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HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker

BBC

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Anyone recognize this label? The name on the insole is worn out. They're a pair of light brown brouged punch caps that were made in England.

er5007.jpg
 

twosaabs

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Trying to determine if these shoes I picked up, lightly used, are Shell or Calf. They are Church's - Prima Classe - Made in Italy. Would any one have an idea from the photos? Also, any idea of the approximate original price??

 

onix

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Originally Posted by twosaabs
Trying to determine if these shoes I picked up, lightly used, are Shell or Calf. They are Church's - Prima Classe - Made in Italy. Would any one have an idea from the photos? Also, any idea of the approximate original price??

Bookbinder calf.
 

twosaabs

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Thanks, Onix. Can you tell me anything about Bookbinder Calf. Are you familiar with this line of shoes and what their approximate original selling price was?

Thanks for your help. You helped me I.D. another pair of shoes a few weeks ago. Much appreciated
 

onix

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Originally Posted by twosaabs
Thanks, Onix. Can you tell me anything about Bookbinder Calf. Are you familiar with this line of shoes and what their approximate original selling price was?

Thanks for your help. You helped me I.D. another pair of shoes a few weeks ago. Much appreciated


- Bookbinder is Church's term for corrected grain leather. Basically, it's calf leather with inferior cosmetic property, hence got "processed" to this type of shiny leather. The major con of it is that you can't polish them, and once the shine is gone, it's gone (since it doesn't absorb polish very well). Of course, the major pro of it is that you don't need to polish them, some quick brush would be suffice.
- When new, corrected grain leather can look a lot like shell, hence some can't tell. However, after being worn, the crease is characteristically different (micro-crease in non-shell, smooth-crease in shell).
- Church's Prima Classe is now discontinued (I believe), but they're a step (or two) below Church's highest line, the "Custom Grade".
- About price, check your PM
 
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This thread is super helpful, props to all of the contributors. thumbs up!
 

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