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First bespoke/MTM suit and charcoal herringbone?

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 



Basically, this post is split into 2... and I'd super appreciate help with either or both of them, as I go to Thailand and buy my first non OTR suit on Wednesday.


Part 1 is about what style of suit to get.
Part 2 is about what I need to ask for in shirts and suit (material, yolk, etc).



I'm going to get a charcoal suit in Thailand next week.  I'm leaning towards a herringbone pattern, with the most boring two-button Hugo Boss cut.


But, I can't seem to find too many herringbone patterened suits. Are they not fashionable atm? A tiny houndstooth is also an option that I'm considering - but I think I may need to be ab it older to wear it comfortably. I wouldn't mind pinstripes, but I have a navy pinstripe suit and a medium-grey pinstripe suit at the moment.


I'm pretty sure that I don't like windows.


So, how about a fairly dark charcoal herringbone suit?


Like http://imageshack.us/f/822/26935627.png/ but perhaps a bit more of a charcoal than a black.


I am a graduate working at a Big 4 accounting firm.



My first choice is http://www.dress-for-success.com/ (Rajawongse).


I will be getting shirts and the suit.


What do I need to ask for?


It'll obviously depend on what they have, etc... but, the sort of things I'm looking for are:


Double cotton shirt (I don't really understand this, I just want thick, good quality cotton.. but got told to go Double Cotton)

with split yoke

and mother of pearl buttons

I know the type of collar I want, and the colours and styles.

Some for cufflinks, some not for cufflinks.



good quality material - prob super 100??

2 buttons

light shoulder pads


What else am I missing? What suit/shirt material do I want? My favourite current shirts are Herringbone Sydney branded shirts... if anyone knows what the thick ones of those are like.


My suits are Marc CBD suits are Super 100. They were fantastic at first, but are now a bit ballsy, after only a year. And a pair of pants split. And another pair of pants got a hole inside the pocket.... and I've only had them for a year (and only wore them about 105 times (shared between 2 jackets, 4 pants).


So, can I get 'nice' material that is durable? If so, what do I want?


In my mind, Super 120/150 *IS* less durable than Super 100... but Super 100 wasn't really durable enough for me (though, probably would get it, as opposed to getting a lower quality fabric).


Again, any help would be super appreciated!



post #2 of 22
If Super 100 wasnt durable enough for you then you probably used some crappy fabric. I have suits in 120s and 130s and have had no problem with durability.
post #3 of 22
Herringbone can work, but for you I would suggest the following:
a. solid
b. sharkskin (also called pick and pick)
c. Bird's eye

Any one of those will be appropriate in nearly any professional environment.

Windowpane is normally considered casual or creative - i.e. you could only wear it in a professional situation on a Friday or while visiting a client in the creative arts.

Consider buying a 2nd set of trousers with your suit as you seem to be wearing them hard. If you rotate the trousers, you will get even wear/color fade and your suit purchase should last significantly longer.

Suits wear by rubbing. Look at what in your routine causes rubbing with your suits. Common culprits include seat belts, shoulder bags and desks/chairs.
post #4 of 22
It sounds like you were wearing the shit out of the two suits you had. A larger rotation will help with durability somewhat. There is somewhat of a tradeoff in the feel and durability of worsted wools. But you should be just fine in the 120s and 130s range.

A charcoal herringbone is a solid choice. Mid grey and navy are also good. Consider doing a solid.

Like anything else, getting the fit right is most important.

Good Luck!
post #5 of 22
Nothing wrong with herringbone.

However you should think long and hard about wasting your money on Thailand tailoring. There are the odd places that are OK and we have seen some here BUT as one inexperienced in MTM you are more likely to come to grief than succeed.

I really do not think a few comments here would assist you and it is a long way to go back for changes or to complain. There is the language barrier in the consultation and the likliehood that the tailor will see the oportunity to sell you crap for a high price - you will think you are getting a bargain because that price is low in terms of what you might pay at home, the only stitching up will be you!

Sorry to pour cold water on this but you need to think realities.
post #6 of 22
Thread Starter 

Thanks all for your thoughts. I am VERY open to hearing even more though :) I'll take all advice into consideration.


Taxgenius, thanks for that. I'll get super100 or super120 then. Definitely won't get lower.


Countdemoney, thanks for your thoughts. Are you able to provide any guidance as to your reasons? What is wrong with HErringbone? Like I said, I don't see it around a lot, is there a reason for that? I definitely will get two trousers, and definitely avoid windows.


Cbbuff, yes, a solid charcoal is one of the options I am considering. I'm quite sure I don't want pinstripes, as that would mean all three of my suits were pinstripes. RE: Fit, yes. I have 'budgetted' more than enough fitting sessions in the itinerary ... so I'm not too worried about fit. Mainly quality. :).


GBR. I think you are on the right track. People should think 'long and hard' about it... but, that doesn't mean that people shouldn't do it. I mean, going somewhere a tuk tuk driver takes you after you asked them to take you to the Grand Palace, but they take you to a suit shop is one thing.... and just walking into a tailor off the street randomly and selecting them may not be so great either. However, the tailor I want (linked in OP) seems highly recommended by Google. A few complaints from StyleForumers, but not really from many other people.. Besides, if I don't like the styles, or the fabric, or the service, or the language barrier... if they seem to be strongly pushing me their standard style (perhaps thick shoulder pads, short length)... I can just walk out. At the end of the day, I need a new suit, if this works out fantastically, it'll save me thousands over the years. If it doesn't work out, I waste, say, $400 and move on.


However, even if I do 'waste $400' by getting a crap suit.... I will A: Learn never to do it again. B: Hopefully get a handful of awesome shirts. C: Have the 'tourist experience' of buying tailored clothes in Thailand. D: Have a crappy suit that I don't mind thrashing out to bucks night, or clubbing in Koh Samui, or whatever. Sure, if it's so crap I won't wear it to work... but, I'll still get SOME use out of it.


Additionally, if I was to get Herringbone... do you all think a white and charcoal pattern (similar to that linked in the OP< but more charcoal than black)... or say a charcoal and black pattern?




post #7 of 22
Originally Posted by teacher2 View Post

Countdemoney, thanks for your thoughts. Are you able to provide any guidance as to your reasons? What is wrong with HErringbone? Like I said, I don't see it around a lot, is there a reason for that? I definitely will get two trousers, and definitely avoid windows.

Actually, I love window panes, just not for work.

In your current role you have two goals.
1. build a basic professional wardrobe
2. not stand out from your team, clients or supervisors.

Why I don't think herringbone is the best purchase for you at this time:

1. A business quality herringbone will be small - it will look like stripes at a distance thus another stripe suit in your wardrobe.
2. A wide herringbone will look like it should have been done in tweed or should have been an overcoat in tweed and therefore not professional.
3. A herringbone suit will also preclude you from wearing a herringbone shirt - the size of the two herringbones will clash - limiting you in the start of your wardrobe
4. It's not a common business fabric, potentially making you stand out in the wrong way from your clients and peers.
5. You don't have a solid suit for evening wear, both sharkskin and bird's eye look like solids at a distance, allowing you to have some character and expression to your cloth, but not wedding you to a solid.

Herringbone is beautiful stuff and I have my eye on one from the Harrison Hartwists book (one day, sigh). If you really want a herringbone, I would do it as a tweed sportcoat or as a travel overcoat.

No matter what, at the end of the day, *you* are the one who must be happy with your purchase. So if you still want to go your own way - do it - and don't look back.
post #8 of 22
Thread Starter 

Thank you for your very comprehensive reply. How does this sound then? Birds eye has grown on me. I looked at it last a year ago when I got my current suits, but hadn't really considered it this time. It is now my preferred pattern to purchase next week. Obviously, everything below is subject to talking to the tailor, but.



Charcoal birds eye (like http://www.jaeger.co.uk/images/Suits/AW11SUM280076B00200/AW11SUM280076B00200-cutout-zoom.jpg )

Good quality super 100 or 120 wool
no or very light shoulder padding

single breasted
mid size notch lapels
2 button
'normal' 4 button (not-functional) cuffs (Ie:-> No need for surgeon cuffs).
double vent
bemberg lining – not polyster.

Half canvass (cheaper, quicker to make... and almost as good... in a $400 suit)

Cut and styled (pockets, etc) like the most boring Hugo Boss suit (eg: http://www.averagejoesblog.com/averagejoesblog.com/public_html/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/hugo-boss-tailored-suit.jpg)

slight taper on pants
slight break on pants
single pleat on pants
two working back pockets


For the shirts, I'll bring in one favourite shirt.... but:

Top quality cotton (double cotton?) with split yoke and mother of pearl buttons.

Some with cufflinks, some not.

My major question though, is, do I want double or single pleats? I wanted single pleats... but wikipedia says double is more comfortable (and currently, more 'normal')... if they are more comfortable, I might as well get double pleats... assuming that they are still fashionable?


Thanks so much again,


post #9 of 22
Thread Starter 

Bumpity bump bump bump... plane leaves in about 8 hours or so... any sort of validation (or constructive criticism :P) would still be super appreciated.

post #10 of 22
Originally Posted by teacher2 View Post

My major question though, is, do I want double or single pleats? I wanted single pleats... but wikipedia says double is more comfortable (and currently, more 'normal')... if they are more comfortable, I might as well get double pleats... assuming that they are still fashionable?

Having pleats at all is not really fashionable at the moment, though I expect it may soon swing back that way, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't have them. Personally, if I was going to get pleats, I would have a small single pleat, never double. But this is because I am very slim; if you are larger then the extra comfort of double pleats may be a good idea. It really depends on you.
post #11 of 22
Thread Starter 



Single pleats it is.

post #12 of 22
Get what you like once you see the cloth in person. Enjoy your trip and your new suit.
post #13 of 22

shouldn't solids be the first choice when getting your first bespoke suit? just to be safe, then if you like the quality of the suit and how it was made then later add a few patterns in.

post #14 of 22
If the tailor is good, listen to them on the shoulder padding. Tell them you would like a lightly padded, natural shoulder, but your body shape will determine if you may need a bit more padding than other might.
post #15 of 22

I mostly wear solids to work to maintain a conservative look.

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