Where should I get my tuxedo?

gdl203 said:

This thread is on crack

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size 38R said:

as are others. so let the noobs learn. or better yet, take notes.

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marcodalondra said:

Yes I read it but I quoted it as neither I or any of you can say whether it has any foundation. What probably cause that statement in that book, is that wherever double vented were originated, italian really adopted them as it was a better solution for rounder back.

Now, you will not find this on the English only based pieces of individual reaserch like the Black Tie Guide, and some people that consider those sources as the only truth will not accept that no vent is not the best way to cut a dinner jacket that will actually be used at function. Again, the Duke of Windsor, during the 20s-50s period when he contributed a lot in establishing the change of dinner cloth from white tie to black tie, had all of his dinner jacket and suits double vented...

What is really true, is that many keep mentioning riding on horses, when riding coat were basically body coat (centrally vented), and later country jackets were still centrally vented.

A shaped jacket with no vent will not deal with a rounded back very well in movements and sitting down and vents help that. Bu many of you, some I am sure have not experience in attending black tie events, will continue just saying that is more traditional to have no vents and even get people to close jacket that were cut to be vented....

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ImTheGroom said:

If one unbuttons his jacket when seated, as one should with a single breasted jacket, the result, when it comes to wrinkling, is essentially the same as a double vent. This is why, generally, I prefer double vents in my double breasted jackets, as they remain closed at all times. BTG also mentions that double vented jackets are correct, and sufficiently formal. Thisis a simple matter of preference.

Double vents are not a valid solution to a large, or protruding, behind. This simply allows the skirt of the jacket to flare backward, causing the vents to gape in an undightky fashion. They are doubtless more comfortable, but so is a black cardigan; should we substitute this for a dinner jacket? Whether double vented or unvented, the jacket still needs to fit the body. Would you fit extra people in your car by leaving the doors slightly open?

And I have attended several Black Tie functions, both seated dinners and less formal events. If I hang my jacket afterward, the unvented tail returns to its proper shape easily, as do other unvented jackets made of natural materials.

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marcodalondra said:

Uuuuuu you went again from suggestion seeker to super expert and veteran black tie eventer in few months, impressive.

Aside of sarcasm, you did not understand my point. The jacket needs to be shaped with or without vents, this was not even in question, and when standing still the vents should therefore look closed. Bespoke jacket for rounder bottom while have the skirt/vents shaped accordingly.

The problem you have is with movement and sitting down when an unvented jacket back will ride up/ wrinkle, whilst the vented version will be able to fall flatter.

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loarbmhs said:

Here's my two cents re your tuxedo:

1. No vent -- It's the classic way to go.

2. Grosgrain -- Don't be afraid of it not being satin. Quite the contrary--celebrate it! The best Savile Row houses have a distinct preference for grosgrain--more understated than satin and looks less like rented tux.

3. Patent shoes -- You're 95% of the way there with the tux. Don't stop at the end. Get yourself a pair of classic, round toe, lace up patent shoes. You'll have them for the rest of your life, and will feel (quietly) self-assured when you look at everyone else's shoes where they're trying to pawn off work clothes for black tie.

The whole point is that everything is special and different about black tie--the tux, shirt, tie, cummerbund/vest, socks, shoes and cuff links/studs. Go all the way, my friend, and congratulations on the upcoming nuptials!

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