Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Top 10 tailors in america
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Top 10 tailors in america - Page 2

post #16 of 76
to marc, i think the important thing is that cherrytree is happy with the final product. perhaps this apprentice should wise up and go into business for himself.
post #17 of 76
i'd like to add one more thing to this thread. i know for a fact that my tailor does not make my suits himself. this is not kept a secret. he has a workshop downstairs from his shop, where his employees stitch together the garments. if you were to go to him for a suit, he would help you choose a fabric, discuss the details of the suit's style with you, and take your measurements. he then creates a pattern and cuts the fabric himself. after this point, he gives the cloth to his workers (who have been trained by him) and they get to doing the busy work. there will be a couple of fittings involved during the process, during which he'll make chalk marks, note any changes, etc... what i'm saying is that ultimately the suit is his creation because he makes the pattern and cuts the fabric. there's no need for him to spend endless hours sewing when someone else could do it for less money. if you look at fresco paintings by some of the great renaissance artists, much of the coloring and background was actually done by apprentices. the master needs only be responsible for the most important stages.
post #18 of 76
Thread Starter 
post #19 of 76
Thread Starter 
post #20 of 76
Thread Starter 
post #21 of 76
To Marc: Anyone can make assertions. Where's your proof, even if it's anecdotal?
post #22 of 76
banksmiranda - i have had shirts made at Geneva, and they are very good quality, and at more reasonable prices than Kabbaz. The fit has always been spot-on, he has a good range of fabrics on offer, and you can work with Mike, the proprietor and patternmaker, to achieve just what you want (specifying double-thick MOP buttons, for example). The shirts are machine-sewn, but fine single-needle tailoring. I think this business of hand-sewing many shirt seams is just so much an issue of bragging rights ("my shirt is hand-sewn on the collars, cuffs, etc."), and doesn't necessarily add endurance to the garment.
post #23 of 76
Thread Starter 
post #24 of 76
Regarding Geneva---Someone I know who runs a well-respected store in NYC selling some of the finest RTW shirts and ties buys his custom shirts from Geneva and recommends them highly. Geneva used to make shirts for the legendary Sulka, as well as for numerous other prestigious stores (Bergdorf Goodman is one) Regarding Paris---Based on personal experience, I cannot recommend Paris. I had several shirts made that turned out to be terribly tight-fitting, to the point where the pleats on the upper back were perpetually open. They were unwearable, but at the outset the owner and his son said they felt the fit would be right for me--wrong. Not for nuthin', as we say in NY, but the owner's biographical honesty is in question: He claims that he originally worked at Charvet, hence the name Paris Shirts. However, in speaking with the owners of Charvet about this claim, they say this is absolutely not true, and they never have heard of him. Not that this necessarily matters when it comes to the end result of the shirts they make, but I nevertheless found it interesting. You might want to try Davide Cenci shirts as the company first made its prestigious reputation as a shirtmaker.
post #25 of 76
To Steve B: You're being naiive. I've spoken with tailors who have told me about being approached by the writer in question. I was also in Len Logsdail's shop when the writer in question was being fitted for a suit--You really think the writer was paying for the suit? And, it's just a coincidence that he wrote a glowing article about Logsdail.
post #26 of 76
steve, i would say that fashion writing is a form of journalism, and at the very least the writer should mention that he is a client of any business he writes about and is a client of.
post #27 of 76
Marc: I confess I was indignant at first. I did some checking on my own, and now I'm curious about your sources...Those who do what you say try to keep it a well guarded secret. I was particularly curious about the writer in question because he recently provided me with a great endorsement quote for my book, without asking for anything in return. And was quite gracious about it. In fact, when I contacted him, he already had a copy of the book I assume he purchased himself. Being a budding fashion journalist/writer myself I'm not sure what I'd do if a tailor (or anyone else) offered me a free suit. If you really appreciate fine clothes, it'd be hard to turn them down, and as stated in a thread here a while back, fashion writers don't make much money. But I don't think I'd approach people looking for freebies. My present policy is that I will accept discounts (which have been offered and accepted), but not freebies unless I offer books or something similar in trade. But a lot of my book is about finding things at a discount, so I don't see a conflict. Perhaps I need to revise the policy...
post #28 of 76
i say go ahead and accept discounts and even free merchandise, as long as you give honest information to your readers. also, remember that most restaurant reviewers do not announce to their waiter, "i'm such and such from the l.a. times and i'll be reviewing your restaurant tonight." do you walk into stores and tell them you're a fashion writer?
post #29 of 76
I was also in Len Logsdail's shop when the writer in question was being fitted for a suit--You really think the writer was paying for the suit?  And, it's just a coincidence that he wrote a glowing article about Logsdail.
Do you have any evidence that he didn't pay for it? If not, then cut the innuendo. It should hardly be surprising that someone will patronize those businesses that he respects. What would it say if Boyer wrote glowing things about a maker and refused to shop there? I don't know a thing about Boyer other than that I like his writing, but I don't think that it's fair to darken his reputation on the basis of hearsay and gossip.
post #30 of 76
Steve: I guess it depends on the content of your writing; in other words, if what you are writing is a description of a store's merchandise, when they have sales, etc., then I think accepting a discount is okay, since it is hard to see how the discount would greatly affect what you write (although even here you by definition are making decisions, such as which stores to even mention, how much space to give, the tone of the information, etc). However, if you start to venture into the realm of making recommendations, then I think there is a problem. I think that journalism should carry with it a very high standard of propriety and disclosure; if there is ever a possibility that your advice is being influenced by the acts of the people/stores about whom you are writing, I think there is a problem. The big issue that Marc's comments have raised is that the individuals in question are seen (and portray themselves) as experts, and the assumption is that their advice and opinions are uncolored by financial incentives. What is the difference between accepting a free suit and just taking a bribe to write positive comments? While you could argue that the free suit allows the "journalist" to learn about the proprietors' merchandise, I think the bottom line is this looks too much like a "quid pro quo"; what do you think the proprietor would say if the journalist wrote scathing comments about the merchandise' s quality after giving it away. I almost guarantee that the proprietor would feel cheated and mislead. While the "journalist's" opinions and comments might be unaffected by these gifts, even the appearance of impropriety is unacceptable. Perhaps you should get a copy of the standards and ethics of something like the NY Times and see what they allow; I'll bet they don't allow anything like this. I also don't quite see how accepting a discount is okay just because you are writing about discount fashion; if the discount isn't available to me or somebody else who walks in off the street, I think this justification is a red herring. Should an author of an article about how to bargain for a good deal on a new car accept a free car (i.e. a 100% discount) from a given dealership? Unfortunately, the ethical standards of journalism seems to have declined in the past few years; I encourage you to think about how you hope others would behave if you were going to rely on their advice. If there is the possibility of bias (not the likelihood or certainty), I say it is best to avoid the behavior -- if you want to call yourself a journalist.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Top 10 tailors in america