Bespoke Sport Jacket Sleeve Length

So, I'm buying my first Sport Jacket and I chose to go bespoke with a local tailor, who is maybe one of the only bespoke tailors in Alberta. He is Italian, and was trained in Italy (if that matters at all). Today I went in for a fitting and the jacket was basically complete, which is different than what I had seen on this forum where people get fitted when the jacket is still in the beginning stages of construction.

I know nothing about jackets or suits, other than what I am learning on this site, the Details book, and the Esquire book that I have purchased. When I tried on the jacket the sleeve length was about half way between my wrist and the thumb knuckle closest to the wrist, so it definitely covers my shirt sleeve. I commented on this and he responded that my arms are quite short for my height and if the sleeves are shortened it will look disproportional to the rest of the jacket. He pinned it up a bit so I could see what it would look like, but he said he didn't think it looked right.

The other threads on SF all state there is a hard rule for sleeve length that the shirt sleeve should extend 1/2" beyond the jacket sleeve for both suits and sport coats. Is that 100% true? I love the pants that he made for me and I trust his opinion, but something doesn't feel right about this length...

For reference, if I buy a RTW shirt with 32/33 sleeves I need to get like 4 inches taken off and I am 5'7" tall. I am also overweight, but that shouldn't matter as far as sleeve length is concerned... right?

Run!

It's all subjective, but I usually like to show around 1/4 - 3/8 of an inch of shirt sleeve below the jacket. Since these are man mande prodcuts there will always be variations. The thickness of the fabrics involved also play a role.

It sounds like your jacket is a bit too low. I once read from Manton that he prefers his jacket sleeves to hit the bottom of his wristbone and that works well for me too. Play around with it a bit and see what works for you.

Originally Posted by sanadan

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.. and I am 5'7" tall. I am also overweight, but that shouldn't matter as far as sleeve length is concerned... right?

Those are both normal numbers for StyleForvm.


- B

Originally Posted by binge

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Run!

Why, do you want him to drag his jacket sleeves on the ground?

Better to walk away slowly, arms crossed.


- B

Well, I found this tailor through SF and the pants he made me are the best two pants I've ever owned so I feel really comfortable with him. He said that shortening the sleeves is no problem at all and if I want to do it's up to me. I think I just got confirmation that I want to do it, I'm just scared I might be making a mistake by ignoring his advice.

Originally Posted by sanadan

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Well, I found this tailor through SF and the pants he made me are the best two pants I've ever owned so I feel really comfortable with him. He said that shortening the sleeves is no problem at all and if I want to do it's up to me. I think I just got confirmation that I want to do it, I'm just scared I might be making a mistake by ignoring his advice.

When in doubt, follow your gut. No need to make a decision right this minute. Sleep on it and perhaps check out some photographs showing how you like it to fall on your wrist. Perhasp also try on a jacket you already have at home and see how you like where that falls and if it could use some changes on this next jacket.

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

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When in doubt, follow your gut. No need to make a decision right this minute. Sleep on it and perhaps check out some photographs showing how you like it to fall on your wrist. Perhasp also try on a jacket you already have at home and see how you like where that falls and if it could use some changes on this next jacket.

I don't own any other jackets. This will be my first.

I will look at some photos on SF and perhaps bring one with me when I pick up the jacket on Saturday.

Originally Posted by sanadan

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Well, I found this tailor through SF and the pants he made me are the best two pants I've ever owned so I feel really comfortable with him. He said that shortening the sleeves is no problem at all and if I want to do it's up to me. I think I just got confirmation that I want to do it, I'm just scared I might be making a mistake by ignoring his advice.

A normal place to terminate a jacket sleeve is at the point wrist and hand meet.



Some variation is normal, but having the jacket sleeve go past your wrist so that it covers your hand is a bit Borat.


- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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A normal place to terminate a jacket sleeve is at the point wrist and hand meet.

Some variation is normal, but having the jacket sleeve go past your wrist so that it covers your hand is a bit Borat.


- B

Vox,

Those pictures are a lot of help and the site they are from looks really informative. There goes my productivity for the afternoon.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Those are both normal numbers for StyleForvm.


- B

well, in all fairness, he sounds about 3 inches taller than the average and would like to hear what the weight is to see if it falls in the SF overweight category.


As for the tailor, I suggest you cut your losses. Anyone who tells you that a sleeve which is halfway down your thumb is correct for the overall balance of the jacket is obviously a quack and should not be given shears.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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As for the tailor, I suggest you cut your losses. Anyone who tells you that a sleeve which is halfway down your thumb is correct for the overall balance of the jacket is obviously a quack and should not be given shears.

Perhaps the tailor is Candidate 1.0 for micro-managing.


- B

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

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I once read from Manton that he prefers his jacket sleeves to hit the bottom of his wristbone and that works well for me too.

This. The prominent knob of the wrist bone is easy to feel under the jacket and shirt, too.

I wouldn't do anything until you've posted pictures here. You'll receive a ton of simple and fair advice which may lack unanimity but that will be more than made up for by its cost.

Originally Posted by ZON_JR

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I wouldn't do anything until you've posted pictures here. You'll receive a ton of simple and fair advice which may lack unanimity but that will be more than made up for by its cost.

I think this will be my plan. I pick up the jacket Saturday so I will update with pictures.