Blog update: Rubinacci jacket, Anna M. shirt, Ambrosi pants, etc.

I got my first Rubinacci ties in London recently. I had resisted for a long time because the are so thin. Two are knits, so they knot up just fine. The other is a shantung I just had to have. It is definitely narrower than all my other ties, but I don't know where else to get shantung. The seven-folds are so wispy I don't see how anyone wears them.

Originally Posted by Manton

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I got my first Rubinacci ties in London recently. I had resisted for a long time because the are so thin. Two are knits, so they knot up just fine. The other is a shantung I just had to have. It is definitely narrower than all my other ties, but I don't know where else to get shantung. The seven-folds are so wispy I don't see how anyone wears them.

How do they compare to other makes?

Originally Posted by nmoraitis

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How do they compare to other makes?

Well, knits are knits. Not sure if there is any difference.

The shantung is a regular tie (non-seven or six or anything), narrow, with a very thin lining and no tipping. Seems as well made as any other tie I have.

Originally Posted by dopey

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Rather, it is because, to me, shirts just can't do a whole lot. They either fit or they don't and among the shirts that fit, they will all have more or less the same affect on your appearance (putting aside choices like cloth or collar styles). As an outsider, non-hobbyist, judging your appearance, I think a decently fitting shirt from any of a dozen makers would convey more or less the same impression. That is not to say, you shouldn't indulge - especially in cloths if you like them. Only that it is more of a personal indulgence.


I would disagree with this in that it's not true a shirt fits or it doesn't. What do you mean by fit? I can buy a slim fit BB RTW in my typical 16 34/35. Does it fit? Sure. Anybody in my office looking at me would think the shirt fits. But if I wear one of my MTM or bepoke shirts, it will definitely elicit a different reaction. And even among my MTM or bespoke, there are some that fit better than others. One maker is definitely more flattering to my physique because the shoulders and chest are cut better while the tapering on the sides are done much better. Sleeve length plays a look in the appearance as well. Not all dozen shirtmakers are the same, and I think I not only feel better in a particular one, I feel I convey a different impression.

Originally Posted by Manton

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I got my first Rubinacci ties in London recently. I had resisted for a long time because the are so thin. Two are knits, so they knot up just fine. The other is a shantung I just had to have. It is definitely narrower than all my other ties, but I don't know where else to get shantung. The seven-folds are so wispy I don't see how anyone wears them.
I think the 7-folds are very wearable.

Originally Posted by iammatt

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I think the 7-folds are very wearable.

The knots must be microscopic. And I wonder if the things have enough mass to be affected by gravity. Do they actually hang down from the neck?

Originally Posted by Manton

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Well, knits are knits. Not sure if there is any difference.

The shantung is a regular tie (non-seven or six or anything), narrow, with a very thin lining and no tipping. Seems as well made as any other tie I have.

I only ask, because it didn't seem from your original post like you were to impressed with them.

Originally Posted by Manton

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The knots must be microscopic. And I wonder if the things have enough mass to be affected by gravity. Do they actually hang down from the neck?
Most of the knots I wear which you deem too small are from the 7fold R ties.

Originally Posted by nmoraitis

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I only ask, because it didn't seem from your original post like you were to impressed with them.

It's not that I don't like the styling (many of them are great) or the make (they seem perfectly well made), it's that they are made short, narrow and super-light, and tie up into a small knot. Not really my style.

As I say, the knits are just knits. They are a bit narrower than other knits, but not absurdly so. The other one is a gorgeous shantung. It's actually 3.5" at the widest, which is not that narrow. But it's not cut in that Milanese "bottle shape" with more fullness up the front blade. It tapers down very quickly. That and the thin lining makes for a small, small knot. And it's not long enough for me to do a Prince Albert.

I've gotten around the knot issue by resorting to double four-in-hand knots. Holds up well in my experience, it doesn't look "off" either.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Maybe I am just more used to drape going into the scye.

- B

+1.

For me the best execution of this gradual blending of the excess upper back fabrics (for both shirts and jackets) is such that they are incorporated into the scye without calling attention to themselves.

In my limitted experience I've only seen this on Kabbaz's shirts and Green's suits.

- M

The ensemble looks very nice.

Is there any chance you can get more information on the fabric?

Molto bene!

There will be very few rooms you walk in to where you won't be the best dressed, by a long long way.

As a nitpick I don't like the laces in the Lobbs

Originally Posted by iammatt

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Most of the knots I wear which you deem too small are from the 7fold R ties.

That looks fine to me, if slightly reminiscent of the 80s thin knot which I rather like anyway.

Originally Posted by dopey

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. . .

2: Your shirt fits about as well as anyone could reasonably want. Which points out to me that worrying about shirt fit is more of a personal indulgence. It is obvious to me that the sportcoat makes you look well-dressed. It is a great investment in tailoring with a great result. The shirt, on the other hand, does nothing for you. Not because the shirt or your physique are bad. Rather, it is because, to me, shirts just can't do a whole lot. They either fit or they don't and among the shirts that fit, they will all have more or less the same affect on your appearance (putting aside choices like cloth or collar styles). As an outsider, non-hobbyist, judging your appearance, I think a decently fitting shirt from any of a dozen makers would convey more or less the same impression. That is not to say, you shouldn't indulge - especially in cloths if you like them. Only that it is more of a personal indulgence.

. . .

Originally Posted by teddieriley

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I would disagree with this in that it's not true a shirt fits or it doesn't. What do you mean by fit? I can buy a slim fit BB RTW in my typical 16 34/35. Does it fit? Sure. Anybody in my office looking at me would think the shirt fits. But if I wear one of my MTM or bepoke shirts, it will definitely elicit a different reaction. And even among my MTM or bespoke, there are some that fit better than others. One maker is definitely more flattering to my physique because the shoulders and chest are cut better while the tapering on the sides are done much better. Sleeve length plays a look in the appearance as well. Not all dozen shirtmakers are the same, and I think I not only feel better in a particular one, I feel I convey a different impression.

I was talking about a well fitting bespoke shirt, not RTW. Sorry for not making that clearer. You can still disagree.