Linen shirts

Kent Wang · Mar 20, 2008

I am thinking of designing some linen shirts. I recall reading that cotton/linen blends are better as they don't wrinkle as much as pure linen. If so, what's the ideal percentage, 50/50?

What style? I don't want to make a casual shirt, just something I could wear underneath a summer suit, which would also be flexible enough to wear without a jacket. Should such a shirt have collar stays?

Manton · Mar 20, 2008

50/50 is about right, you could also do 60/40 in either direction.

Linen-cotton is amazingly versatile. I have it in a lot of configurations: tab collar, BD, medium spread, button cuff, French cuff, etc. BD linen cotton is a great summer shirt. Can be worn under a suit with a tie, or open necked with odd trousers and no jacket. No stays for a BD of course, but the spread should probably have them. Italophiles who like floppy collars can always just leave them out.

alliswell · Mar 20, 2008

Yes, or hidden buttons. Otherwise you can't control the collar with a jacket on.

Master Shake · Mar 20, 2008

I get linen/cotton mix shirts to avoid the wrinkles. I don't know what the percentages for each are in the mix. I style these the exact same as my cotton dress shirts -- same collar, same fit, etc. (although I have never, and don't plan on ever, getting one made with french cuffs). I get my shirts with collar stays, yes.

Zegnamtl · Mar 21, 2008

100 percent linen, soft, light, and let the wind blow through on the nastiest of days.
Collar stays, dressy in appearance, but light and airy in use.

I have a Borrelli and a Barba that fit into this category and while I wear them rarely, I love dearly on the days I do.

Originally Posted by Kent Wang

......
I don't want to make a casual shirt, just something I could wear underneath a summer suit, which would also be flexible enough to wear without a jacket. Should such a shirt have collar stays?

Manton · Mar 21, 2008

^^^ I don't find my pure linen shirts soft or light compared to linen-cotton. Pure linen has to be (or at least in my experience is) thicker, stiffer, and denser than linen-cotton.

I like it for certain things, but linen-cotton is better as a dress fabric, and better on the brutally hot days.

Baron · Mar 21, 2008

I have a linen BD shirt that I love - in fact the collar is starting to wear through. I'd love a few more in a linen-cotton blend.

airportlobby · Mar 21, 2008

I like a 50/50 w/ invisible button down collars. I also like a shorter length so they can either be tucked in or worn untucked with jeans. Hard to find shirts that fit all these qualifications.

redtree00 · Mar 21, 2008

I get the most use out of cotton/linen blend button downs.

I have one spread collar that I love but can't find anything like it. Has a collar similar to the H&K cutaway.

remo72tg · Mar 21, 2008

Could you guys recommend any brands that make nice cotton/linen shirts.

Kent Wang · Mar 21, 2008

Kent Wang will, in about three months.

Gus · Mar 21, 2008

I have linen and 60/40 linen cotton shirts. I have found after much trial and error that a cutaway or wide spread collar works best. With collar stays it tucks nicely under the lapels of a jacket. Without stays it has a bit more casual look that is good with a linen or cotton jacket when I want to be very casual. Or, for the most casual look and comfort on a weekend or hot day, I love rolling up the sleeves with no tie and of course no jacket. I always buy a slightly smaller collar with linen shirts. They don't get as wild that way.

Tomasso · Mar 21, 2008

Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy

for the most casual look and comfort on a weekend or hot day, I love rolling up the sleeves with no tie and of course no jacket.

remo72tg · Mar 21, 2008

Anyone can tell me where to find Borrelli Cotton/Linen shirts in NYC .

Manton · Mar 21, 2008

The Borrelli shop?

Linen shirts

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