Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

apropos · Feb 19, 2010

Originally Posted by aj_del

Any suggestions for a cloth which looks like the one in this pic

The horizontal lines are blue while the vertical ones are lime green.

Alternatively suggest a cloth in a similar shade of brown which are only brown / green / pink windowpane but the windowpane should be bold.

I like this cloth but the windowpane is too subdued ..

[/IMG]
There are literally at least a dozen in the various Hardy bunches, have a look over at the Huddersfield Fine Worsteds site.

NewYorkIslander · Feb 19, 2010

Originally Posted by aj_del

Any suggestions for a cloth which looks like the one in this pic

The horizontal lines are blue while the vertical ones are lime green. Alternatively suggest a cloth in a similar shade of brown which are only brown / green / pink windowpane but the windowpane should be bold. I like this cloth but the windowpane is too subdued ..

[/IMG]
I am having one made up at Frank as we speak...saw the chest piece and its so beautiful...more of a burgundy brown with a purple windowpane. Its a Dormeuil from one of their sport books...not sure of the numbers. I also picked a H&S that was even more burgundy with a sky blue window, but they're sold out of it...

Also, the Dormeuil is more of a twill, not a herringbone

from this book

IndianBoyz · Feb 19, 2010

What a thread.

aj_del · Feb 19, 2010

Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger

I am having one made up at Frank as we speak...saw the chest piece and its so beautiful...more of a burgundy brown with a purple windowpane. Its a Dormeuil from one of their sport books...not sure of the numbers. I also picked a H&S that was even more burgundy with a sky blue window, but they're sold out of it...

Also, the Dormeuil is more of a twill, not a herringbone http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/IMG_0940.jpg from this book http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/IMG_0939.jpg
Thanks for the info. In the Dormeuil cloth you are getting, the windowpane is not bold enough for me. I will have a look at the book you have mentioned.

Originally Posted by apropos

There are literally at least a dozen in the various Hardy bunches, have a look over at the Huddersfield Fine Worsteds site.
Didnt check Hardy earlier since it is not available in India. Had a look and found a new (to me ) bunch called Sandringham which is made in Italy. The designs are much more interesting that the standard English designs. On the flip side if one is looking for Italian designs in a made in Italy cloth why not buy LP or Zegna cloths to start with ? Found a cashmere cloth which fulfills my requirements

Other very nice designs

Slewfoot · Feb 19, 2010

Originally Posted by aj_del

^^ Thanks for the explanation. I am given to understand that Harris Tweed also does the same and that is why it is a little unsuitable for the type of fitted SC that I prefer.

Any thoughts ? You are of the opinion that this enhances comfort while I think that it results in a less than perfect shape.

Of course it is possible that we might be talking about different things in the sense that your idea of "give" might be a lycra type cloth which will stretch for comfort but will regain its shape.

I think a lot of it depends on the fabric maker. Guys like Harrisons and Minnis will do a great job with whatever they use to make sure it retains as much shape as possible. The Moonbeam probably holds a bit less shape than some, but that seems more a function of its weight. I used to be much more in the hold-shape-at-all-costs camp. Now I'm 60% comfort and 40% hold-shape. At the end of the day comfort is just too important. My most comfortable garments are the ones I want to wear most.

kolecho · Feb 20, 2010

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Moonbeam is a dreamy fabric. It gives a lot and is therefore extremely comfortable. I've noticed mine has started to get a bit fuzzy, but I consider it part of the character making it seem more "wintry." I imagine different bolts and different weaves might perform slightly differently. I have 36509 right now: a bright navy blue with red overchecks.

I have seen a pretty baggy Moonbeam coat that has seen frequent use. It is a poor man's cashmere IMHO.

Cordwinder · Feb 20, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

Anyone know where I can source a bottle/hunter green twill Bemberg?

how much quantity you looking for? I'm in the textile trade in Japan.

Slewfoot · Feb 20, 2010

Originally Posted by kolecho

I have seen a pretty baggy Moonbeam coat that has seen frequent use. It is a poor man's cashmere IMHO.

One of the reasons why I bought it in the first place! :^) I imagine if the the tailoring is particularly soft the Moonbeam could eventually bag. It seems to demand a bit of structure especially in the canvas as the fabric itself is a bit on the flimsy side. Of course, I could be wrong on this.

edmorel · Feb 20, 2010

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

One of the reasons why I bought it in the first place! :^) I imagine if the the tailoring is particularly soft the Moonbeam could eventually bag. It seems to demand a bit of structure especially in the canvas as the fabric itself is a bit on the flimsy side. Of course, I could be wrong on this.

Don't have Moonbeam but have cashmere and the slouchiness is something I actually like and look for in sportcoats. I like to describe my coats as cardigans. Some more unfunded liabilities, a different gun club for you David:

Slewfoot · Feb 21, 2010

Originally Posted by edmorel

Don't have Moonbeam but have cashmere and the slouchiness is something I actually like and look for in sportcoats. I like to describe my coats as cardigans. Some more unfunded liabilities, a different gun club for you David:

Sounds like you need some Moonbeam! Funny you compare things to cardigans as I just met with an SF'er yesterday where I mentioned how my goal is to make all my jackets feel like sweaters in terms of comfort.

What are the fabrics you have there? The navy above the POW looks like your recent gray woolen flannel only in blue. I can't wait to have my Fox Flannel gray POW made up one of these days. Apparently it's a worsted, but it feels and looks like a woolen which I love.

edmorel · Feb 21, 2010

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Sounds like you need some Moonbeam! Funny you compare things to cardigans as I just met with an SF'er yesterday where I mentioned how my goal is to make all my jackets feel like sweaters in terms of comfort. What are the fabrics you have there? The navy above the POW looks like your recent gray woolen flannel only in blue. I can't wait to have my Fox Flannel gray POW made up one of these days. Apparently it's a worsted, but it feels and looks like a woolen which I love.
Top to bottom(in first pic) h&s slate blue herringbone halstead fresco woodhouse hopsack minnis brown PoW pimp gun club/plaid my pictures are horrible, the H&S is just remarkable. You have to see it in person

Slewfoot · Feb 21, 2010

Nice diversity. Enjoy the hopsack. Still looking for the one that really hits me as with the gun club style. Luckily I've been narrowing them down!

Insight · Feb 27, 2010

Is there a "Cloth 101" type thread? I'm trying to learn some of the basics (what is a woolen, worsted, fresco, etc). Is there a primer anywhere? Yes, I tried the SF search function before typing this.

M. Charles · Feb 27, 2010

Originally Posted by Insight

Is there a "Cloth 101" type thread? I'm trying to learn some of the basics (what is a woolen, worsted, fresco, etc). Is there a primer anywhere? Yes, I tried the SF search function before typing this.

Check out the Villarosa book. It has the best info on cloth of any book I've seen.

http://www.amazon.com/Elegant-Man-Co...7317641&sr=8-1

Insight · Feb 28, 2010

Originally Posted by M. Charles

Check out the Villarosa book. It has the best info on cloth of any book I've seen.

http://www.amazon.com/Elegant-Man-Co...7317641&sr=8-1

Thank you.

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

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