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post #76 of 94
I told him I wanted as little padding as possible.
post #77 of 94
The softest shoulder they do is called the Super J Press. It shouldn't look like that. Mine is much less structured.
post #78 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by HEPennypacker View Post

While I was taking pics of my latest Chan, I thought I'd also take one of the sport coat Elio made:

By contrast, here is the Chan that was made a few months later with similar instructions regarding fit:

I had a basted fitting with Chan, but that still involved fewer trips and much less time than going to E/A. Of course, the Chan was a good deal more expensive, but it's not like Elio's sport coat was what I would call cheap (around $700-800, as I recall).
Anyway, if the first pic is your style, then by all means go to E/A. Otherwise, I would avoid them.

Chan by a mile.
post #79 of 94
Perhaps against my better judgment given some of the pictures and feedback in this thread, I'm making the trip to EA today for a fitting. I've typed up a pretty long list of specifications, with references to the Tom James website where possible (e.g. "Super J Press" shoulder, high gorge lapel, open quarters, high armscye, rolled instead of creased lapels, etc.) and plan on wearing my best-fitting trousers and bringing a couple of jackets to give examples as to what I want in terms of fit.

The allure of a nice, substantial H&S cloth is what is really drawing me. I am sick of the paperweight Italian stuff that seems to dominate in this price range.
post #80 of 94
everything looks a size too large
if he puts a size 40 on you.
ask to see a 39 or 38 as well
post #81 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

everything looks a size too large
if he puts a size 40 on you.
ask to see a 39 or 38 as well

That is good to know. I usually consider myself a very slim 40R but the jackets I'm bringing are unsized/untagged so I will insist that I wear a 38R.
post #82 of 94
The other thing is that this will be my new staple charcoal suit and needs to be able to do CBD duty, so I'm not looking for some super-soft, curvy Italian number - just trying to avoid the boxiness I see in some of these default options.
post #83 of 94
You are going to have to fight him if you don't want a very full break. "But people will see your socks when you walk."
post #84 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by KObalto View Post

Quarters are quite closed on the EA. Which shoulder did you request?

KObalto - could you explain this so a noob can understand? - "Quarters are quite closed on the EA"? TIA
post #85 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by GHo View Post

KObalto - could you explain this so a noob can understand? - "Quarters are quite closed on the EA"? TIA

It refers to the cutaway from the last buttonhole to the bottom of the jacket. Look at the way the Chan jacket had a nice curve from the buttonhole down whereas the EA has more of a rounded corner.

For the record, I think HEPennypacker's jacket looks quite good other than the quarters.
post #86 of 94
My suit from them has open quarters. You just have to specify so Elio doesn't go to his default cut. Looking at the options on the TJ website, as Prozach did, is essential.
post #87 of 94
HP's EA coat isn't too bad, but I'd take the shoulders in a bit, rotate the sleeves and open the quarters. The Chan looks more fitted (not just slim). But I'd drop the patch pockets a half inch and lower the lapel roll, unless you prefer a 3 roll 2.5.

Speaking of 3r2.5, have any of you guys gone to Everard's in DC? If I lived in the DC area, that's where I'd go. He offers mtm Hickey Freeman stuff, and he has a tailor on the premises who can do other little tweaks. He has a great eye for fit. I recommended him a few years ago to a friend, and he's been back for a couple more suits. It's probably more expensive than EA, but the workmanship is probably better and he sometimes has sales on the HF mtm.
post #88 of 94
Hey guys - I hope this doesn't derail the thread, but since many of you are likely in the area, just wanted to make sure everyone knows about the DC meetup next month - check out the link in my signature for more details.
post #89 of 94
I just got back from my trip to EA and I'd have to say that I had a positive experience and I'm quite confident I'm going to be happy with the finished product.

True to what I expected based on this thread, he was opinionated about certain things, but I came prepared with a detailed list of what I wanted and stood my ground. It helped that I wore a well-tailored suit and was conversant in its measurements - especially so for things like fitting the trousers. He only pushed back a little on minimal break and sleeve length. We probably haggled the most about the length of the jacket (and he was probably right). Interestingly, their "house" cut comes with quite open quarters - they seemed fine in the try-on jackets - but he said that he always pushes for them to be closed when people come into the showroom.

He definitely wants you to go with the bolts of H&S fabric that he owns and has hanging on the wall, which run $795. Some H&S bolts are on consignment and are $895 or $995. Anything ordered out of the H&S books is $995. This was the one place where I wavered. I went in wanting a heavier 13oz worsted, which would have come out of the books, but ended up with a ~10oz Super 140s worsted that was hanging on the wall. It felt really nice and it seemed worthwhile to save $200 on my first order. He had some beautiful fabrics on hand though and I was bummed that my needs are for a super conservative charcoal.

Anyway, as I said, I came away feeling good about the process and suspect that EA will be my new source for workhorse suits.
post #90 of 94
Thans for the report. Please let us know how the final suit fits. I'm guessing you will be quite surprised at the break based on my experience.
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