Gun Club Tweed jacket and waistcoat, critique please

ter1413 · May 14, 2011

Originally Posted by Maccimus

Maybe we should browse the WAYWRN thread and DTO some members' look..

i will just go with the suggestions above: brown/blue/charcoal. that was my thought but wanted to know if you had some other ideas...like ur SC...

heaven7 · May 14, 2011

The jacket looks great, fit looks spot on and the pattern matching doesn't look bad at all.
The waistcoat does look a bit assymetrical but it's certainly far from unwearable!

Maccimus · May 14, 2011

My mother is trying to adjust the buttons on the waistcoat for me. See if this can help to balance the two pieces..

GBR · May 14, 2011

The waist coat is dreadful sadly.

AlexE · May 14, 2011

Originally Posted by Maccimus

The problem is quite visible on the waistcoat. You see the imbalance between left piece and the right piece.

First, I really like the fit of both jacket and waistcoat.

Regarding the pattern issues: I can't find something worth mentioning on the jacket (and I really tried + I am veeeery anal about pattern matching). I saw what you mean on the waistcoat, but only after searching for mismatched patterns. Not a big issue either IMHO.

Generally it is very hard to achieve perfect symmetry with bespoke clothing since the cut is adjusted to the asymmetries of your body. Even when looking at patterned suits made by the biggest names on Savile Row, you can find asymmetries. Look for example at the attached screenshot of Simon Cundey of Henry Poole: There is quite some asymmetry between the left and right collar - most likely due to asymmetric shoulders.

Maccimus · May 14, 2011

Yes the bias on the jacket is very slight, not visible from distance. But I am still bit sad. As I mentioned in last thread, in the very first basted fitting, they mistakenly fused the front parts. And the pattern match was completely perfect at that time...

Sanguis Mortuum · May 14, 2011

Originally Posted by AlexE

Look for example at the attached screenshot of Simon Cundey of Henry Poole: There is quite some asymmetry between the left and right collar - most likely due to asymmetric shoulders.

This is something that would be impossible to match without compromising the fit though (or compromising the matching at the back of the collar); this is not the case for simply cutting the fronts of a waistcoat so they match along the CF.

Frankly though, the waistcoat is close enough that 99.999% of people won't even notice.

AlexE · May 14, 2011

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

This is something that would be impossible to match without compromising the fit though (or compromising the matching at the back of the collar)

Agree - and fit as well as pattern matching at the back are more important.

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

Frankly though, the waistcoat is close enough that 99.999% of people won't even notice.

As I said, without being told to specifically look for pattern mismatching, I would not have realized it.

AE7 · May 14, 2011

Originally Posted by AlexE

There is quite some asymmetry between the left and right collar - most likely due to asymmetric shoulders.

In this case it is just a poor craftsmanship. This is guy is not that crippled to not to make it possible to match patterns on the lapels. Good reason not to buy Henry Poole stuff for me.

AlexE · May 14, 2011

Originally Posted by AE7

In this case it is just a poor craftsmanship. This is guy is not that crippled to not to make it possible to match patterns on the lapels. Good reason not to buy Henry Poole stuff for me.

Strong statement considering that you can't judge from the picture how asymmetric the guys shoulders are, don't you think so? Also, the asymmetry is visible, but not that extreme. So I could imagine that the differences are really due to body asymmetries and not poor craftmanship.

Edgar Allan Pwn · May 15, 2011

Originally Posted by AE7

In this case it is just a poor craftsmanship. This is guy is not that crippled to not to make it possible to match patterns on the lapels.
It doesn't look like there is much more than 1/4" difference between one side and the other. Hardly what I would call a 'crippled' asymmetry, which, incidentally, was a rather insensitive choice of words.

Originally Posted by AE7

Good reason not to buy Henry Poole stuff for me.
Don't worry, we wouldn't dream of buying you anything from Henry Poole!

Maccimus · May 15, 2011

Well, my mother lowered the buttons by 1cm. It works!

TheFoo · May 15, 2011

It looks really good--except, I don't understand the existence of the waistcoat.

Maccimus · May 15, 2011

Originally Posted by mafoofan

It looks really good--except, I don't understand the existence of the waistcoat.
There are some residual fabrics, so..

TheFoo · May 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Maccimus

There are some residual fabrics, so..

I would have kept it for future repairs. I can't fathom making use of such a waistcoat.

But the jacket looks pretty damned good.

Gun Club Tweed jacket and waistcoat, critique please

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