot', we mainly hung around the periphery, even listened to the music. I did hear that other (larger?) bunches did (ahem!) indulge in high jinks, but I never saw it happen.
post #24084 of 24897
Does anyone know where I can pick up a surfer/monkey/bomber jacket to the following specifications:

1. Red (Burgundy is an acceptable alternative)

2. No piping on cuffs and collar (unless I have absolutely no choice in the matter).

3. Absolutely no pilot pockets on the sleeve.

4. non-zip side pockets.

5. No inner whatjamacallit on the zip (i.e. not like an MA-1 jacket has)

Thanks.
post #24085 of 24897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man-of-Mystery View Post

Does anyone know where I can pick up a surfer/monkey/bomber jacket to the following specifications:

1. Red (Burgundy is an acceptable alternative)

2. No piping on cuffs and collar (unless I have absolutely no choice in the matter).

3. Absolutely no pilot pockets on the sleeve.

4. non-zip side pockets.

5. No inner whatjamacallit on the zip (i.e. not like an MA-1 jacket has)

Thanks.


Something like this?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pierre-Cardin-Gents-Mens-Bomber-Jacket-Long-Sleeve-Zip-Coat-Top-Light-Weight-/201591871972?var=500807250181&hash=item2eefcfd9e4:g:3X4AAOSwoJZXRwqW

 

theres this too

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Topman-Red-Claret-Bomber-Jacket-Coat-Size-Small-Monkey-Jacket-Mod-Weller-/162180611159?hash=item25c2b7bc57:g:1fYAAOSw6n5XvyhF

 

 

plus this, but the front has extra stitching

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mens-Bomber-Spring-Jacket-Coat-Lightweight-Black-Wine-Blue-S-M-L-XL-2XL-3XL-/351806664468?var=620714485671&hash=item51e94faf14:g:oSkAAOSwHoFXqxCf

 

more, but secondhand

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mens-CASANOVA-bomber-harrington-baseball-jacket-size-L-chest-uk-42-made-Finland-/331924508646?hash=item4d483e0fe6:g:~pMAAOSwjXRXYrDm

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hugo-Boss-Mens-Bomber-Jacket-Size-43-Large-Red-/152206561429?hash=item237037d095:g:IfUAAOSwawpXsdCl


Edited by Donkey Jacket - 8/26/16 at 4:56am
post #24086 of 24897
Thanks DJ. The Casanova looks about right. I would have preferred black cuffs/collar, but I forgot to put that in my requirements, dopey git that I am!
post #24087 of 24897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donkey Jacket View Post

Got these for a bargain, look like the old 1465 boots, popular with police?.





Interesting. What make are they ? (Apparently not an Air Wair Heel tag.)
post #24088 of 24897
post #24089 of 24897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post
 

They are solovairs, they dont produce them anymore but there is a few pairs available brand new on uk ebay.

post #24090 of 24897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donkey Jacket View Post

They are solovairs, they dont produce them anymore but there is a few pairs available brand new on uk ebay.

They don't make Solovair anymore?!! Too bad, they done some great boots. Understated. RIP
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