Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Can A tailor fix a pair of pants that have a "frog mouth" pocket? You know when it doesn't lay flat.

Can a tailor do anything to keep sleeves from raising half way up my arms when I stretch out to conduct?

I'm a broke grad student and teacher who's trying to get into thrifting but I don't want to buy something I can't get fixed up.

Does anyone know anything about Gant shoes? Who makes the Pittsfield in particular?

I was thinking of getting a made to measure jacket in linen. But what do people think about this 'grape' sort of color? I Like it but I'm not sure it will be suitable for wearing to work (where a sportcoat & tie are the dress code). What do the SF people think?

That's blue on my monitor. Grape is more purple.

I like it. No idea if you can get away with it.

Hi everyone, first post here. Quick question regarding Bexley shoe trees. I wear a UK9 for C&J and UK 9.5 for G &G. I'm thinking of buying some shoe trees from Bexley but they only stock UK 8.5 and UK 9.5, no UK 9's. Which size should I buy? Thanks!

Argh. Been browsing the WAYWT lately.

Where the hell does everybody get their double-monk/single-monk straps?

Originally Posted by wannabe

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Argh. Been browsing the WAYWT lately.

Where the hell does everybody get their double-monk/single-monk straps?

There is a whole thread on it.

Originally Posted by wannabe

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Argh. Been browsing the WAYWT lately.

Where the hell does everybody get their double-monk/single-monk straps?

try this.

or the Armoury

or Howard Yount

-TTO

ps, I think -DieWorkWear- did a blog series on double monks at various price points?

Originally Posted by SartorialConductor

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Can A tailor fix a pair of pants that have a "frog mouth" pocket? You know when it doesn't lay flat.


I don't think you know what a 'frog mouth' pocket is; it is a completely different style of pocket and has nothing to do it not laying flat or not.

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

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I don't think you know what a 'frog mouth' pocket is; it is a completely different style of pocket and has nothing to do it not laying flat or not.
Alright I'm an idiot. Any answers though? So far answers are less plentiful here than comments telling guys how wrong they are. I hopefully someday I will be in the cool club...

Originally Posted by SartorialConductor

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Alright I'm an idiot. Any answers though? So far answers are less plentiful here than comments telling guys how wrong they are. I hopefully someday I will be in the cool club...
I think what you're referring to is a phenomenon that occurs when the pants are too tight below the waist in your hip area. The tailor has two options. 1. Let out the pants, which is usually not an option unless there's additional material to do so. 2. Rebuild the pocket with a different opening angle, which also may not be possible if there is not enough material. Try going up a size, then having the tailor take in the waist so it fits properly on your hips. Also consider pleats for future purchases as pleated pants generally have more room in the hip area.

Originally Posted by SartorialConductor

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Can a tailor do anything to keep sleeves from raising half way up my arms when I stretch out to conduct?
Sleeves of shirt or coat? If it's a coat then you need higher armholes; this can be an alteration on certain RTW items but the cost can vary dramatically. It it's a shirt then you need longer sleeves.

Originally Posted by Kenneth Cole Haan

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I was thinking of getting a made to measure jacket in linen. But what do people think about this 'grape' sort of color? I Like it but I'm not sure it will be suitable for wearing to work (where a sportcoat & tie are the dress code). What do the SF people think?

Definitely not grape to my mind, but the colour works, especially in hot weather when you'll be wearing linen. To reduce the costumey effect pair it with subdued pants and a simple tie.

Originally Posted by Trapp

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Can anyone help me identify the two main materials on this jacket (both the lining and navy exterior)? It's by a swiss company called Strellson. The contrast collar is corduroy. I'd like to ID the other materials because I like them and hope to find other outwear made from the same stuff. The navy seems like canvas but with a softer hand.
It's impossible to say without physical examination, but I'd bet the exterior is a cotton canvas and the lining looks synthetic.

Originally Posted by Kenneth Cole Haan

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What is the quality/price ratio on this Brooks Brothers summer sportcoat?

It's imported, half canvas, silk/linen/cotton blend.

$400

Looks nice, and even the imported BB sport coats are usually pretty serviceable. Only hesitation I would have is I don't see the %s of each for the blend. This could indicate BB doesn't know, in which case I would question their oversight and quality control.

Originally Posted by bringusingoodale

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The cleaners shrunk my linen jacket. What can be done? When I took the jacket to my tailor, he suggested I go back to the cleaner and ask them to use vapor to try and stretch out the sleeves, which is where I notice the shrinking. Is this pointless? Can linen/cotton "restretch"?

I've never heard of being able to "restretch" linen, and to be able to "restretch" it in exactly the correct proportions sounds nigh impossible. What were the care instructions on the tag? Does it appear the cleaners disregarded the instructions?

Staying in London for a week for work and am looking to buy a pair of Loake Burford's. Any ideas where I can pick them up? If it helps I am staying on Liverpool St.

Originally Posted by harvey_birdman

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I think what you're referring to is a phenomenon that occurs when the pants are too tight below the waist in your hip area. The tailor has two options. 1. Let out the pants, which is usually not an option unless there's additional material to do so. 2. Rebuild the pocket with a different opening angle, which also may not be possible if there is not enough material. Try going up a size, then having the tailor take in the waist so it fits properly on your hips. Also consider pleats for future purchases as pleated pants generally have more room in the hip area. Sleeves of shirt or coat? If it's a coat then you need higher armholes; this can be an alteration on certain RTW items but the cost can vary dramatically. It it's a shirt then you need longer sleeves. Definitely not grape to my mind, but the colour works, especially in hot weather when you'll be wearing linen. To reduce the costumey effect pair it with subdued pants and a simple tie. It's impossible to say without physical examination, but I'd bet the exterior is a cotton canvas and the lining looks synthetic.
Great advice. I think I will just head to a tailor and ask. New town so hopefully I can find a nice,reasonable tailor. And yes it's a coat. Oh and I've tried pleats and looks I'm smuggling a melon. Haha not a good look.

what shoes are these