or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Briefcase porn thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Briefcase porn thread - Page 167

post #2491 of 2582
Quote:
Originally Posted by letsi View Post

Great stuff there! Just curious how do you compare your equus leather wallets against chester mox in terms of SPI? nest.gif hehe...
It's back in its former glory smile.gif
Has to be, the tell-tale strap holders biggrin.gif

I dont know what SPI they use, but ours are 10 and at times 12spi depending on the style. You'll have to ask them about theirs - I think they probably sell more volume than us via various online sales channels and we concentrate on more detail, more exotic leathers and a more European style - I don't know if thats fair or they'd agree with that though and their work looks nice in the photos Ive seen

Charlie
post #2492 of 2582
I have enjoyed reading all the comments hand-stitching/SPI and found the information highly informative, but was wondering if more would be willing to weigh in on leather cuts. Specifically bridle butt vs shoulder when used in the construction of briefcases. I'm leaning towards thinking the extra cost and weight associated with the use of butt may not be worth it versus the use of quality shoulder bridle.
post #2493 of 2582
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr Mouse View Post

I have enjoyed reading all the comments hand-stitching/SPI and found the information highly informative, but was wondering if more would be willing to weigh in on leather cuts. Specifically bridle butt vs shoulder when used in the construction of briefcases. I'm leaning towards thinking the extra cost and weight associated with the use of butt may not be worth it versus the use of quality shoulder bridle.

Shoulder is always a compromise. The leather isnt as consistent, as strong and wont age as well as butt/bend. The shoulder is a highly mobile area so the skin is looser and will have more growth and stretch marks and looser fibres. Its a red herring by makers to say shoulder is lighter or thinner, while its true you can generally either split leather to whatever weight you want if its for a lined case or buy bridle butt in a lighter weight to achieve higher quality with less weight and a finished flesh side. Id say its always a sign costs are being cut if shoulder is being used.All IMO and the case makers may have somthing to say

Charlie
post #2494 of 2582
Quote:
Originally Posted by Equus Leather View Post


Shoulder is always a compromise. The leather isnt as consistent, as strong and wont age as well as butt/bend. The shoulder is a highly mobile area so the skin is looser and will have more growth and stretch marks and looser fibres. Its a red herring by makers to say shoulder is lighter or thinner, while its true you can generally either split leather to whatever weight you want if its for a lined case or buy bridle butt in a lighter weight to achieve higher quality with less weight and a finished flesh side. Id say its always a sign costs are being cut if shoulder is being used.All IMO and the case makers may have somthing to say

Charlie

 

I agree.

 

The only notable exceptions (in case making) are:

 

Tuscan tanneries that have specialized in tanning double shoulders for hundreds of years, and shrunken-grain hide (the character can be interesting because of the stressed grain.)

 

I haven't found any other reason to use shoulder leather in particular, though. I usually buy sides or whole hides. All IMO as well. 

post #2495 of 2582
I had to look at a leather chart to refresh my memory, but I believe I had the terms for each cut mixed up. A maker who I know produces quality goods advertises his leather as from bridle bends. This refers to the cut that comes from the sides and butt, correct? I had remembered this wrong and got it confused with the cut with leather from the shoulder area when the topic of shoulder vs butt was brought up recently.
post #2496 of 2582
Code:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr Mouse View Post

I had to look at a leather chart to refresh my memory, but I believe I had the terms for each cut mixed up. A maker who I know produces quality goods advertises his leather as from bridle bends. This refers to the cut that comes from the sides and butt, correct? I had remembered this wrong and got it confused with the cut with leather from the shoulder area when the topic of shoulder vs butt was brought up recently.

A bend is from the end of the shoulder back, less the belly.

So:

Shoulder+bend+belly= Side

Side x 2 = whole hide.


Some tanneries dont sell the belly with a side, some do. It's scrap either way.
post #2497 of 2582
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr Mouse View Post

I had to look at a leather chart to refresh my memory, but I believe I had the terms for each cut mixed up. A maker who I know produces quality goods advertises his leather as from bridle bends. This refers to the cut that comes from the sides and butt, correct? I had remembered this wrong and got it confused with the cut with leather from the shoulder area when the topic of shoulder vs butt was brought up recently.

A bend is a butt, they refer to the same cut. I'm not sure if the different terminology is English vs Americian or Saddler vs Cobbler, but either way it's the same
post #2498 of 2582
Quote:
Originally Posted by Equus Leather View Post

I dont know what SPI they use, but ours are 10 and at times 12spi depending on the style. You'll have to ask them about theirs - I think they probably sell more volume than us via various online sales channels and we concentrate on more detail, more exotic leathers and a more European style - I don't know if thats fair or they'd agree with that though and their work looks nice in the photos Ive seen

Charlie

Charlie, great reply there, appreciate the factuality and tact in your response without having to drag anyone through the mud like others have done in this thread satisfied.gif I'll probably check with Chester Mox before I plan my purchase.

Would be great if Equus has plans for leather other than reptile skin with regards to the wallet collection. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Cheers!
post #2499 of 2582
Quote:
Originally Posted by letsi View Post

Charlie, great reply there, appreciate the factuality and tact in your response without having to drag anyone through the mud like others have done in this thread satisfied.gif I'll probably check with Chester Mox before I plan my purchase.

Would be great if Equus has plans for leather other than reptile skin with regards to the wallet collection. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Cheers!

We use lots of leathers other than reptiles! In the order book at the moment we have wallets in Goatskin/chèvre, St Crispin calf, Baranil,, Barenia, Alligator and Ostrich. We're bespoke makers and there's rarely such a thing as a standard order. Even just ordering via the website you can build more or less anything you want as well as select from what we have in stock

For eg

http://www.equusleather.co.uk/accessories/equus-handstitched-wallets/the-lloyd-card-case.html
post #2500 of 2582

What a beaut, trlhtn. 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by trlhtn View Post


 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PierpontLeather View Post
 


Porn thread / thread porn ... same thing :satisfied: 

 

 

You're briefcase looks nice. I like the creasing on the strap keeps!

I laughed.

I do as well, even as it reminds me to get out the grease. We've been through a great deal very quickly, and she needs to look her best. The weather "misted" the day she arrived, creating instant worry about producing rain spots. Generous applications of Sedgwick's and elbow grease had taken care of that worry when, the next day, the sky DUMPED rain on us all day. It's been like since she arrived a couple weeks ago. I'm itching and rubbing like a meth addict just thinking about it... reaching for the sedgwick's now. 

 

Get bendin' them straps, trlthn!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikola View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 


Amazing, is that Ray Clark's briefcase? 

In the flesh. And, for the nerds, she's all butt (where it counts, anyway :) ). Even the divider is thick. 5 mm thick. And all around. Stitching is neat and tight.  Just what you'd expect. And it's a beast. It has it's own momentum. Slow pedestrians need to watch their knees 'n' children's faces.

 

(Note that you can ask Ray anything and he is very upfront about his choices-- just so there isn't any need for speculation. I can also personally say that his services has been second to none in my bespoke and MTO experience. I have been surprised on numerous occasions by the care he takes.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by letsi View Post


Great stuff there! Just curious how do you compare your equus leather wallets against chester mox in terms of SPI? nest.gif hehe...
It's back in its former glory smile.gif
Has to be, the tell-tale strap holders biggrin.gif

Has to be and is. I believe his strap holders are an example of what the Brits call "flare"; he really "lets his hair down" with those Flying V's. :D  Seriously, I couldn't be happier. He is still the rarest find in the industry, in my opinion. I may not be a (pathological) anglophile the way so many of our american comrades on SF are these days, but you have to pay respect when you see it.

post #2501 of 2582
Quote:
Originally Posted by Equus Leather View Post

A bend is a butt, they refer to the same cut. I'm not sure if the different terminology is English vs Americian or Saddler vs Cobbler, but either way it's the same

Yes, as I said I had remembered these terms incorrectly and had the cuts mixed up. shog[1].gif

Thanks for sharing you knowledge as always.
post #2502 of 2582

Ray's shop is back and running. It turns out that he just wanted a few weeks vacation. I'm wicked excited to hear that he's not gone for good and just ordered my first briefcase from him 

post #2503 of 2582
Quote:
Originally Posted by Equus Leather View Post

We use lots of leathers other than reptiles! In the order book at the moment we have wallets in Goatskin/chèvre, St Crispin calf, Baranil,, Barenia, Alligator and Ostrich. We're bespoke makers and there's rarely such a thing as a standard order. Even just ordering via the website you can build more or less anything you want as well as select from what we have in stock

For eg

http://www.equusleather.co.uk/accessories/equus-handstitched-wallets/the-lloyd-card-case.html

I must have missed out on that particular model. Will relook at it and start saving up happy.gif
post #2504 of 2582
Quote:
Originally Posted by letsi View Post

I must have missed out on that particular model. Will relook at it and start saving up happy.gif

Really all the designs can be just as diverse in leather choices - the card case is one of my favorites though, my everyday carry is a full ostrich version so I used that one as an example

Back to briefcases!

Charlie
post #2505 of 2582
...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Briefcase porn thread