NYC Summer Suit material

Torsion · Mar 29, 2013

Hi all, having just moved to NYC I appreciate that the summers can be feriociously hot and humid.
I'm looking for some advice in regards to suit material for the summer.
I wear a suit everyday which includes a tie and I also hope to do so in the summer (even if it kills me!) and have been looking/reading up on Fresco.

Can I have some opinions on this cloth? I don't think linen will be an option due to the wrinkles. I want to maintain a business look and in navy (as the preference). I have one very sharp navy mohair suit which I will rotate but don't want to over wear as that one is a real beauty!

Thanks in advance!

Mark Seitelman · Mar 29, 2013

Ask your tailor/clothier.

My personal opinion is that lightweight is the key to "coolness" rather than the selection of cloth type. An 8 ounce tropical wool is preferable to a 12 ounce fresco.

Fresco is a bit overrated here. One reason is because it has fallen out of favor in the RTW market. It is too rough.

I think that a good tropical weight of 8 to 9 ounces will be fine with enough wrinkle resistance.

I do not find cotton cooling. This includes seersucker and gabardine.

Linen has an incomparable, comfortable feel. But it is not for formal social or conservative business settings.

I also vote for Dupioni silk and mohair. However, you have to determine if this fits your work and social status. They can be a bit flashy.

Good luck.

msulinski · Mar 30, 2013

I am trying to figure out this same thing right now. I am getting 2 suits: one in a Holland and Sherry 7.5 tropical weight wool (dark blue), the other in a Minnis 8.5 oz fresco in light gray.

Both jackets are both quarter/half lined, and the trousers both half-lined to the knee in the front only. I am still not 100% on this last bit, but I can easily get the lining removed if it proves to be too hot.

I am going to have to see which one proves to be better in the extreme heat: the more open weave, or the lighter-weight fabric.

Macallan · Mar 30, 2013

Personally, I do not like Fresco as a work suit cloth; for summer odd-trousers they are fine. For a suit, I prefer Holland & Sherry's Crispaires over Fresco; you could consider getting both suits from tropical wool cloth.

The best thing to do, would be to look at the swatches in person; you may like Fresco.

msulinski · Mar 30, 2013

Macallan said:
Personally, I do not like Fresco as a work suit cloth; for summer odd-trousers they are fine. For a suit, I prefer Holland & Sherry's Crispaires over Fresco; you could consider getting both suits from tropical wool cloth.

The best thing to do, would be to look at the swatches in person; you may like Fresco.

Crispaire is a fresco, isn't it?

NewYorkBuck · Mar 30, 2013

For me, the weave has been more important in keeping cool. I have some quite lightweight worsteds that are so tightly woven that they are very hot.

Macallan · Mar 30, 2013

msulinski said:
Crispaire is a fresco, isn't it?

Yes, but we cannot called it 'Fresco' and it is made by JJ Minnis. It is not as rough as Fresco, which is why I would prefer it for a summer work suit. If someone was looking for a non-work suit, a sports jacket or odd-trousers, I think Fresco works well.

I considered both books for summer odd-trousers and both had their advantages.

Torsion · Mar 30, 2013

Thanks for the opinions so far, where's a good place to look at swatches in NY?
Have any of you guys bought the material seperately then given to your particular tailors to make up?
My tailor is back in London and I'm going back in May so thinking of dropping the material to him then - normally I would choose the fabric with him but maybe this time I'll pick my own (could be risking it as he's Italian and may get offended with his lack of involvement on the material choice :s)

msulinski · Mar 30, 2013

The Minnis fresco I just got is rather refined looking, at least to me

msulinski · Mar 30, 2013

I know LS Men's has the Crispaire book as well as the H&S tropical weight book. I don't think they'll sell you the fabric though, unless they are making the suit for you.

edmorel · Mar 30, 2013

Crispaire is more refined and has a better saturation of color than Fresco, IMO.

This blue is a shade lighter than navy and perfect for s spring summer suit:

msulinski · Mar 30, 2013

What weight is that blue? It looks very nice.

Moloch38 · Mar 30, 2013

What are the fabric numbers/details for those Blue/Navy and Grays Crispaires?

edmorel · Mar 30, 2013

weight is 9.5/10oz and the numbers are:

Navy - 332039
Grey - 332043

Gus · Mar 30, 2013

I have an Isaia navy jacket that is woven from the lightest weight wool, with a loose weave and a bit of a puckered texture. It is like an air conditioned jacket.

I've seen other suits using a variation of this fabric -think subtle weave, solid navy seersucker-like cloth but in wool. You might consider something like this.

NYC Summer Suit material

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