Minnis flannel 305 or 306

Originally Posted by Manton

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Lesser/Harrison/Smith/Drapers -- all of these flannels are softer than Minnsi, which is tough as nails (despite being 100% woolen).

The navy stripe is Harrison and it's also a bit firm, though much less than Minnis. If it's just kinda soft you want, those are good choices- if you're looking for Cucinelli-type soft, go with an Italian cloth.

H&S has some flannel with 5% cashmere which are much softer than Minnis. LP also has great flannely cloth but dont know whether you will be open to Italian cloth

Originally Posted by aj_del

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H&S has some flannel with 5% cashmere which are much softer than Minnis.
I have some. Far lower quality.

Originally Posted by TRINI

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the 300/301 are also on my list of potential projects.

I have had stuff made with both 300 and 301. As others have said, they are not super soft, but I don't think they are as uncomfortable as aj_del seems to think. I like them, but you should understand that they won't be all soft and cuddly.

I have trousers in the 0317 and a sportscoat out of 0340. Lovely cloth. At the back of the book there are some blue cloths with a small amount of cashmere added that have a beautiful finish to them. They would be great for a blazer. I have a jacket length for this purpose.

Slewfoot had a DB W.W. Chan suit made up in the Minnis Air Force Blue...0304...PM to see if he can provide a further cloth review update

Vox is having 0316 made up (gorgeous chocolate brown with a beige chalkstripe...check the latest A&S threads).

I found the Minnis 300 range flannels to be a bit lighter than what I desired & was worried they would be too soft for my style of structured suits. But based on Jeffreyd's comments of them being firm...I might try it after all as their chocolate brown 0307, RAF chalkstripe 0315 & the aforementioned 0316 look gorgeous. If I want a lightweight flannel...I might try the 0304 after all

Andrew Rogers has access to Harrisons' solid color flannels also. They seemed a bit softer to me

I have opted to use Gorina, www.gorina.es . They are based in Barcelona, Spain. E-mail Anna Duran at duran at gorina.es. She writes in English and will dispatch samples & e-mail photos. They directly deal with consumers and payment/delivery via credit cards. I am in the process of purchasing Gorina's 540-570 gram woollen flannels in a variety of solid colors. I already own a Donkey and an Air Force Blue flannels. My tailor was really impressed by their quality and the flannel is a tad bit shaved...not a traditional fuzzy woollen flannel (like the 0305 Minnis)...but a nice balance between a fuzzy woollen and a worsted flannel.

Dugdale is an alternative choice for a bit softer and more competitively priced flannels in the 13-14oz range. www.dugdalebro.com
Its easy to register...and you'll get the password quickly. Their pictures are good, they respond quickly by e-mail, quickly dispatch cloth samples, and deal directly with consumers...with online payment via credit card or Paypal.

Sator's forum...the Cutter & Tailor has plenty of reviews of various flannel ranges, whether it be Harrisons, Dugdale...etc.
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum...p?showforum=10
Note: on page 2 & 3 of the above link, one can find the reviews

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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The charcoal is Minnis. I also have a DB in 300 but don't have a photo of it. I agree that they are a bit firm, but that's ok for a structured garment.

jeffrey, I like the shirt collar, is that your creation?

Originally Posted by edmorel

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jeffrey, I like the shirt collar, is that your creation?

Ascot Chang.

jeffreyd, you nailed the **** out of this one, man. WOW. Really swell work.

Originally Posted by Bull

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jeffreyd, you nailed the **** out of this one, man. WOW. Really swell work.
Thank you. In these few photos we see both extremes of the structure spectrum.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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Thank you. In these few photos we see both extremes of the structure spectrum.

One question, as I look at this coat more. How do you decide where to place the breast pocket?

Phat Guido always goes for high patch breast pocket placement, whereas this one looks slightly low. Is there a science to it? Does it depend upon the physique of the client, or is it purely based on taste?

Trini, sorry to hijack your thread, chief!

Originally Posted by Bull

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How do you decide where to place the breast pocket?


Depends on a few things. Most often it is placed relative to the breast line and armhole but the lapel may place a role in its placement so as not to cover it up too much.

Oh, and Trini, when I said go for Italian cloth for soft and slouchy, this is the kind of soft and slouchy I was talking about. This is how much padding is in the shoulder

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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Oh, and Trini, when I said go for Italian cloth for soft and slouchy, this is the kind of soft and slouchy I was talking about. This is how much padding is in the shoulder

This is the soft and slouchy that I like.

Originally Posted by TRINI

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This is the soft and slouchy that I like.

Agreed. That looks sumptuous. Well done Jeffrey.

Trini - to answer your question, I prefer 305, but I have a DB suit in 304 the AFB and it is definitely my favorite of the bunch. I've received more compliments on that suit than any other. I can't wait until it's warm enough to wear again.