• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Astor & Black or Balani experience?

samba

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Hello Gents:

New to the forum. What a great find this is. I searched for both terms and read every post on AB (last one on Feb 4) and the single (not helpful) post on Balani (http://www.balaniclothiers.com/). I live in Chicago. I realize that these are not "high end" clothiers, but I do have a budget for now (would like a MTM suit in the 600- 800 or so range, definitely under 1000). I figure that a good MTM in that range would hopefully fit better than one off the rack for a similar price.

Any of you have recent experience with either of these MTM places?

I'm 29, 6'1 and 185 pounds in decent shape (no six-pack, but no hanging belly fat either). 41 chest, 15/ 3/4 neck, and 34/35 sleeves. I would like to get that "tailored" fit, with good, but not too, much waist suppression (new lingo I picked up on here
wink.gif
).

I'm looking to get a few shirts and start off with one suit. I'm tired on not getting the right "look" and fit for suits. Since I'm not a brand snob, I much rather have a "no name" garment with good materials and cut, than a brand name ill fitting suit.

THis picture from Balani scared me: http://www.balaniclothiers.com/press...bune_09-07.pdf

To me, that suit looks 2 sizes to big (and that is the owner wearing $2K + suit), the lapel has no roll, the body/waist too boxy, and the sleeves too "thick", etc. Definitely not the look I'm after.

Here are some other forum member's suits whose silhouette and cut I like:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...=suit+critique

Like this one a lot, but perhaps a bit less waist suppression http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...ouette+english

So, what I like is an "English savile row" type cut?

There is one more pinstripe suit I saw here yesterday, but I can't find it now (charcoal pinstripe, pic of a guy standing in what looked like a family room, close up full body shot, no face, Persian/oriental rug in floor and semi antique chair in background). It's killing me not being able to find it. I thought that one was PERFECT and exactly what I'm looking for. The thread was regarding sleeve/suit length, and the poster said that pic was a perfect example of how it should look. Anyways, if you know what I'm talking about please post the link.

I think I would like what I've seen here referred to as a 3 roll 2 button, side vents, charcoal. I like 3 buttons, but I never button the top.

I have an appointment with an Astor Black sales rep this Wednesday. I have never done this, so I do not know what to expect. I will for sure get 2 shirts, and then see what their suits look like.

Do you have any recommendations on good MTM tailors?

Thanks for your help.
 

samba

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
i went with astor. got measured last week. suit should be in 4-6 weeks. picked a super 120's charcoal wool. will post pics upon receipt. let's hope is any good...(fingers crossed)
 

taxgenius

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
5,779
Reaction score
1,184
Originally Posted by samba
i went with astor. got measured last week. suit should be in 4-6 weeks. picked a super 120's charcoal wool. will post pics upon receipt. let's hope is any good...(fingers crossed)

Full canvased construction? Price?
 

mylesmyles

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
533
Reaction score
70
Originally Posted by samba
i went with astor. got measured last week. suit should be in 4-6 weeks. picked a super 120's charcoal wool. will post pics upon receipt. let's hope is any good...(fingers crossed)

what was the cost? did you go to them or did they come to your office?
 

samba

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Yes, supposedly fully canvased. Paid $675, for a 120's solid wool by "Bruno McKenzie" (no idea if that is a decent fabric -- Is it?). I wanted something "cheap" to start with. I have no idea how it will turn out. I'm a bit nervous, but hoping for the best. The guy actually came to my house, late night too (8:30 pm). I put on other suits + shirts that I had, to give him an idea of what I liked. He took many measurments. I was very picky with how I like my the pants to fit so he measured everything from the rise, the inseam, leg opening, to the "thickness" of the leg, etc.

This is my first MTM, so I have nothing to compare it too.

I'll post a follow up in 1.5 months.
 

cvac

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2007
Messages
433
Reaction score
8
A quick internet search reveals that "Astor & Black" is a new business venture owned by the same corporation that owns Filene's Basement. Essentially, it's a made up name. Salespeople, not the tailors who will be making your suits, take your measurements and the info is sent to China where your suit is manufactured.

I hope it works out for you.
 

samba

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by cvac
A quick internet search reveals that "Astor & Black" is a new business venture owned by the same corporation that owns Filene's Basement. Essentially, it's a made up name. Salespeople, not the tailors who will be making your suits, take your measurements and the info is sent to China where your suit is manufactured.

I hope it works out for you.


Your post is very helpful....not. All that info provided I already knew, thanks. Did you miss the part of my original post noting that I already researched AB and read all the post here on it? That info was mentioned more than once here.

Yes it's made in HK (or the mainland depending on who you ask). And yes is the salesman who takes the measurements. The latter is what has be a bit concearned. If it doesn't turn out good and can't be easily "touched up" by a local tailor, I'll request another one or my money back. If they refuse, I can very easily "lawyer up"
wink.gif
. .... Simple as that.
 

mylesmyles

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
533
Reaction score
70
interesting - when i reached out to them 6 months ago they quoted a price of around $875 for a basic suit. I wonder if the tightening of the markets is causing them to adjust their rates.
 

taxgenius

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
5,779
Reaction score
1,184
Originally Posted by cvac
Salespeople, not the tailors who will be making your suits, take your measurements.

That is usually the case with any MTM.
 

cvac

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2007
Messages
433
Reaction score
8
Originally Posted by taxgenius69
That is usually the case with any MTM.

Maybe most, but not all. Personally, I'd rather have an actual experienced tailor measure me, not someone who went through a training course that lasted a few weeks. Even if the tailor is not constructing the actual suit, odds are the measurements will be more accurate.
 

taxgenius

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
5,779
Reaction score
1,184
Originally Posted by cvac
Maybe most, but not all. Personally, I'd rather have an actual experienced tailor measure me, not someone who went through a training course that lasted a few weeks. Even if the tailor is not constructing the actual suit, odds are the measurements will be more accurate.

Can you give an example of where that is the case?
 

cvac

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2007
Messages
433
Reaction score
8
Re: the info, I found that on a google search awhile back, not on the forum. I'm new to the forum and haven't read all the posts on AB. In your post, you did not mention you were aware of the specifics of their business model. Sorry if I offended you.

Does AB offer a money back guarantee? How do they normally deal with a situation where the customer isn't happy with the suit?

What would you do, sue them in small claims court? Seems like a waste of time and resources.

Personally, I would not have spent the money on the suit unless I could afford to chalk it up as a loss.

It seems like the better HK tailors charge $1K + to make a nice suit, so $675 seems a little suspicious.

It will be interesting to see the results, maybe I'm totally wrong.

Originally Posted by samba
Your post is very helpful....not. All that info provided I already knew, thanks. Did you miss the part of my original post noting that I already researched AB and read all the post here on it? That info was mentioned more than once here.

Yes it's made in HK (or the mainland depending on who you ask). And yes is the salesman who takes the measurements. The latter is what has be a bit concearned. If it doesn't turn out good and can't be easily "touched up" by a local tailor, I'll request another one or my money back. If they refuse, I can very easily "lawyer up"
wink.gif
. .... Simple as that.
 

cvac

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2007
Messages
433
Reaction score
8
Yes. In my town there is an experienced tailor that makes bespoke suits, jackets, and trousers. He also does alterations for off the rack garments. This tailor, for whatever reason, does not make shirts. Instead, he measures customers and sends their measurements to a well-known MTM shirtmaker in another city. The guy is not a salesman and obviously knows how to measure.

Among independent clothing stores that do MTM programs with well-known suit makers, I'm sure it is possible to have the experienced, in house tailor do your measurements for an MTM suit instead of the salesman. Some suit makers even allow you to go directly to the factory to have your measurements taken by an experienced tailor. I believe Oxxford does this.

Other than that, when the traveling tailors come to town, you can request that an actual tailor take your measurements and not a salesman. Several people have reported that when the order from Hemrajani, for example, they will only let Joe H. himself do the measurements and not one of his

Originally Posted by taxgenius69
Can you give an example of where that is the case?
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 60 38.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 18.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,162
Messages
10,579,047
Members
223,883
Latest member
Darru
Top