Asian Trip, Rank Tailors

denny123 · May 22, 2010

Note: As you will see, I have spent a considerable amount of time searching before this post.

I'm planning on taking at least a several week vacation to Asia next summer, and am looking to purchase some suits(yes same statement 100 other posts started with). But specifically I'm posting to A) get some quality ranking's on a list of Asian tailors, and B) get some questions answered. I don't want to be off in my assessment of quality here and want the least amount of surprises.

Of the tailor's I've read about so far, I'm going to divide the tailors into two lists based on price range. Those are ones that start at $800+ and those that start at less than that.

I totally realize that for a lot of folks this is a tough thing to judge. So, a reply that even guesses that one tailor might be "better quality on average" is still helpful because that is all I am doing right now(guessing based on some forum pics, and comments). If you've experienced 2 or more of these tailors before and I have the order wrong of quality please post. If you're reading of these forums points that one of these tailors should be higher on the list please post. If you have another tailor that should fit in this please post(Hopefully spammers will stay at bay).

This is my guess at rankings for quality of work for the cheaper category(the one I'm more curious about now).

1. Hahn's - Seoul, South Korea
1. Savile Row - Seoul, South Korea
3. Dung - Saigon, Vietnam
3. Lam Couture - Saigon, Vietnam
5. Baron Boutique - Kathmandu, Nepal
6. Pinky's - Bangkok, Thailand
7. Narin Couture - Bangkok, Thailand
8. Milan Suit - Bangkok, Thailand

More Expensive List
1. Gordon Yao - Hong Kong
1. WW Chan - Hong Kong, and Shanghai, and US tour.
3. A Man Hing Cheong - Hong Kong
3. Y William Yu - Hong Kong
5. Zenith - Seoul, South Korea
6. Other South Korean tailors in the COEX building
7. Judy's - Bangkok, Thailand
8. Art's - Bangkok, Thailand

Shirts: The Best Value List
1. Ascot Chang - Hong Kong and Manila, Philippines
1. Jantzen - Hong Kong
1. Lam Couture - Saigon, Vietnam
4. Narin Couture - Bangkok, Thailand

Again please help if this ordering is in anyway off.

Questions:
1. I've been reading that Jantzen might be falling right now in quality, customer service, and timeliness. Are there any forum members that have switched from Jantzen to another tailor because of this. Or is the value just so superior there is no point in looking elsewhere.
2. I intend to bring my own fabric probably from How6955 as I don't intend to waste more than $200 on fabric for a mistake suit on the first trip. Which of these tailors charge a different rate for bringing your own fabric?(obviously don't expect people to know them all, but if you know of one on the list please post) Please describe the percent or dollar increase in tailoring(cmt) if fabric is provided by me.
3. Any hassles I should be aware of for bringing my own fabric to these tailors. Import taxes/duties isn't a problem in Hong Kong and apparently no longer in Vietnam either.
4. I plan on picking at least 2 tailors if not 4 in the end. I would like to have my measurements on file for potential repeat business ordered via phone, email, or online. Which of these tailors would you say are safe for remote business after they have your correct measurements(that fits) on file?
5. Anything else you feel I should be aware of.

denny123 · May 22, 2010

For purposes of making this thread useful for others reading it I'm providing these resources I've gathered in my reading. From another poster(sorry I copy and pasted to Word file a while ago and don't know who to give credit too). Mention it in the thread and I'll edit it.

Here's something I posted a while ago that could help with this topic (edited for clarity): Jacket - Lapel width - Gorge height - Real or false lapel buttonhole - Button stance (high, normal, low) - Breast pocket height (high, normal, low) - Shoulder padding - Armholes (tight, normal, loose) - Sleeve taper/circumference - Real or false sleeve buttonholes - Number of sleeve buttons - Sleevel buttons normal or "kissing" - Jetted or flapped pockets - Single, double, or no vents - Jacket length (long, normal, short) - Inside pockets (up to you) Many of these options depend on your own body shape. Trousers- Button or zipper fly - Pockets (on the seam or slightly angled) - Rear pockets (both buttoned, one buttoned) - Fork height (tight, normal, loose) - Leg taper - Leg width - Cuffed (height of cuff) or plain - Single, double, or no pleats, forward or reverse - Tab closure above fly - Belt loops or brace buttons You might want to consider the silhouette that's best for you. You can use a RTW suit that you like as a base model. Your first suit probably won't have EVERYTHING you want it to have, simply because 1) you forget some detail or fail to prompt for it, or 2) the guy making it forgets or fails to ask. Communication is KEY. Guidelines I use: I'm short. I'm thin. My jacket therefore has the following: - Lapel width: A little more than half the space between the edge of the "V" and the shoulder seam - Gorge height: Very high - Real or false lapel buttonhole: Real (of course. - Button stance (high, normal, low): High two-button, with the topmost button a little above my natural waist. - Breast pocket height (high, normal, low): Normal, but my next one will be a quarter-inch higher because I'm picky. - Shoulder padding: Minimal. - Armholes (tight, normal, loose): Tight, meaning high. - Sleeve taper/circumference: More so than usual, thanks to my thin wrists. - Real or false sleeve buttonholes: Real. But this is entirely up to you. I chose real because I think the false ones look a bit too goofy, or at least the way they make false ones over here. - Number of sleeve buttons: 4, but this has nothing to do with my body shape. - Sleevel buttons normal or "kissing": Same here, nothing to do with my body shape. But I like kissing buttons. - Jetted or flapped pockets: Flapped, because that's what Flusser recommends and because I sort of like them. - Single, double, or no vents: I always go double. The vents end right at the height of my pockets. - Jacket length (long, normal, short): Short. I hate how longer jackets make me look. - Inside pockets (up to you): I don't use them much for anything. I think I have two regular buttoned pockets, one pen pocket, and one for a cell phone or something. Remember: If you're getting a short, fitted jacket, get pants that either break lightly or rest on the top of your shoe. If you're going for a more roomy fit, get roomier trousers with a larger break. Nothing is more awkward than seeing a guy with a roomy jacket wearing rail-thin trousers. The whole idea is to make the transition from jacket to trousers a consistent one. Also, the list is by no means comprehensive. A large part of a bespoke suit's styling will depend on the cooperation and vision of both customer and tailor. The best bet for "newbies" going bespoke is to model their suit after something RTW that they find the most appealing to their body. (Alias)

Link to the excellent lonelyplanet thread on Thailand tailors. http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntre...readID=1207953 Link to the good flyertalk talk thread on Bangkok Tailors page 9 is when Soju comes in with the best advice. http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/thail...tailors-9.html Link to a blog that compiled a bunch of the best styleforum threads on Asian tailors. http://sleevehead.blogspot.com/2008/...-to-hong.html/ Link to a tailor forum http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?act=idx Link to good fabric thread http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=9472 Will probably add more links later. Also will add any other good links provided by others on here. P.S. I want to extend my thanks to everybody that have made my searching, reading, research, etc. easier than I'm sure it was for them.

dragon8 · May 22, 2010

I know Gordon Yao lets you bring your own fabric and charges $710 USD to make the suit for you.

dragon8 · May 22, 2010

Ascot Chang is probably the best shirtmaker in HK. I thought someone posted that you could bring your own shirting material to them.

daruma · May 22, 2010

are you only going to those countries? if you can go to the philippines, i recommend bbaquirans tailor jr. very very good. ive got suits from chan and jrs suit while not better, are just as good. full canvassed, complete bespoke, he charged me $400 (i sent him my fabric) + shipping.

u just have to be very very specific when it comes to telling him what uw ant

columbia92 · May 22, 2010

Originally Posted by daruma

are you only going to those countries? if you can go to the philippines, i recommend bbaquirans tailor jr. very very good. ive got suits from chan and jrs suit while not better, are just as good. full canvassed, complete bespoke, he charged me $400 (i sent him my fabric) + shipping.

u just have to be very very specific when it comes to telling him what uw ant

I've lived in Manila for a few years in the past. Where is bbaquirans tailor jr located?

daruma · May 22, 2010

i really dont know because i only order through him via email haha sorry

denny123 · May 22, 2010

Originally Posted by daruma

are you only going to those countries? if you can go to the philippines, i recommend bbaquirans tailor jr. very very good. ive got suits from chan and jrs suit while not better, are just as good. full canvassed, complete bespoke, he charged me $400 (i sent him my fabric) + shipping. u just have to be very very specific when it comes to telling him what uw ant
You really got a perfectly fitting suit with emailing your measurements and no fittings? Do you have pics of your suit? There have been no other comments online about this particular tailor so I think I can join everyone in asking for pics before we even start looking to rank it. Looking forward to seeing them because $400 is a pretty good deal for custom tailoring, but I'm curious to see the quality?

denny123 · May 22, 2010

Originally Posted by dragon8

Ascot Chang is probably the best shirtmaker in HK. I thought someone posted that you could bring your own shirting material to them.
Is there any potential savings to bringing AC your own fabric? I've also got the impression from the forums that Ascot Chang in the best HK shirtmaker, but the forums also seem to point that Jantzen is pretty close for considerably cheaper. But I am curious as to whether others believe AC is a better value?

mishon · May 22, 2010

While I have no knowledge of Asian tailors, I hope some of the forumites who do answer this thread or send the OP a PM since he obviously put it a lot of time writing and researching the subject matter.

denny123 · May 22, 2010

Originally Posted by dragon8

I know Gordon Yao lets you bring your own fabric and charges $710 USD to make the suit for you.

How much would the suit run if you went with his fabric? I.E. is there any up charge on using his fabric? Is this a good way to get suits from Gordon Yao made cheaper than his standard prices using his fabric.

denny123 · May 22, 2010

Originally Posted by mishon

While I have no knowledge of Asian tailors, I hope some of the forumites who do answer this thread or send the OP a PM since he obviously put it a lot of time writing and researching the subject matter.

Thank you I appreciate the comment. Yeah a good ~80 hours of reading in my case. Don't want to come on and ask questions that everybody asks because they refuse to research first.

daruma · May 22, 2010

Originally Posted by denny123

You really got a perfectly fitting suit with emailing your measurements and no fittings?

Do you have pics of your suit? There have been no other comments online about this particular tailor so I think I can join everyone in asking for pics before we even start looking to rank it.

Looking forward to seeing them because $400 is a pretty good deal for custom tailoring, but I'm curious to see the quality?

we initially started off with shirts then trousers then a suit. the suit was mailed back and forth (he had some options, either fully finished or basted, i chose basted first). i had to shoulder the shipping fees back and forth though. i had that chan suit which i measured like 20 spots then i emailed them to him. ive really been meaning to get pics up but just been too busy to even buy a cam. bbaquiran has some stuff up in the manila tailor thread

dragon8 · May 22, 2010

Originally Posted by denny123

Is there any potential savings to bringing AC your own fabric?

I've also got the impression from the forums that Ascot Chang in the best HK shirtmaker, but the forums also seem to point that Jantzen is pretty close for considerably cheaper. But I am curious as to whether others believe AC is a better value?

That would depend on the quality of the fabrics. AC shirts begin at $150 and go up to $400. I honestly have no idea how much shirting fabrics cost or how many yards/meters but I'm assuming you do save money by providing your own fabrics. Ac used to be cheaper but the dollar plunge that occurred years ago inflated their prices.

Jantzen seems to be hit or miss and if you're in HK I'm sure the fit would be better than ordering off the internet

Svenn · May 22, 2010

Wow, this is the most ambitious attempt at a comprehensive Asian tailor list I think I've seen! If it actually does get completed, it deserves to be pinned.

But my concern is that there's probably no one here who has enough experience to really rank these tailors, not to mention the fact that various clients have different levels of knowledge about what is quality tailoring, and the tailors themselves don't always make consistent products. Like with the Thai tailors- some threads you'll read say so-and-so is more careful and skillfull than WW Chan, others will say the same guy just threw an unfitted sack suit at 'em.

I've spent a few years browsing around SF and always the most consistent, detailed, and apparently knowledgeable reviews of tailors pretty much always puts WW Chan at the top. I've resigned myself to just save up and use them... if you're paying $1000 for a plane ticket to Asia, it really doesn't make sense to gamble on a cheaper tailor someone said was superior. I've read too that Chan is set up more for ignorant young guys to get their first expensive suit- i.e. they're good at consulting and divining what look you're trying to achieve... as opposed to the the cheaper guys like Yao who may be better craftsman, but need you to give all the direction.

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