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did your friend (or yourself) impose or not impose enough on Raphael to get a better looking suit?
for a bespoke number, there are obvious/clear issues with his suit, and it is surprising you claim not to see it (chest, waist suppression, drape of trousers to mention a few).
I'm sorry, but some on WAYWT could only hope to look half as good.
If this was a case of extraordinary cloth and pattern, I could see the value. But this guy clearly wanted a standard workhorse suit, so no clue why he'd shell out the $5k for such a purpose.
I'm not seeing the bunching--would you mind being more specific?
There are some who believe that bespoke should be reserved for 'special' suits that are, detail-wise, out of the ordinary. I have never subscribed to this point-of-view. Point in fact, I choose to invest the absolute most in staple, workhorse garments. Based on my observations, other forum members who regularly order bespoke feel similarly.
If I may be so bold as to borrow the foofpen, I believe this is what people (myself included) are seeing when they refer to bunching in the chest and along the sides. For comparison, I offer a suit of mine which I humbly submit has a clean chest and smooth (as opposed to rumpled) waist suppression.
You must not read many of my posts--not that I'd blame you. There is plenty of sub-par bespoke out there, and I frequently criticize it on the forum.
Can you just stick someone's head on this, pretend it's a chan suit and foof away? I don't have the energy to do so. As for the pooling, I stated it was in the lower thigh, and I guess if you don't see it, there's no amount of foofing that will explain it. I don't think you are making an objective analysis of this fit. Given some of the minute fit issues you point out in nearly every suit you see fit to criticize, it's pretty galling that you fail to acknowledge the shortcomings in this suit which others have also pointed out.
Quite true, this. I have one or two that are out there (see the olive flannel Shattuck suit which, by the way, I had Raphael completely recut and change the pockets on) but the remainder are very much staples in blues, grays and browns.
There are some who believe that bespoke should be reserved for 'special' suits that are, detail-wise, out of the ordinary. I have never subscribed to this point-of-view. Point in fact, I choose to invest the absolute most in staple, workhorse garments. Based on my observations, other forum members who regularly order bespoke feel similarly.
^^^ I agree that the waist suppression is sharply nipped, as opposed to smoothly curved, but I don't think that is an error. You see it frequently on military-style Savile Row suits.
I do see what you're seeing. What I've got on is RTW -- not made for my body. However, the effect you're describing in terms of 'shaping' has been much better realized elsewhere (for example, in vox's suits). Here, the result looks to me like bagginess or sagging just above the buttoning point, with a resulting concavity underneath it. There's too much loose fabric and not enough shape.As for the chest 'bunching': what I see is shaping in the Raphael jacket, and a lack of shaping in yours. Do you see how the jacket sculpts inwards toward Jon's waist? Maybe I am just imagining things, but that is the kind of shaping that I like to see in a bespoke jacket. Mine exhibit a similar effect.
I understand what you're saying. But my contention is that a workhorse suit has a purpose: utility So if you gain that utility through RTW + competent tailoring, why go bespoke? For the "process??" I mean I've heard some silly things on this forum, but the argument to drop $5k for partaking in the "process" of creating a utility workhorse suit is just absurd to me. That's probably just my upbringing getting the best of me, but that's the way I see it.
^^^ I agree that the waist suppression is sharply nipped, as opposed to smoothly curved, but I don't think that is an error. You see it frequently on military-style Savile Row suits.
But there's no (or at least shouldn't be) zig-zag crunching around the nipped waist.^^^ I agree that the waist suppression is sharply nipped, as opposed to smoothly curved, but I don't think that is an error. You see it frequently on military-style Savile Row suits.