Frederick Scholte (Savile Row)

...and you are right about the weskit.

Writes Eric Musgrave: "The suit jacket was made by Scholte of London, while the trousers, with zipped fly, were tailored by Harris of New York. The matching waistcoat was made by Hawes and Curtis, as were the two pique waistcoats. Scholte made the green corduroy version. Who else but a menswear obsessive would involve three tailors on different sides of the Atlantic for an outfit?"

I saw one of the DoW double breasted jacket's and his paper pattern cut by scholte at the FIT 1930's Fashions exhibit. Was surprised what a small man he was.

A review of London tailors and shirtmakers, and advice for the bespoke customer, from the New Yorker, 1930. Tailoring firms in that era had much larger staffs, making possible astonishingly quick turnaround times: only three weeks for bespoke shoes and two weeks for your first suit with a tailor, including four fittings. Then there's a fifth fitting after you've worn the suit for a week for final adjustments.

Scholte appears, though misspelled as his name often is in articles as "Sholte." Anderson & Sheppard and Davies & Sons are also named as among the best in London. Suits at the best firms were 17.17 pounds, or only $1,695 in today's dollars.

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Great article - thanks for posting.

Never knew that Lesley & Roberts (now owned by Welsh & Jefferies) was also once considered a 'soft' tailor.

It's very rare to find descriptions and reviews of Scholte's tailoring from the time he was active. The following article from the New York Herald Tribune, October 20, 1934, compares a Scholte tailcoat and dinner jacket on the left with a more conservative tailor on the right. The Scholte models have wider shoulders and trimmer waists in the jackets, as well as deeper pleats in the trousers. I've included the accompanying text on the bottom.







Accompanying text:

Very cool!

Nice finds, CS.

RJE posted a similar comparison here once.

http://bit.ly/1oXAWIR



CrimsonSox said:

It's very rare to find descriptions and reviews of Scholte's tailoring from the time he was active. The following article from the New York Herald Tribune, October 20, 1934, compares a Scholte tailcoat and dinner jacket on the left with a more conservative tailor on the right. The Scholte models have wider shoulders and trimmer waists in the jackets, as well as deeper pleats in the trousers. I've included the accompanying text on the bottom.

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Thanks for the write up. Interestingly the tailcoat Steed made for me has a voluminous chest and has a somewhat rounded in appearance. The lapels are not angled as the Scholte nor are the fronts as dramatically cut away. If you had only made this post 1 year ago, I might have asked them if they could copy the Scholte!



poorsod said:

Thanks for the write up. Interestingly the tailcoat Steed made for me has a voluminous chest and has a somewhat rounded in appearance. The lapels are not angled as the Scholte nor are the fronts as dramatically cut away. If you had only made this post 1 year ago, I might have asked them if they could copy the Scholte!

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You could have refer to these wide available Scholte for the DoW examples:

It would be interesting to see a picture of your tailcoat if you have the opportunity Poorsod. I love Edwin DeBoise's work at Steed. And it's the rare elegant gentleman who owns a tailcoat!



marcodalondra said:

You could have refer to these wide available Scholte for the DoW examples:

Click to expand...

I have this picture saved but it was the description of the Scholte cut vs the conservative cut in the article that I noticed the differences.

CrimsonSox said:

It would be interesting to see a picture of your tailcoat if you have the opportunity Poorsod.  I love Edwin DeBoise's work at Steed.  And it's the rare elegant gentleman who owns a tailcoat!

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I only have party pictures of the tailcoat - ie bad lighting and poor perspective. Currently, the pants are at the tailors or adjustment.

Interesting on the simon vs. slew comparison as slews is an A&S expat and crompton's is a Poole.

IMO the drape style DB is far superior.

I'd be cautious of putting too much stock in a direct comparison of Simon's clothes. Despite the comparative nature of his blog, the clothes are made not to reflect the tailor's typical house style but built to Simon's rather specific tastes. For example, he has very sloped shoulders but doesn't like shoulder padding or artificial anatomical correction. That alone can dramatically affect the overall presentation of the resulting garments, and is a taste much more in the Italian tradition than the English. The result is tailoring that is very personalized, as bespoke should be, but less than ideal as a salesman's sample.

As illustration of the limitations of these artificial comparisons, that Poole is in a very lightweight cloth, unpressesed, being juxtaposed directly against a suit that naturally drapes much better and didn't just come out of a box. And both being made for and worn by two very different body types.

What about the lack of front darts in many Scholte coats?
I have read that in his coats were curved slanted darts.