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*** Official S/S 2013 Runway Thread *** - Page 19

post #271 of 414
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

I didn't like Raf's weird die-cut shorts. who wears matching jacket and shorts? confused.gif with black socks and dress shoes, too, yikes. I know I'm totally not the target market, but I also think those cartoon prints are just fugly. Are they some kind of reflection or commentary on a new cultural trend? manga? dubstep? ;-)

The weird thing is that I agree with you on all the above but for some reason I can't dislike this collections as much as some of the previous ones (and I hate the shorts) : /
post #272 of 414
delete, misread comment
post #273 of 414
Thread Starter 
post #274 of 414
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

plain.gif

Well, the readers of that magazine aren't particularly fashion literate.  The New Yorker isn't vogue.  But it's also talking about his entire career, and when he inherited the brand in 2001 or so, the bags the label was pumping out were akin to those LV bags with the logo plastered everywhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

I read that New Yorker piece on Maier a while back and I remember having more respect for him and the brand afterward. They're very serious about keeping alive that heritage of Italian craftsmanship and they seem very exacting about the quality of their stuff. Part of the reason it's so expensive. But Maier has apparently done a great job of turning the brand around, and a big piece of that is their turn away from excessive branding to less conspicuous luxury. It's not minimalist in the design sense, just in its branding when compared with other luxury products.


Yeah, I quite like a lot of their stuff, and keeping alive craftmanship is a nice (if often overstated) pursuit. Just the way that article reads is a little wanky to me.
post #275 of 414
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Fellow Linguist View Post

http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/07/02/simons-starts-triumphantly-at-dior/?hp
NY Times piece on Raf's first couture collection. A couple of pics, but not much to go by. It looks nice, but I don't really know about couture, so I can't comment.

It's funny how they have Marc Jacobs, Alber Elbaz who were designers considered for the Dior position seated in front during the show as if to take notes for just in case Raf's Dior doesn't work out, they know what mistakes to avoid. The response from critics are mostly positive considering Raf is a novice in HC but is capable of handling a label as proven with his own brand and Jil Sander.

In his interviews, he mentioned that he wants to combine the past and the future for Dior like for example making a classic HC ball gown into a miniature size transforming it as a top to be worn with trousers to make it modern as seen here

fdd0ccd1.jpg

Another way he wants Dior to be modern is to make it accessible for today like pairing a classic ball skirt with a sheer bodysuit shown here

ef003626.jpg

I think design wise, there is a lot to look forward to with Raf. What I think he succeeded with is the styling part and the buzz of his fresh take on Dior
post #276 of 414
Damir looks nice. seems more polished and futuristic than his last collection -- the vest looks like it should hold an iphone 7G and a light saber.
post #277 of 414
2 things I found interesting with the shows

Christopher Raeburn- "dumb tops", it's fun
dbe7b261.jpg

Kim Jones for LV- cashmere neoprene "makes you feel good"
8480840d.jpg

fun+makes you feel good=sex
what guy doesn't want sex?
post #278 of 414
this reminded me of you colabear

hX1mb.gif
post #279 of 414
that's about right, but in my world, they are all upside down
post #280 of 414

This Damir jacket reminds me of a very old Yohji jacket from A/W 1983/84.

 

350x527px-LL-c355dacd_damir-doma-mens-details-spring-summer-2013-pfw95.jpeg

 

vs.

 

Yohji Yamamoto, AW 1983-84.jpg

post #281 of 414
Like others have sid, Damir has quite a few nice pieces in this collection but it doesn't all quite hang together. Not that that in itself is a horrible thing of course. Not sure how I feel about his journey to commercial viability though. Will see how it works out for him in the long run.
post #282 of 414
imo DDs collection looks pretty much like something dries would do
Edited by Zeemon - 7/4/12 at 12:46am
post #283 of 414
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

I read that New Yorker piece on Maier a while back and I remember having more respect for him and the brand afterward. They're very serious about keeping alive that heritage of Italian craftsmanship and they seem very exacting about the quality of their stuff. Part of the reason it's so expensive. But Maier has apparently done a great job of turning the brand around, and a big piece of that is their turn away from excessive branding to less conspicuous luxury. It's not minimalist in the design sense, just in its branding when compared with other luxury products.

Pretty much every high-end brand turned away from heavy branding a while ago, we aren't in the 90s. BV sells to Middle-Easterners/Chinese/Cultural lepers like LV (which still has some branding).
post #284 of 414
Have to admit Dior HC was pretty cool. Thought LV was ridiculous on first glance, but on second I could even see myself wearing some of the nautical gear. I've tried on some of their RTW and it all felt top notch, of course, but that was a couple years ago and the style was massive but not in a cool way.
post #285 of 414
I like Damir this season though as others have pointed out it seems a bit incohesive. He's definitely taken things in a different direction from a few seasons ago, but I don't really think he's watered down anything in the process. I think he should tone down some of the brighter colors a little, but it's really nothing big to remark on.

Yohji was just great.
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