Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Mr. Pink]

I read some positive comments about Minnis QZ when it became available and I have a couple of swatches that seem quite nice. I'm wondering if anyone has had anything made up in it.

 

[kolecho]



That turned out great, Rob! And you were absolutely right about the horizontal's showing up better made up.

Agreed that it looks very nice compared to the earlier scan. Pert of the reason could be that we look or photograph cloths lying horizontal. Cloth patterns look very different when held vertically.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



I read some positive comments about Minnis QZ when it became available and I have a couple of swatches that seem quite nice. I'm wondering if anyone has had anything made up in it.

I have the windowpane from the QZ collection. Its quite nice, but frankly not worth the upcharge when compared to the Lesser 11oz. or Blue Riband.

 

[Lovelace]

cloth experts:
This fabric, from one description I've heard, is called "Diamond Jacquard". Is this an accurate description?

Craig's jacket looks a little tight to me, but it's the fabric that I like.
I'm looking at having a tuxedo jacket made for streetwear purposes (yes, I will wear it over a white tshirt and black jeans, you may commence mindsplode). I used to have one that was midnight cotton canvas with silk lapels, but I spent too much time in the gym and have outgrown it.
The reason I like this fabric is that it's got enough texture to break a little away from the minimalist appeal of a tux jacket. I would like it a little less shiny, but that's probably because of the camera flash.
Is this fabric often available at tailoring houses?
Are there other, similar fabrics I could look at for such a commission? One that's a touch more subtle would be cool.

Scabal have a Formal book that has many Jacquard weaves. Typically made out of silk.

Their book is expensive, mind.

Holland & Sherry will also have them.

They make a nice change from the usual suspects like Barathea, Faille etc.

 

[dieworkwear]

All - may I get an opinion? I'm looking to have a shirt jacket made. Four pockets, Ghillie collar, inverted pleat back, with a set-in half-belt. I'm in between these two fabrics, however. They're both linen, but one is a true navy and the other is a bit more like a marine blue. Any opinion on which would be better? This would be worn with tan and grey colored trousers, and obviously only in the summer.

 

[RogerC]

I somehow find the lighter one more summery. Any pictures of what you would like the finished item to look like?

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

I like both, but I do prefer the marine blue.

 

[forex]

Dieworker, what book ate they from and how heavy? I would go with navy.

 

[Slewfoot]

Between the two for a Summer jacket I'd lean towards the marine blue. If you want to extend its wearing into Fall then the navy may be better.

I'm going to play devil's advocate though and say that a tobacco brown would perhaps the best option, at least for me. I just feel for something made up in that style that the color suits the vibe the best. Again, just me, but something to consider. I think W. Bill may have a 12oz linen that could work and tobacco brown could also be work year round.

 

[Longmorn]

I think the navy would be more versatile and look better in the form you're envisioning. The elegance of the darker color will balance against the informality of the unstructured shirt jacket. I think the marine blue would be better in a more structured garment.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

Good call by Slew. This is the tobacco:

 

[Longmorn]

^Agreed - the second swatch in the pic would be tremendous.

 

[hendrix]



I think the navy would be more versatile and look better in the form you're envisioning. The elegance of the darker color will balance against the informality of the unstructured shirt jacket. I think the marine blue would be better in a more structured garment.

this. IMO.

Scabal have a Formal book that has many Jacquard weaves. Typically made out of silk.
Their book is expensive, mind.
Holland & Sherry will also have them.
They make a nice change from the usual suspects like Barathea, Faille etc.

thanks. I'll have a look through the scabal book.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks, everyone. The feedback is appreciated.

I somehow find the lighter one more summery. Any pictures of what you would like the finished item to look like?

Only in my head, and I'm still toying with the details. I've been thinking I may swap out the Ghillie collar for something more pressed open, like the lapels on a single breasted jacket. Maybe something like Panico's safari jacket, but with non-bellowed top pockets.

Dieworker, what book ate they from and how heavy? I would go with navy.

I actually don't have the book. They're just swatches that Ascot Chang sent me. I enquired with NSM, and they wanted the price of a usual sport coat, which is too expensive for me. Chang wanted something much less. From the feel of it, however, I'd guess this is a 12/ 13oz linen.

Between the two for a Summer jacket I'd lean towards the marine blue. If you want to extend its wearing into Fall then the navy may be better.
I'm going to play devil's advocate though and say that a tobacco brown would perhaps the best option, at least for me. I just feel for something made up in that style that the color suits the vibe the best. Again, just me, but something to consider. I think W. Bill may have a 12oz linen that could work and tobacco brown could also be work year round.

That's a really great suggestion, Slew. Thanks. Unbelragazzo also suggested "oats linen," which I really liked, but was afraid I then couldn't wear it with light tan trousers. Tobacco is a good idea, though I'm getting a suit made in W Bill's 60154, which Grammton posted. 60135 could be really interesting. FWIW, this would only be worn in the summer. If this turns out to be useful, I think I may have two made up separately for fall and winter. Still, tobacco sounds great.

I think the navy would be more versatile and look better in the form you're envisioning. The elegance of the darker color will balance against the informality of the unstructured shirt jacket. I think the marine blue would be better in a more structured garment.

I was thinking the same. The marine blue seems much more summery to me, and I was partly inspired by the photo below, but was unsure if it's really a color best suited for sport coats and suits

Hm, so now three options to consider.

 

[mkarim]



Good call by Slew. This is the tobacco:

+1