New shoes for new suit... advice please

So I picked up this TF suit on the B&S (thanks to Mr. Sam). Now, against my better judgment, I'm considering picking up a pair of G&G's to wear with it (and my other clothes, obviously). I'm just not sure what colours would work. I think I've narrowed it down a bit though:

in midnight blue:


In vintage rioja:


or something like:


I already have a pair of black AE 5th avenues and a lower-end brown plain toe oxford I got for free with another purchase, so I'm looking for something a little different.

Thoughts?

Probably the first pair, but in burgundy. As described, none of the pairs is versatile enough for such a small shoe rotation.

Were you the one who said your shoulders were two sizes bigger than the right chest size in Tom Ford? What size is that?



mensimageconsultant said:

Probably the first pair, but in burgundy. As described, none of the pairs is versatile enough for such a small shoe rotation.

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Yeah, the whole situation is a little odd actually. It sounds like this is one of your only suits? Would these be your only pair of nice shoes? Then you wear these two together whenever you need to wear one? Instead of buying one nice, expensive pair and really only having one nice dress shoe (unless I'm completely wrong), I'd buy a few nice (but less expensive) shoes instead.

Technically shoe 1 is not proper to wear with a suit as it is a derby. To most people this is a minor point as this 'rule' is widely broken. But if you do choose to go that route I thought you should know.

Don't go navy blue or a spectator like the third pair just yet - you need more 'all purpose' shoes in browns, oxblood and burgundy first. Vintage Rioja is a beautiful color. A bit more purple than burgandy, I highly reccommend it.u



Tony Romo said:

Were you the one who said your shoulders were two sizes bigger than the right chest size in Tom Ford? What size is that?

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That's me (though that was your assertion, not mine). The suit is a 44R base B, which means the shoulders are approx. 19" seam-to-seam across the top and the chest fits a 42/43. It's at the right spot for my chest and just at the edge of what my shoulders will fit without being too tight. I still can't figure out how you are getting a 19" shoulder on your 40 jacket unless you are measuring quite differently than I am.

Tony Romo said:

Yeah, the whole situation is a little odd actually. It sounds like this is one of your only suits? Would these be your only pair of nice shoes? Then you wear these two together whenever you need to wear one? Instead of buying one nice, expensive pair and really only having one nice dress shoe (unless I'm completely wrong), I'd buy a few nice (but less expensive) shoes instead.

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I can see where you'd get that, but no. This is actually suit number six of the ones I have in semi-regular rotation - plain and pin stripe navy, taupe, charcoal and mid-grey (I have a couple others that are just for really cold, really hot, or funerals that get pulled out rarely). I also have a few other shoes (black and brown wingtips, a pair of brown captoe boots, dark brown loafers, a burgundy wholecut, and a pair of croc-skin slip-ons). That said, I generally don't wear these with suits, so didn't mention them. In retrospect I probably should have been more detailed to begin with to avoid confusion.

Gdot said:

Technically shoe 1 is not proper to wear with a suit as it is a derby. To most people this is a minor point as this 'rule' is widely broken. But if you do choose to go that route I thought you should know.
Don't go navy blue or a spectator like the third pair just yet - you need more 'all purpose' shoes in browns, oxblood and burgundy first. Vintage Rioja is a beautiful color. A bit more purple than burgandy, I highly reccommend it.u

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Yeah, I'm aware of the derby rule, though, as you say, I know it isn't followed too rigidly. I've seen derby's done quite nicely with suits. I'm also in a non-conservative business dress environment (academia; I could probably wear a leopard print purple thong and flip-flops if I wanted to and no one would bat an eyelash). While most of my outfits actually end up being fairly conservative and "rules bound" I like to use my shoes for a little bit of sprezz.

That said, I am a big fan of the vintage rioja as well. Maybe the derby's in rioja?



GradSchooler said:

That's me (though that was your assertion, not mine). The suit is a 44R base B, which means the shoulders are approx. 19" seam-to-seam across the top and the chest fits a 42/43. It's at the right spot for my chest and just at the edge of what my shoulders will fit without being too tight. I still can't figure out how you are getting a 19" shoulder on your 40 jacket unless you are measuring quite differently than I am.
I can see where you'd get that, but no. This is actually suit number six of the ones I have in semi-regular rotation - plain and pin stripe navy, taupe, charcoal and mid-grey (I have a couple others that are just for really cold, really hot, or funerals that get pulled out rarely). I also have a few other shoes (black and brown wingtips, a pair of brown captoe boots, dark brown loafers, a burgundy wholecut, and a pair of croc-skin slip-ons). That said, I generally don't wear these with suits, so didn't mention them. In retrospect I probably should have been more detailed to begin with to avoid confusion.
Yeah, I'm aware of the derby rule, though, as you say, I know it isn't followed too rigidly. I've seen derby's done quite nicely with suits. I'm also in a non-conservative business dress environment (academia; I could probably wear a leopard print purple thong and flip-flops if I wanted to and no one would bat an eyelash). While most of my outfits actually end up being fairly conservative and "rules bound" I like to use my shoes for a little bit of sprezz.
That said, I am a big fan of the vintage rioja as well. Maybe the derby's in rioja?

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Base B and Base A are very different. I don't believe base B is as common as A either. Can we see a picture of you in the jacket? You can blur your face.



Tony Romo said:

Base B and Base A are very different. I don't believe base B is as common as A either. Can we see a picture of you in the jacket? You can blur your face.

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I didn't know they were that different. Good to know. I don't actually have the jacket on hand right now (I'm out of town until January) but will post a pic when I get a chance.



GradSchooler said:

I didn't know they were that different. Good to know. I don't actually have the jacket on hand right now (I'm out of town until January) but will post a pic when I get a chance.

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Sounds good. I've always wanted to buy a Tom Ford suit (as you can see from my avatar), but I find better use out of 5 suits that total the same price



GradSchooler said:

That's me (though that was your assertion, not mine). The suit is a 44R base B, which means the shoulders are approx. 19" seam-to-seam across the top and the chest fits a 42/43. It's at the right spot for my chest and just at the edge of what my shoulders will fit without being too tight. I still can't figure out how you are getting a 19" shoulder on your 40 jacket unless you are measuring quite differently than I am.
I can see where you'd get that, but no. This is actually suit number six of the ones I have in semi-regular rotation - plain and pin stripe navy, taupe, charcoal and mid-grey (I have a couple others that are just for really cold, really hot, or funerals that get pulled out rarely). I also have a few other shoes (black and brown wingtips, a pair of brown captoe boots, dark brown loafers, a burgundy wholecut, and a pair of croc-skin slip-ons). That said, I generally don't wear these with suits, so didn't mention them. In retrospect I probably should have been more detailed to begin with to avoid confusion.
Yeah, I'm aware of the derby rule, though, as you say, I know it isn't followed too rigidly. I've seen derby's done quite nicely with suits. I'm also in a non-conservative business dress environment (academia; I could probably wear a leopard print purple thong and flip-flops if I wanted to and no one would bat an eyelash). While most of my outfits actually end up being fairly conservative and "rules bound" I like to use my shoes for a little bit of sprezz.
That said, I am a big fan of the vintage rioja as well. Maybe the derby's in rioja?

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I think those derbies in vintage rioja would be a stellar choice. You might also find a similar model (Uppingham but with a captoe) on the Bespoke England site ready to wear as opposed to waiting for MTO.

I don't advise the leopard print purple thong with flip flops until after Labor Day. What with my prudish ways and all.

^ Damn. And I wore that all summer. Not the same one mind you. I have a rotation.

So I'm sensing love for the derby in vintage rioja. In terms of versatility, what wouldn't that work with (colour wise)? I often wear purple shirts and ties and I can't see that really working with a rioja shoe. Am i wrong?



Tony Romo said:

Base B and Base A are very different. I don't believe base B is as common as A either. Can we see a picture of you in the jacket? You can blur your face.

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actually Base B is just as common as Base A. Base B is a little more fitted than Base A but the biggest difference is that Base B's are all 3 roll 2 jackets and Base A's are 2 button. Base B's pants are also trimmer. I prefer the Base A jackets and Base B pants but I have both suits.



KenRose said:

actually Base B is just as common as Base A. Base B is a little more fitted than Base A but the biggest difference is that Base B's are all 3 roll 2 jackets and Base A's are 2 button. Base B's pants are also trimmer. I prefer the Base A jackets and Base B pants but I have both suits.

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Is it as common? The Dallas Neiman's doesn't even carry Base B.

Brown won't go too nicely with that colour of grey. I'd suggest black.

Ich_Dien said:

Brown won't go too nicely with that colour of grey. I'd suggest black.

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+1