Looking for some opinions and experience about the bespoke process in 3x1 (NYC) and Richard James, Timothy Everest and Gieves & Hawkes (London).
About the price, how much should I be prepared to pay for 3-5 pieces?
Thank you guys.
Man they use Japonese denim, email that I received today from Timothy Everest:
Thank you for your email. We offer a full bespoke or made to measure denim service. We either cut a paper pattern for bespoke and make from measures or we offer a made to measure service whereby we work from our master model with amendments.
We offer 50 denims, rivets, buttons and thread colours so you can create the perfect jean. All production is in Okyama in Japan the home of denim. Prices start from £595 and go up to £1200.
If you wish to discuss this further please do not hesitate in contacting me directly.
My love affair with denim started when I got my hands on a pair of Diesel Zathans. At the time I was wearing whatever I could find at Robinsons May or Macys. The thought of paying $200 (this is late 90's money fellas) for a pair of denim sounded absurd. But man, I rocked that pair through thick and thin until it was finally laid to rest a few years back. A really well constructed pair of quality denim is really worth its weight in gold. (If you could buy gold at 1990's prices ha)
The idea of den.m bar started over a year ago with that very belief, craft a solid pair and it'll last a damn long time. A lot of the posters are right, Harbin, JohnnyLaw, there are so many quality brands out there that one of them will fit you just about right. However, after having been open for 6 months, there are a LOT of folks who don't fit your standard ready to wear denim. Guys who want selvedge but rock huge thighs and quads. Taller fellas above 6'6. The GLBT crowd who want to switch up traditional gender types in denim. Ladies with well endowed asses and skinny waistlines.
My advice to anyone getting bespoke denim is to clearly articulate to your tailor the cut you want (skinny, straight leg), the amount of room/ease you want in the hips & legs, purpose & function (do you wear suits to work or are jeans acceptable) & even what type of shoes you’ll normally wear with jeans.
I don’t know of any bespoke/mtm ateliers using cheap non-American or Japanese denim. That wouldn’t make sense at the price points we charge. At den.m bar, we use raw unsanforized Cone Denim, Nisshinbo, Kaihara & Kurabo. We’ve spec’d all the fabric under different wash conditions, so we know the amount of shrinkage. All of this is taken into account when creating your pattern piece and during the fitting process. E.g., if you plan on going without a wash for 6 months, we’ll make sure your jeans are snug to the point of being slightly uncomfortable so they can break out over time. If you’re the type to carry hand sanitizer on you at all times, we’ll probably give you another inch of room in certain areas, knowing you’ll be washing the denim as soon as you touch a bus bench.
If you’re a 5’10 guy with average build, yeah going the bespoke route may not make sense. Then again, everyone would love their own pair of custom built jeans, made one of one for them and them only. From a bias personal opinion, I would not recommend paying more than $600 for a pair of bespoke denim (unless the ENTIRE process is bespoke). As anyone with pattern making experience can attest, creating a pattern from scratch is a time intensive process.