The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[rnguy001]

Stitch - Bjorn Jorg Gray?

 

[in stitches]

these guesses are awesome. i expected it to be a dead give-away, but these answers are amazing. never realized how many potential answers there could be.

all will be told at high noon today. or thereabouts.

nice IWC, elisiX!

 

[Dino944]

I'm thinking of buying my dad a watch for his birthday and after doing some minor research online, have narrowed the search down to an AP Royal Oak and a PP Calatrava. I'm somewhat stuck in a predicament, as I can't seem to choose between the two (I know next to nothing about watches but have heard that PP and AP make quality products). Any advice/suggestions regarding which would be more suitable for a 55-year old Asian male would be greatly appreciated.

Option 1:


Option 2:

Both are great brands. I think you need to consider your dad's lifestyle. A RO Chronograph is a chunkier sport watch, the Calatrava a relatively thin dressy piece. Does he go to lots of dress events, or is he more of a sports watch kind of guy? The Patek uses its own movement, which is very nicely finished, however I would never choose that particular watch case. There are other Calatrava case styles that are more sturdy, where the lugs are more integrated and a solid part of the case. The case you have shown, the lugs are just soldered on, and I've seen the same watch come back to an AD (so it can go to a because an owner accidentally hit the watch against a door frame and he broke the lug off from the case). I'm sure they just soldered it back on (either at the AD or if it went back to a Patek service center), but still that would annoy me to have a case with lugs so delicate that they can be broken off so easily. In fact, the salesman said for that reason alone, he usually tries to persuade people to choose a different model of Calatrava.

Also, the RO that you have shown a photo of, I believe is out of production. You can find pre-owned models without any difficulty, but the new model that replaced it is a bit larger and chunkier at 41mm. The movement in the RO Chronograph is beautifully finished to AP's standards, but they do not make it completely in house themselves. It is based on the F.Piguet 1185, which is also used by Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, and a few others. Still its generally used only by a few top watch brands. Not sure if you are considering new, pre-owned, only gold, or also steel. If you are considering a RO and it does not have to be a chronograph, perhaps consider their iconic RO 15202. They are available in steel or rose gold if you want a new one, or also yellow gold if you choose pre-owned. They use movement 2121 which is famous for being at one point the thinnest automatic movement, and for also being the only movement ever used by "The Big Three" (Patek, AP, and Vacheron). Its a very versatile piece, sporty enough to wear casually, but dressy enough to wear with a suit.

Both companies have made and continue to make great watches. There are many options depending on if you choose new or pre-owned. You just have to figure out what will be best for your dad. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

 

[MZhammer]

Love this new watch...

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/daniel-malchert-introduces-his-own-watch-born-in-germany

Seems pretty pricey for something that isn't far removed from a Nomos.

I'm with you, Nomos movement, very similar cases, Bauhaus-like design (same style subdial even)... I'll give you that the second hand is very stylish but all in all I'll take the Nomos any day.

 

[in stitches]

excellent points, dino. as always.

the RO 15202 in rose gold is gorgeous. great suggestion.

 

[no frills]

these guesses are awesome. i expected it to be a dead give-away, but these answers are amazing. never realized how many potential answers there could be.

all will be told at high noon today. or thereabouts.

nice IWC, elisiX!

Boom! So excited! Less than two hours before the grand reveal!

 

[in stitches]

 

[mackmittonz]

Some of the watches on here are unreal! I could really use some help here...I'm really torn between a couple vintage watches I like for an elegant dress watch. I don't have much experience evaluating the value of vintage watches so I was hoping someone might be able to help here. I have a brown strap steel dress watch and some more sport oriented pieces so this type of watch would round out a hole in my collection nicely. I'm looking for a simple clean (but not Baohaus inspired) gold dress watch with a quality movement.

What I don't know is the following:

-Which watch has a more desirable movement?
-Which watch is more sought after?
-Which watch is a better value based on the selling price?

AP: http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg&goto=6555682&rid=105041#msg_6555682

Patek: http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=6549685&rid=0

 

[in stitches]

i dont know enough about vintage pieces to really answer those questions, though i imagine both models have a relatively "basic" movement, certainly seems so from the PP pic. tiffany co-branded pieces are neat and based purely off of aesthetics, they are too similar to really say i like one much more than the other, kind of a toss up for me.

 

[mimo]

I am in no position to answer any of your questions with any authority (better hope Dino shows up...).

But I will say one thing: although they're both great to look at, I couldn't get along with either of them simply because of the size. I've had a 34mm watch before - on a bracelet and thicker than the AP too - and it just looked too tiny on my (average, I guess) wrist. My better half insisted it was insufficiently manly! My current daily watch is still barely over 35mm but it's amazing how much difference that makes, especially with more modern larger lugs and a thicker case too.

So, although as a layman, I'd say the PP is both prettier and the most celebrated brand, it's also at the smaller end of men's watches even by vintage standards. Even the AP might look odd on you if you want it as a regular dress watch. Therefore, getting to the point: I wouldn't buy either of them without trying something similar on and checking it didn't look like it was my mother's.

They are both very beautiful, though.

 

[Dino944]

Some of the watches on here are unreal! I could really use some help here...I'm really torn between a couple vintage watches I like for an elegant dress watch. I don't have much experience evaluating the value of vintage watches so I was hoping someone might be able to help here. I have a brown strap steel dress watch and some more sport oriented pieces so this type of watch would round out a hole in my collection nicely. I'm looking for a simple clean (but not Baohaus inspired) gold dress watch with a quality movement.

What I don't know is the following:

-Which watch has a more desirable movement?
-Which watch is more sought after?
-Which watch is a better value based on the selling price?

AP: http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg&goto=6555682&rid=105041#msg_6555682

Patek: http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=6549685&rid=0

Both are from top end brands, similar designs, gold case, roman dial, both appear to have been retailed by Tiffany & co. Both are similar in sizes, the AP is 34mm and the PP is 33mm. I personally would prefer the 34 to a 33 mm watch case, but that's something that is up to you.

I think the size, relatively small by today's standards may limit them being as you asked "More sought after or collectible" in the future. Today people tend to favor watches that are at least 36 mm or larger.

Many people feel that Patek has a bit more cache today. I don't know that it truly matters on piece of this vintage or size.

The big difference is the movement. The AP is an automatic, the Patek is a manual. Beyond that AP's movement 2120, is a fantastic and iconic movement. It one of the thinnest automatic movements of all time. It was also in its base form, the only movement ever to be used by AP, Patek, and Vacheron Constantin. AP owns the rights to it, and still uses it their Ultra Thin Jules Audemars and the RO Jumbo (but using the date version 2121). VC has continued to use this movement in a few of their pieces even in recent years. Patek makes a nice movement and its always beautifully finished. I don't know enough about the movement in this particular Patek to say whether its really something unusual for Patek, but I don't see anything special about it compared to other pieces from its time frame.

As for price, Patek has a certain cache and are often priced a bit higher than a similar AP or VC. Beyond that, IMHO its really personal preference.

 

[Dino944]

i dont know enough about vintage pieces to really answer those questions, though i imagine both models have a relatively "basic" movement, certainly seems so from the PP pic. tiffany co-branded pieces are neat and based purely off of aesthetics, they are too similar to really say i like one much more than the other, kind of a toss up for me.

+1 Spot on Stitchy!

PS...less than 10 minutes for the unveiling!

 

[Dino944]

I am in no position to answer any of your questions with any authority (better hope Dino shows up...).

But I will say one thing: although they're both great to look at, I couldn't get along with either of them simply because of the size. I've had a 34mm watch before - on a bracelet and thicker than the AP too - and it just looked too tiny on my (average, I guess) wrist. My better half insisted it was insufficiently manly! My current daily watch is still barely over 35mm but it's amazing how much difference that makes, especially with more modern larger lugs and a thicker case too.


So, although as a layman, I'd say the PP is both prettier and the most celebrated brand, it's also at the smaller end of men's watches even by vintage standards. Even the AP might look odd on you if you want it as a regular dress watch.


Therefore, getting to the point: I wouldn't buy either of them without trying something similar on and checking it didn't look like it was my mother's.

They are both very beautiful, though.

For some reason I can't multi quote at the moment.

LOLing...(better hope Dino shows up) . Thanks...I couldn't help but chuckle a bit.

I agree 100% regarding size. I would have to try something on that size to be sure I would be happy with it.

IMHO the AP movement is the better of the 2 movements. But others who have a strong PP bias might disagree. If the PP were an ultra thin auto, with as storied a history as cal 2020 (and its variations) it might level the playing field a bit more than just having PP's cache.

 

[Omega Male]



Have you tried both on the wrist? They wear quite differently, I find. Mostly due to the bracelets. I love the El Primero Daytonas, and sold my 15300 rather quickly ...

Did get to the AP boutique on the Rue Saint-Honore today where the rather foxy agent let me fondle her ... 15400s and 15202s.

Probably going to hell for this, but I honestly prefer the new one. Standard length bracelet fits me to the millimeter, too. It must be a sign!

PS: Paris (or at least the 1st) as usual makes me feel fat, ugly, ill-dressed and poor. Other than that, I love it!

 

[mackmittonz]



Both are from top end brands, similar designs, gold case, roman dial, both appear to have been retailed by Tiffany & co.  Both are similar in sizes, the AP is 34mm and the PP is 33mm.  I personally would prefer the 34 to a 33 mm watch case, but that's something that is up to you. 

I think the size, relatively small by today's standards may limit them being as you asked "More sought after or collectible" in the future.  Today people tend to favor watches that are at least 36 mm or larger. 

Many people feel that Patek has a bit more cache today.  I don't know that it truly matters on piece of this vintage or size.

The big difference is the movement.  The AP is an automatic, the Patek is a manual.  Beyond that AP's movement 2120, is a fantastic and iconic movement.  It one of the thinnest automatic movements of all time.  It was also in its base form, the only movement ever to be used by AP, Patek, and Vacheron Constantin.    AP owns the rights to it, and still uses it their Ultra Thin Jules Audemars and the RO Jumbo (but using the date version 2121).  VC has continued to use this movement in a few of their pieces even in recent years.  Patek makes a nice movement and its always beautifully finished.  I don't know enough about the movement in this particular Patek to say whether its really something unusual for Patek, but I don't see anything special about it compared to other pieces from its time frame.

As for price, Patek has a certain cache and are often priced a bit higher than a similar AP or VC.  Beyond that, IMHO its really personal preference.

This response and the others thus far are exactly why I posted my question here. The info is extremely helpful and is not some sort of fanboy based drivel. I think I'm leaning toward the AP given the information on the movement. I would love to own a Patek but I thought the movement looked pretty pedestrian as well. I'm not own to just buy something based on the brand typically so I'll wait and grab another Patek when the opportunity arises.

As for the concerns about size, I have to confess that the primary wearer of the watch will be my wife. I typically wear silver colored belt buckles and brown shoes so my brown strap steel case watches get 99% of the wrist time. Maybe once every couple months I'll wear black chelseas and will need a watch and this one could work in a pinch.

Thanks again for everyone's information. It was definitely very helpful!

P.S. The Tiffany branding has nothing to do with why I chose these two watches. I just ended up finding these two and they both had the branding.