A&S

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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When you hear snoring from Despos, it means that the dosage is correct.

Mind the kicking, though, at initial administration.


- B

In Chicago these things are to be expected.

Originally Posted by TRINI

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You forgot sending back your coats to have them converted from one-button to 3.

Please see the etc. in point #2.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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It helps if you buy your tailor good booze. - B
What's wrong with the patch pockets on your Gunclub?

Originally Posted by George

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What's wrong with the patch pockets on your Gunclub?

They look too English.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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They look too English.
Oh...well played!

Originally Posted by George

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Oh...well played!

Nah, I was being serious. There's too much Anglo in the angles.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Nah, I was being serious. There's too much Anglo in the angles.
Ah...!! I look forward to seeing his Deboise/Cifonelli hybrid.

Originally Posted by George

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What's wrong with the patch pockets on your Gunclub?

That wasn't the order of thinking.

When we were discussing a new tweed jacket on which I asked for patch pockets, my tailor mentioned a prior conversation that we had about the '36 Meyer & Mortimer to which I linked above, and that he remembered a type of patch design they had cut at A&S when he first arrived that had later given way to the squarer, more standard SR patches. This lead to a discussion of the various generations of A&S cutters as I was looking over fabrics. We decided to try the old patch design on the jacket.

When we both looked it at the new jacket at forward fitting, we both really liked it how the pockets looked. Since I was sending back the two earlier tweed jackets anyway for having the sides taken in, he said that it wouldn't be much trouble to have the old pockets done in the new(old) shapes if I liked.

I realize some people don't talk to their tailors, either because of a language barrier, the requirement to be muzzled before entering the room, or unavoidably because of the occasional incarceration. I've known Edwin for nearly ten years, though, and apparently this leads to easy conversations on multiple topics, including clothes.



- B

Easy Tiger... Let's have a look at this M&M Mmm, I like the breast pocket, nice bit of flair there. It actually reminds me a little of that Cifonelli to be honest. The hip pockets are blah....!

'36 was a good vintage for patch pockets.

Some points of view from tailors I have worked with.
Keep the front pocket edge on the line of the plaid (when using plaid cloth)for a clean line.
Shape the front edge of the patch pocket to mirror the curve of the front quarter
Have the lower curved edge reflect the shape of the roundness of the fronts at the bottom where the front curves into the hem
Shape the front pocket edge straighter on a DB because of the straight line of the fronts.
Make them curvy/swervy and a point of interest all on their own regardless of the jacket lines or cloth pattern.
Place them close to the hem, farther from the hem or "just right"
Make them elongated
Make them squatty, short and wide
Flap them, don't flap them
Make the back height a touch higher than the front
Make the front height a touch higher than the back
Give the top line a crescent shape
Make the corners square not round
Make them with inverted pleats
Make them with box pleats
Make them bellows style

Originally Posted by Despos

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'36 was a good vintage for patch pockets. Some points of view from tailors I have worked with. Keep the front pocket edge on the line of the plaid (when using plaid cloth)for a clean line. Shape the front edge of the patch pocket to mirror the curve of the front quarter Have the lower curved edge reflect the shape of the roundness of the fronts at the bottom where the front curves into the hem Shape the front pocket edge straighter on a DB because of the straight line of the fronts. Make them curvy/swervy and a point of interest all on their own regardless of the jacket lines or cloth pattern. Place them close to the hem, farther from the hem or "just right" Make them elongated Make them squatty, short and wide Flap them, don't flap them Make the back height a touch higher than the front Make the front height a touch higher than the back Give the top line a crescent shape Make the corners square not round Make them with inverted pleats Make them with box pleats Make them bellows style
So there's no consistent view then. Just how I like it.

Originally Posted by Despos

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Make the front height a touch higher than the back
Would anyone really do this?

Originally Posted by gdl203

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Would anyone really do this?

Sciamat does much stranger things to their pockets.

Originally Posted by George

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Easy Tiger...

Let's have a look at this M&M

Mmm, I like the breast pocket, nice bit of flair there. It actually reminds me a little of that Cifonelli to be honest.

The hip pockets are blah....!

The vertical stripes of the lapels are way off. The left lapel is 1/4" from the edge at top and the left is at least 3/4" from the top edge of the lapel

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Sciamat does much stranger things to their pockets.

yeah, but they got that nice green fabric I want. BTW, I don't even know what the statement gdl quoted means