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Hidden Button Down Collars - comparisons/experiences

Andrew Ryan

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Nov 8, 2012
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These collars have been discussed - somewhat minimally - on the forums before, but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with them from custom makers - Proper Cloth, Jantzen, Ratio, MyTailor, et cetera. A comparison of the construction methods and overall effect of them would be incredibly useful. I myself haven't any experience with any of them yet, but do have a few test ones coming from Proper Cloth in a few weeks and will post regarding them. I highly doubt they'll pull me away from standard button down collars, but I do think they have potential use for "semi-formal" shirts - not full-on occasions, but say a night out where a crisp white shirt would be preferable, but going tieless. In those situations I shy away from my button downs and oxford cloths, but am always disappointed with any spread I've tried w/r/t maintaining a crisp look.
 

JLibourel

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Just one old man's opinion, but since going tie-less with a suit or jacket s inherently pretty casual, I remain skeptical of the need for anything that would ratchet up the formality over a button-down worn open-necked. I could understand your desire to prefer, say, broadcloth over oxford cloth in this context, however.
 

MengerFan

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My experience with the hidden buttons has been lose-lose. They don't look as good as a button collar without a tie, nor as good as a non-button collar with a tie. I sure liked the idea of being able to use the same shirts for business and leisure, but I will not be doing it again.
 

Andrew Ryan

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Yeah, I just went ahead with a button collar in a white fine twill w/ MOP buttons and FC's (I know, I know, BD + FC's, but I'm partial to them). Should do fine for such situations. I was also concerned that the 'hidden buttons' wouldn't be, well, quite hidden enough. Thanks for the feedback.
 

bbob2013

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Oct 17, 2013
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I had the same experience as MengerFan. I was looking for a style that offered the most versatility, but in the end I was disappointed. The shirts I had made up, pulled excessively where the collar attached to the body of the shirt, and just look weird.
The buttons however, were hidden and you couldn't see them, but it was obvious something was amiss. But of course YMMV, good luck!
 

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