WW Chan coat fit -- comments needed. Concerns



hymo said:

May I know how many fittings you had for this jacket? Was Patrick your fitter?

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Hymo, indeed. He was my fitter. Is there a particular reason for this question?

bboysdontcryy said:

I'm guessing that these 'common problems' should have been caught, and rectified, during the fittings then?

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Yes, without a doubt.



bboysdontcryy said:

Hymo, indeed. He was my fitter. Is there a particular reason for this question?

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It's that I've seen Patrick deliver many well fitted suits over the years. It's unfortunate there's a glitch with yours.

I'm surprised it looks like this after a fitting too. Were standing very erect with your shoulders held back at the fitting? And/or were you standing with your shoulders pushed forward for the photo? Either one could cause horizontal lines. If it isn't one of these things, I'm sure Patrick will fix it the next time you're in HK.

Same goes for the sleeves if there are problems there. But I wouldn't worry how they look on the hanger. All that matters is how they look on you.



emptym said:

I'm surprised it looks like this after a fitting too. Were standing very erect with your shoulders held back at the fitting? And/or were you standing with your shoulders pushed forward for the photo? Either one could cause horizontal lines. If it isn't one of these things, I'm sure Patrick will fix it the next time you're in HK.
Same goes for the sleeves if there are problems there. But I wouldn't worry how they look on the hanger. All that matters is how they look on you.

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I know what you mean. I've had several coats cut for me before, so I know not to make the horrendous mistake of standing in too erect a manner. I was standing in my natural posture, in pretty much the same way as I am in the photo.

In fact, I thought that my standing posture might be a cause for concern which is why I experimented with all conceivable standing postures and had photos taken. The horizontal lines remained, or got worse, thus pointing to the fact that it wasn't due to my standing posture.

Actually, the sleeves don't look good, in my opinion. Even my spouse who knows nothing about menswear asked me why my right sleeve seems to fit differently from the left, and why there are that meany creases on the right sleeve.

In any case, I've sent them a mail, and asked them for possible reasons for why this is so. They might help shed some light on this.



bboysdontcryy said:

I know what you mean. I've had several coats cut for me before, so I know not to make the horrendous mistake of standing in too erect a manner. I was standing in my natural posture, in pretty much the same way as I am in the photo.
In fact, I thought that my standing posture might be a cause for concern which is why I experimented with all conceivable standing postures and had photos taken. The horizontal lines remained, or got worse, thus pointing to the fact that it wasn't due to my standing posture...

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I was wondering about this too, as you seem to stand a little awkward in the pic. Could have been oversight, but I would have been very surprised if Patrick would not have caught these lines at the final fitting.

bboysdontcryy said:

....Actually, the sleeves don't look good, in my opinion. Even my spouse who knows nothing about menswear asked me why my right sleeve seems to fit differently from the left, and why there are that meany creases on the right sleeve.
In any case, I've sent them a mail, and asked them for possible reasons for why this is so. They might help shed some light on this.

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Similarly, if Patrick did the final fitting and was happy with your sleeves, I would have almost said not to worry about it (can't see much on your picture in terms of sleeve pitch). But I agree with E: if there is actually something wrong, they will fix it for you. Now I am curious though: any chance you can post sleeve issue pics?



hymo said:

It's that I've seen Patrick deliver many well fitted suits over the years. It's unfortunate there's a glitch with yours.

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As great and accommodating as Chan/Patrick are, it is not uncommon to have delivered (via mail) suits with issues. The normal course is to visit on their tour so Patrick can see what the problem is, and you mail the suit back to HK for correction. In my case sending the suits back was done multiple times, even for my 5th and 6th suits. So this is not a "glitch" but a part of the traveling tailor process. I would like to think there are folks who are delivered products that are spot on the first time, but it is certainly not the norm in my experience. If you don't have the patience or stomach for it, then RTW or local tailors are best.

To OP, just see Patrick. He has a good eye - he'll correct the issues.

Yep - issues are not uncommon at all. But they usually get resolved - takes time (months) and money (shipping) though

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On hanger



Take a look at the right sleeve. A photograph doesn't capture the 3-dimensional elements of an object, but notice the deep crease on the right sleeve, and the excess fabric? Essentially, the sleeve curves in a queer way similar to that of the jacket sleeve where it is hung on the hangar.

Fabric around the arm-scythe also bloats outwards. Obviously it's hard to capture this bloating effect and the depth of the crease that shows how the sleeve is warped. But I think you get my point.

In order to assuage doubts about standing posture, I decided to post a picture of me standing erect. Note the more pronounced creases along the sleeve etc? Creases beneath the collar remain.


*However, I wish to point out that this isn't my typical standing posture, and a bespoke coat, should rightly, in my opinion, account for my slight hunch etc.



bboysdontcryy said:

On hanger

Take a look at the right sleeve. A photograph doesn't capture the 3-dimensional elements of a picture, but notice the deep crease on the right sleeve, and the excess fabric? Essentially, the sleeve curves in a queer way similar to that of the jacket sleeve where it is hung on the hangar.

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There is definitely some problem with the right sleeve.

But even in the hanger picture you can clealy see the rotational crease that's just as obvious when the jacket is being worn.

You definitely should get them to fix the sleeve. The left isn't perfect but passable, but the right sleeve is -- I'm sorry -- terrible. There is some serious torquing going on.

I'm actually rather surprised at how your fitter (assuming you had fittings) overlooked such an obvious issue, especially when there used to be quite a bit of positive reviews vis-a-vis their workmanship some time ago.

The back needs to be optimized and if you contact Chan I am sure they will take care of it for free (I think issues like this can even be fixed by a decent alterations tailor).

Regarding the sleeve: I am not sure that the coat should be cut to hang perfectly on the hanger, but I see what worries you. Again a quick check-in with Chan might get you closer to a fix.

Quick question: How many fittings did you have? A basted and two additional ones?