Anyone else notice that the Lobb's have an unusal welt? Hopefully some of the more informed shoe construction guys can chime in, but generally a 270 degree welt stops at the back of the waist, where it meets the heel. The pair above start at the front of the waist, so the only portion of the sole attached to the welt is from there forward. I guess the remaining of the sole is glued on . . . Unusual.
Would that be considered a 180 degree welt?
Would that allow a closer bevel because there is no stitching at that part of the sole?
I think it's a bespoke thing. Cleverley and John Lobb St. James (probably others) cut the outsole very close to the waist and heel making the welt appear to end at the waist.
Sorry for the lousy state of my shoes. The hurricane has given me the afternoon to take care of them, and they are mid-polish.
Edit: actually, looking very closely, it appears as if the welts end at the waist, but there is a very thin welt at the waist.
Here are some closeups. What you can't see are the stiches very close to the waist on what looks like a very thin welt. The stitches appear to connect directly to the outsole. Also, the waist (which appears to lack a closed channel) has a thin seam on the side, so I guess they must hide the channel on the side of the waist?
Edited by jerrybrowne - 10/29/12 at 10:03am