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The intricacies of english shoemakers

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
I'm a new member, so apologies if this is repetitive. I spent much of last fall in London and got to know some of the upper-end shoe dealers whose wares I had been buying for some time. It seems as if there are not too many original shoemakers left, and I'm wondering if the information I pieced together is accurate. The manager at Crockett & Jones informed me that they actually make the shoes for Cleverley and for New & Lingwood. Dunhill in New York sells Poulson & Scone, which is now owned by New & Lingwood, and their shoes are also made by Crockett (or so I was told). When I asked New & Lingwood about this, they said yes for the regular flight, but that Grenson made the better shoes. Edward Green makes the shoes for Wildsmith; I asked John Wildsmith about this and he didn't deny it. So that seems to leave Lobb, Grenson, Green, and Crockett making top-end shoes. I'd be interested in more (or more accurate) information.
post #2 of 4
If you do a search for these makers, plus add Alfred Sargent, Trickers, Church, and Cheaney, you'll basically have all the Northampton manufacturers covered. Who makes what for whom is an ongoing conversation on these boards, as relationships change over time. Retailers prefer the customer to stay ignorant of where they are sourcing their private-label goods. Most of the Wildsmith goods are not made by Green, but rather by C&J (I think). Only the most expensive models at Wildsmith are Green's. BTW, he is closing down, so had some good deals a month ago while I was in London, though the "Wildsmith" slipper/loafer (aka the Green Harrow) was only 20% off and still more expensive than at the Green shop in Burlington Arcade.
post #3 of 4
Quote:
If you do a search for these makers, plus add Alfred Sargent, Trickers, Church, and Cheaney, you'll basically have all the Northampton manufacturers covered. Who makes what for whom is an ongoing conversation on these boards, as relationships change over time. Retailers prefer the customer to stay ignorant of where they are sourcing their private-label goods. Most of the Wildsmith goods are not made by Green, but rather by C&J (I think). Only the most expensive models at Wildsmith are Green's. BTW, he is closing down, so had some good deals a month ago while I was in London, though the "Wildsmith" slipper/loafer (aka the Green Harrow) was only 20% off and still more expensive than at the Green shop in Burlington Arcade.
Church, Cheaney, King's: as far as I know there come from the same manufacturer
post #4 of 4
Quote:
The manager at Crockett & Jones informed me that they actually make the shoes for Cleverley and for New & Lingwood.  Dunhill in New York sells Poulson & Scone, which is now owned by New & Lingwood, and their shoes are also made by Crockett (or so I was told).  When I asked New & Lingwood about this, they said yes for the regular flight, but that Grenson made the better shoes.
Crockett & Jones makes the N & L line for New & Lingwood; Grenson makes a better line for N & L, now called St. James. At one time New & Lingwood seemed to own the Poulson & Scone name, it was the better line, and EG made those shoes for them. Now the Poulson & Scone name seems to be free of New & Lingwood; and Dunhill in New York sells them. I am not sure who makes them, but it is not EG. Cleverley sells two lines of ready-mades, some by Crockett and some by EG.
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