The Look goes on...

covskin · Jun 24, 2014

^ depends on the shirt; long tails or hemmed straight.

covskin · Jun 24, 2014

^^ was there really a cologne called Moustache lol? My memory is of adverts for Blue Stratos, Denim and Hai Karate.

Another obvious thought, we do not do facial hair - the supposedly essential skinhead sideburns have always looked a completely ridiculous affectation to me.

cerneabbas · Jun 24, 2014

covskin said:
Had a thought today, obvious really, somewhere lots of blokes were wearing tweed jacket, tattersall shirt, trousers and brogues sort of outfits. Nice though it looked, it occurred to me that this was their casual - and I wondered is there really a place for any of this stuff when the look already does casual.

Just thinking in terms of function, every bloke needs a city/conservative business dress outfit (weddings, funerals, interviews) and a casual outfit. So a minimal place in the wardrobe is assured for city/conservative business dress but not so for the various casual looks - the city/conservative business dress look is complementary but the country look is competing. POW is a special case as a 'city check' but I would argue that dogtooth is on the borderline depending on colour.

Not sure where I am going with this - country items worn in a city way...? - the bloke that sticks in my mind wore black brogues and a grey tweed jacket.

I am intrigued by a pair of brogues the Herring Grassmere (made by Cheaney) it looks like a crossover of city and country styles to me,the longwing design is surely city but the pebbled leather in that mahogany colour is more like a country brogue.
If you check out the Barbour thread on Styleforum it seems to be mostly American city dwellers who want a fitted jacket to wear to the office,as has been said before the "Englsh country gent" image of Barbour is wanted but not the practical aspects of the jacket ( a bit like the 4x4 "Chelsea tractors" with spray on mud).
I agree with you about the sideburns,always made me think of greasy looking Teds,I watched 5 minutes ( more than enough for me ) of the film Awaydays on youtube on the weekend,it shows a group of skinhead /. bootboys waiting for the casual / scally gang outside a railway station,the bootboy leader had sideburns and he looked a complete berk IMO.

covskin · Jun 24, 2014

^ I must admit I find brogues very confusing with all the permutations of lacing, wing length, colour and texture. I understand the differences technically but struggle with the permutations aesthetically and seem to shift preferences fairly regularly.

Mr Knightley · Jun 24, 2014

covskin said:
^^ was there really a cologne called Moustache lol? My memory is of adverts for Blue Stratos, Denim and Hai Karate.

Another obvious thought, we do not do facial hair - the supposedly essential skinhead sideburns have always looked a completely ridiculous affectation to me.

I might do a little piece on the subject, but for now:

cerneabbas · Jun 24, 2014

Summer sales,have started in some shops,anyone seen anything worth a mention yet ?

covskin,you are thinking about a raincoat,John Lewis have over £80 off of the Barbour Sedgewick ( stone) full price.

Cheaney are having their sale,I was tempted by their Tenterden semi brogue derby in mahogany,but I am still looking for a plain shoe.

End clothing have some good reductions and a lot of interesting items including some brogues from Mark McNairy that are the bizzarest colours I have ever seen,shame as if they had been plain ( and not plain silver! ) they look nice shoes.

Mr Knightley · Jun 25, 2014

Quote:
Not had chance yet but keep getting bombarded with emails from Mr Porter and others. There are so many things I want but only a few that I really need and sales can often have the effect of skewing one’s priorities I think. So I tend to keep my head down. I do crave a stone coloured raincoat which is so versatile but has been absent from wardrobe since the late 90s. Until then I always had one, the best being an YSL unlined fly fronted one in the 80s which I had for many years until it just got a bit too shabby.... I expect I shall succumb though!

Mr Knightley · Jun 25, 2014

Quote:
We haven't really talked about grooming or fragrance as part of the Look as yet. Starting with grooming and hair - back in the late 60s hair was short and no dressing was required. I would get up in the morning wash my face and no. 2 crop in one go and just towel it dry. Very easy maintenance. Of course, bathing (or showering) were not as frequent then - perhaps two baths a week and a a strip wash the rest of the time - how things have changed! But, accepting the standards of the time I do recall a fastidiousness about grooming and cleanliness that came not from my parents but my peers. In terms of sideburns, I agree they looked wrong with very short hair but became an obvious choice with the longer hair of 1970 onwards. I dropped mine in the late 70s. By the mid 80s some guys working in very advanced shops like Browns were sporting them again and I decided to do the same. Now mine are longer than almost everyone around me, coming as they do to about the bottom of my ears. The right scent was important and so was the need to have something the other bloke hopefully didn't. So no Blue Stratos, Denim or Hai Karate for me - rather it was Monsieur de Givenchy, Eau Sauvage by Dior, Moustache de Rochas and M. Rochas as well as Brut (although that was becoming too popular by around 1968). Faberge did two lovely fragrances for men called Woodhue and Aphrodesia, both of which I had until they were discontinued. My then girlfriend favoured Balenciaga fragrances. Moving on to 1971 and 'essential oils' like patchouli became de rigueur. By the mid seventies Chanel's 'A Gentleman's cologne', YSL PH, YSL's Eau Libre, Hermes Equipage all figured in my fragrance collection. Now, there is much interest of course in niche fragrances from houses like Creed, Carthusia, Penhaligon's, etc . I still love scent and have over 40 fragrances including many classics like Jules from Dior, Atkinson's English Lavender and Caron's sublime 'Pour un Homme' but does the Look demand a particular grooming or frangrance regime?

cerneabbas · Jun 25, 2014

Mr Knightley said:
Quote: Yes I think that personal grooming is a very important part of the Look. I have always kept my hair short and I still do sides and back number 3,square at the back and a side parting,I shave every day,and shower at least once usually twice.

As a kid I remember being bought various "fragrances" at Christmas and birthdays,the first important one that I remember was Brut,then Aramis and Faberge West,later Xerius and Jazz,more recently various Hugo Boss and Eau Sauvage.

I do agree that in the 60s before most houses had showers,(and some only recently had indoor toilets) that bath nights were less frequent,strangely the smell of BO was also encountered less often than it is now,standards seem to have dropped in all aspects IMO.

Shower,shave,freshly ironed shirt,pressed trousers and polished shoes were a recquirement before leaving the house on a night out for me and still are.
Perhaps another thing that we might look at sometime is mens watches and jewellery ?.

covskin · Jun 25, 2014

Never really got into cologne. Parents got a shower put in in the early 80s and clean and soapy was good enough with maybe a splash of Brut 33. Been revisiting some 80s/90s ones recently but have only liked Chanel Egoiste. Creed Green Irish Tweed is favourite though - I may rotate these two after finishing current bottles (Bleu de Chanel, Creed Aventus). Back then I was a number 4 - never had it shorter! - but am now 8/6/4 to soften it up as I look a bit of a thug with a number 4 all over.

cerneabbas · Jun 25, 2014

covskin said:
Never really got into cologne. Parents got a shower put in in the early 80s and clean and soapy was good enough with maybe a splash of Brut 33. Been revisiting some 80s/90s ones recently but have only liked Chanel Egoiste. Creed Green Irish Tweed is favourite though - I may rotate these two after finishing current bottles (Bleu de Chanel, Creed Aventus). Back then I was a number 4 - never had it shorter! - but am now 8/6/4 to soften it up as I look a bit of a thug with a number 4 all over.

I actually razored my head on a couple of occasions,it soon grows,but now its just long enough to have a parting and lie flat,in weather like this I do miss running the flannel over face and head as Mr Knightley said.
I think if I had to choose one it would be Eau Sauvage by Dior,must have been about for years but it doesn't seem old fashioned,remember when all the older blokes used Old Spice ? I never see that about now.
One thing that I have always been a bit of a stickler for is clean finger nails,I think that it might be a bit of an OCD, I do get through a nailbrush in about a month,its also something I look for in other people,I cant stand dirty nails and its put me off a few girls in the past,maybe odd I will admit.

Does clean cut refer to the clothes or the person ? for me both and I think that's all part of the Look.

baggycasual · Jun 26, 2014

I will be driving one of these in a couple of weeks (Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV) but what should I wear with it? I don't want to disgrace the car!

covskin · Jun 26, 2014

^ safari suit. And an air hostess.

cerneabbas · Jun 26, 2014

baggycasual said:
I will be driving one of these in a couple of weeks (Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV) but what should I wear with it? I don't want to disgrace the car!

Blast from the past for me,in 1974 a mate of mine used to clean one of these for an army officer and it had the first cigarette lighter that I remember seeing in a car,lovely motor.

Hmm,what to wear ?,I always like shoes with supple soles when driving so maybe desert boots ?,cords and a nice polo shirt or rubber soled shoes,light weight wool trousers and a plain cotton shirt,maybe a BD.

Safari jackets a good shout but I haven't got one myself (or an air hostess),have a good time driving it .

Cleav · Jun 26, 2014

baggycasual said:
I will be driving one of these in a couple of weeks (Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV) but what should I wear with it? I don't want to disgrace the car!

Now we're talking! Unashamed no spoilers here, this baby needs seeing.... Proper car, been a member of the AROC for donkeys.... Wear what you like, they won't be looking at you old friend :slayer:

That said ignore the car here, but feel like this guy, look like him and drop this tune in the cassette and drive! oh happy days! [VIDEO][/VIDEO]

The Look goes on...

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