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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II - Page 953

post #14281 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hampton View Post

Very nice but a spoil tag would be great.

Why? Everybody would click it anyway, right?
post #14282 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebel222 View Post

Anyone else notice that the Lobb's have an unusal welt? Hopefully some of the more informed shoe construction guys can chime in, but generally a 270 degree welt stops at the back of the waist, where it meets the heel. The pair above start at the front of the waist, so the only portion of the sole attached to the welt is from there forward. I guess the remaining of the sole is glued on . . . Unusual.
Would that be considered a 180 degree welt?
Would that allow a closer bevel because there is no stitching at that part of the sole?

The welt style of the JLSJ boot (presumably bespoke because they only make bespoke) is similar to my bespoke G&Gs. I assume this is a stylistic point to make a the cleaner waist but I am not certain. I don't know how they achieve this technically, but since this is bespoke, I doubt they glue the sole. My machine made G&Gs and other machine made shoes have a welt that go further back.
post #14283 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHS View Post


Why? Everybody would click it anyway, right?

Because the thread will take longer to load. And I never klick on it if the first pic is good.

post #14284 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebel222 View Post

Anyone else notice that the Lobb's have an unusal welt? Hopefully some of the more informed shoe construction guys can chime in, but generally a 270 degree welt stops at the back of the waist, where it meets the heel. The pair above start at the front of the waist, so the only portion of the sole attached to the welt is from there forward. I guess the remaining of the sole is glued on . . . Unusual.
Would that be considered a 180 degree welt?
Would that allow a closer bevel because there is no stitching at that part of the sole?

That's actually where a Norvegese or Bentivegna 180 degree welt stops. I just noticed this fact and am wondering exactly what it looks like on the inside.
post #14285 of 20649
The pictures will have to be loaded anyway if you want to see them, and with regards to never clicking if the first picture is good - you have completely lost me...
post #14286 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

I think it's a bespoke thing. Cleverley and John Lobb St. James (probably others) cut the outsole very close to the waist and heel making the welt appear to end at the waist.
32BAA9FF-49BC-4D99-ABF1-4F881E2005F9-10905-00000787534616A6.jpg
7D00DD57-7B33-4F19-A114-CAE24E4B1DDA-10905-000007875E0EF4E2.jpg
8C74C319-FA24-41A5-B2B7-197FE70DFF8E-10905-00000787622A6D7E.jpg
Sorry for the lousy state of my shoes. The hurricane has given me the afternoon to take care of them, and they are mid-polish.
Edit: actually, looking very closely, it appears as if the welts end at the waist, but there is a very thin welt at the waist.
E5FAD674-884F-42FB-84B4-096AF31D75FE-10905-00000788F63959CD.jpg
4DA63B6F-DE6E-44B6-8D0E-648912E8EEC6-10905-00000788FB3F5F68.jpg
BD25261C-68AE-4B00-9352-0531AEFBF013-10905-00000788FF96DA97.jpg
FEA7B891-6287-4184-A72F-659BBB473489-10905-000007890327236D.jpg
Here are some closeups. What you can't see are the stiches very close to the waist on what looks like a very thin welt. The stitches appear to connect directly to the outsole. Also, the waist (which appears to lack a closed channel) has a thin seam on the side, so I guess they must hide the channel on the side of the waist?

LOVE spade soles!
post #14287 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHS View Post

The pictures will have to be loaded anyway if you want to see them, and with regards to never clicking if the first picture is good - you have completely lost me...

You show the first picture then put the rest on spoiler. Many just watch that first pic without clicking on the spoiler tag (like me) And it's easy for the next one to quote without making the pictures show all over again. 

post #14288 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

The welt style of the JLSJ boot (presumably bespoke because they only make bespoke) is similar to my bespoke G&Gs. I assume this is a stylistic point to make a the cleaner waist but I am not certain. I don't know how they achieve this technically, but since this is bespoke, I doubt they glue the sole. My machine made G&Gs and other machine made shoes have a welt that go further back.

I'm fairly certain that G&G and Lobb bespoke still have glue in them.
post #14289 of 20649

How does the U last fit vis a vis DC lewis dub monk (101, I think), or EG 888?

 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

I never thought I would see the day Mac posted something non-Alden. Wow.
Me, new Vass U last :

 

 

post #14290 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by circumspice View Post

How does the U last fit vis a vis DC lewis dub monk (101, I think), or EG 888? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Very close actually - virtually the same, though the U last is a bit more narrow than the DC101 or the 888.
post #14291 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post


Very close actually - virtually the same, though the U last is a bit more narrow than the DC101 or the 888.

 

Thanks

 

Narrow in the forefoot, or in the heel? The 888 is a little too tight in on my last or next to last toe, whereas the DC101 is awesome. I probably should have the 888 stretched by a cobbler.

 

Sizing up doesn't sound great to me as I am US11 and just about 6ft. I am hard on my toes, so I figure the last thing I'd need as more length in addition to my fears of the clown shoes effect.

post #14292 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hampton View Post

You show the first picture then put the rest on spoiler. Many just watch that first pic without clicking on the spoiler tag (like me) And it's easy for the next one to quote without making the pictures show all over again. 

OK, I can understand why then. I like to look at the pictures though, as many as possible!
post #14293 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post

www.sartorial-footwear.tumblr.com Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
just ordered some of these!

Those look great. Like the brown tassels!
post #14294 of 20649
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post #14295 of 20649
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebel222 View Post

Anyone else notice that the Lobb's have an unusal welt? Hopefully some of the more informed shoe construction guys can chime in, but generally a 270 degree welt stops at the back of the waist, where it meets the heel. The pair above start at the front of the waist, so the only portion of the sole attached to the welt is from there forward. I guess the remaining of the sole is glued on . . . Unusual.
Would that be considered a 180 degree welt?
Would that allow a closer bevel because there is no stitching at that part of the sole?
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post

That's actually where a Norvegese or Bentivegna 180 degree welt stops. I just noticed this fact and am wondering exactly what it looks like on the inside.


I've wondered about this as well.

I've checked on my Vass with a beveled waist and it looks the same. If I pull at the waist I can just see stitching going through the upper. I wondered if it means the welt has is 180 degrees and the stitching is just from upper to inseam like would be done at the heel.

EDIT: as per Bengal-stripe's response
But I had a look at Carreducker's blog and it looks like the welt continues to 270 degrees, but becomes narrowed and the stitches hidden at the waist.

A Spade sole is slightly different from what I've read.
The welt still runs 270 degrees but it is cut tight and is essentially non functional beyond 180 degrees - there's no stitching from welt to sole at this point. It's justs glued. You can see in the picture that the welt is still there but it's cut so close that you wouldn't be able to stitch it through to the outsole.


Structurally it's not going to affect the shoe because the sole is held in place at the heel and the front of the shoe. Also, on many shoes the waist would be pegged.


Norvegese and Bentivegna often have another midsole in there.
Edited by hendrix - 11/1/12 at 7:47pm
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