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WW Chan's Neopolitan shoulder construction - pictures

zjpj83

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Originally Posted by lee_44106
the patch pocket pattern not lining up with the rest of the jacket is really bothering me.
facepalm.gif


Is it because of the presence of the front dart that makes it technically impossible?


Yeah, see how it lines up on the bottom of the jacket.
 

kolecho

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Originally Posted by lee_44106
the patch pocket pattern not lining up with the rest of the jacket is really bothering me.
facepalm.gif
Is it because of the presence of the front dart that makes it technically impossible?

Patch pockets rise a bit towards the rear, whereas the pattern is aligned horizontally. This is pretty standard across the globe. If you are talking about the vertical pattern, all my coats' patch pockets are pattern matched to not have such issues. It can be done depending on the shape of the darts.
 

greekonomist

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Originally Posted by lee_44106
the patch pocket pattern not lining up with the rest of the jacket is really bothering me.
facepalm.gif


Is it because of the presence of the front dart that makes it technically impossible?


Isn't avoiding that one of the advantages of the Neapolitan full length dart? I wonder if Chan would experiment with that detail.
 

kolecho

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Originally Posted by greekonomist
Isn't avoiding that one of the advantages of the Neapolitan full length dart? I wonder if Chan would experiment with that detail.

You don't need a full length dart to get the pocket pattern to match the body. The darts on my coat stop around the pocket top and the pocket is perfectly aligned to the body.
 

Slewfoot

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NorCal1 - out of curiosity, whose the fabric maker for your gray flannel suit? And would you say the color in the photo is true to in-real-life? I'm placing an order with Chan tonight for a DB and yours intriques me.

IMG_4566.jpg
 

NorCal_1

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Originally Posted by Slewfoot
NorCal1 - out of curiosity, whose the fabric maker for your gray flannel suit? And would you say the color in the photo is true to in-real-life? I'm placing an order with Chan tonight for a DB and yours intriques me.



since this was my first suit with WW Chan, I went with Vitale Barberis,,,, and not Fox or Harrisons

I also did it because I live in the Bay area and VBC makes a nice 11 oz flannel (as opposed to 13/14 oz for the others) so I can wear it more months of the year in our warmer weather
 

Vintage Gent

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Originally Posted by kolecho
You don't need a full length dart to get the pocket pattern to match the body. The darts on my coat stop around the pocket top and the pocket is perfectly aligned to the body.

True. I recently had Nick Lopez make a tweed odd jacket for me. The dart stops just above the pocket and the patterns match completely.
 

JT82

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Originally Posted by kolecho
You don't need a full length dart to get the pocket pattern to match the body. The darts on my coat stop around the pocket top and the pocket is perfectly aligned to the body.
Originally Posted by Vintage Gent
True. I recently had Nick Lopez make a tweed odd jacket for me. The dart stops just above the pocket and the patterns match completely.
Interesting... was this mis-matched pattern just an anomaly? An oversight by Chan? Has anyone has similar issues with Chan's pattern-matching?
 

jefferyd

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It's neither an oversight nor an anomaly- it is their way of cutting a bit of a swelled chest and a trim hip. A dart which stops at the top of the pocket and allows the whole thing to be matched will not fit the same as the type of cut they have done; fit should take precedence over pattern matching.
 

Slewfoot

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Originally Posted by NorCal_1
since this was my first suit with WW Chan, I went with Vitale Barberis,,,, and not Fox or Harrisons

I also did it because I live in the Bay area and VBC makes a nice 11 oz flannel (as opposed to 13/14 oz for the others) so I can wear it more months of the year in our warmer weather


Thanks! Now I see why I like it - I previously ordered the same fabric! Unfortunately I'm not happy with the details I chose as I don't feel they are right for me. Alas, it's being sold in B&S.
 

greekonomist

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Originally Posted by jefferyd
It's neither an oversight nor an anomaly- it is their way of cutting a bit of a swelled chest and a trim hip. A dart which stops at the top of the pocket and allows the whole thing to be matched will not fit the same as the type of cut they have done; fit should take precedence over pattern matching.

I agree, but ceteris paribus I would prefer such a conspicuous thing as a large pattern on a patch pocket to match.
 

NorCal_1

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latest commission: H. Lesser in navy blue birdseye(excuse the flash)

IMG_4939.jpg

IMG_4935.jpg
 

gdl203

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Here's mine. I wouldn't go as far as calling it a Napolitan shoulder though.

soporific_fih.jpg
 

taxgenius

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Originally Posted by zjpj83
Yeah, see how it lines up on the bottom of the jacket.

Exactly.
 

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