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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1148

post #17206 of 19891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winot View Post

I'm going to cautiously put my head above the parapet and say that I not a big fan of Rangoon. I have two suits tailored by different houses from the original end run of Minnis Rangoon and I am not impressed with the way it drapes. Much worse than Airborne (which is lighter weight I think).

I bought the end lots of Rangoon and Airborne too ( They were less than GBP20/m back then!! ), I think I still have fews metres left. I have two Rangoon and two Airborne suits made, I would said Rangoon drape much much much better than the Airborne.
post #17207 of 19891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 


Just out of curiosity, who are you using in Shanghai? I used to live there, and still visit from time to time. There's a huge range of quality in bespoke tailoring there, all the way from the South Bund Fabric Market (crap) through to WW Chan, Ascot Chang etc.


Unfortunately I am not going to be in Shanghai to meet the tailor. I am using an online operation, VultureSuits is the Toronto based part. The tailor in charge in Shanghai is a “Mr. Hu”, if that helps. I was looking into Enzo custom clothier which has a location in New York, it does all work in Shanghai, but they have been most unresponsive. I looked into a number of other online operations, most of which were based out of Shanghai, but VultureSuits was the one that seemed most willing to do what I wanted. In my communications with them they have proven very knowledgeable, responsive, and willing to say what they find uncomfortable doing or what they are unable to do. Few reviews but it is a relatively small risk, and one I am willing to take.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Lawrence & Foster will make tweed caps from customer-supplied fabric. A half meter is required for one cap; just a little over that will make two.

http://lawrenceandfoster.co.uk/

Good to know. I'll contact them if my local options don't work out.

post #17208 of 19891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

None of which are in the standard books (esp. the dark blue)?

 

@SimonC Would also like to know this. Cheers!

post #17209 of 19891
Quote:
Originally Posted by computingboy91 View Post

@SimonC
 Would also like to know this. Cheers!

I had a look through the book at my tailors last week. Seems the 14/15oz pure wool Fresco is being phased out, they had a few swatches left in the book (including something that looked close to the navy blue I have) but they seem to be replacing the heavier pure wool with a Wool / Mohair blend.
post #17210 of 19891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishball View Post

I bought the end lots of Rangoon and Airborne too ( They were less than GBP20/m back then!! ), I think I still have fews metres left. I have two Rangoon and two Airborne suits made, I would said Rangoon drape much much much better than the Airborne.

I have a couple of suit lengths of this Rangoon left and can match that price - I'll list it in B&S when I get back later today.



post #17211 of 19891
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenjaminZeev View Post
 


Unfortunately I am not going to be in Shanghai to meet the tailor. I am using an online operation, VultureSuits is the Toronto based part. The tailor in charge in Shanghai is a “Mr. Hu”, if that helps.

 

Mr Who?

 

I'd be just slightly concerned that this "Mr Hu" is a generic name for whoever they can get to do the work cheapest on the day.

 

Anyway, best of luck.

post #17212 of 19891

Thanks @SimonC - that is interesting news. Do people have experience regarding heavier mohair fabrics? Is that warmer than pure wool?

 

14/15oz Fresco in a Wool/Mohair would be perfect if it is warm but wrinkle free

post #17213 of 19891
At that weight, I'd bet a wool/mohair (70/30 presumably) would be damn near bulletproof from a wrinkling perspective
post #17214 of 19891
The current book has wool/mohair, but at around 10oz.

I have one pair of trousers in the 15oz-- it's pretty scratchy stuff. If I were to get another, I'd need it lined in front.
post #17215 of 19891

Planning to commission a new suit and one of the VBC cloths caught my eye. It's the VBC perennial super 110's. Hesitating because I'm not sure if its 2x1 or 2x2 cloth. Can anyone with the knowledge confirm this for me? I wear through trousers really quickly with my overly sized thighs, always prefer the sturdier option. Thanks for any advice/inputs! 

post #17216 of 19891
Quote:
Originally Posted by fllick View Post

Planning to commission a new suit and one of the VBC cloths caught my eye. It's the VBC perennial super 110's. Hesitating because I'm not sure if its 2x1 or 2x2 cloth. Can anyone with the knowledge confirm this for me? I wear through trousers really quickly with my overly sized thighs, always prefer the sturdier option. Thanks for any advice/inputs! 

I had a VBC perennial s110 myself.

I believe it is a 2x1 twill.

However, the performance is good and I don't think it wears quick, obviously not as hard wearing then some English traditional stuff.
post #17217 of 19891
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I had a VBC perennial s110 myself.

I believe it is a 2x1 twill.

However, the performance is good and I don't think it wears quick, obviously not as hard wearing then some English traditional stuff.

My experience with VBC Perennial has been similar.
post #17218 of 19891
...
Edited by kolecho - 3/22/16 at 1:16am
post #17219 of 19891
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxfordDon View Post

Can anyone help me identify the specific fabric used by Fabio Attanasio for this navy blazer?

http://www.thebespokedudes.com/en/looks/642/blazer-edesim

He says it is a W Bill Shetland, but the images I can find on the Harrisons site don't really show much in the way of navy, let alone the pronounced twill that comes across in the images of Fabio's jacket.
Irish Donegals WB34629 plays in that sandbox a little bit. As does Shetland Tweeds WB12136 .
post #17220 of 19891

Anyone here (perhaps @dieworkwear or @gdl203 ) know if there was ever a herringbone fresco? 

 

Seems like it would be an obvious choice to add some subtle interest to CBD approved suiting. But I've looked all over and It doesn't seem that minnis have EVER made fresco herringbone fabric.

 

Anyone else interested if we tried to put something like that together in a dark blue or grey?

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