Proper waistcoat etiquette?

I have never worn a suit with a waistcoat (is vest the same thing?). What is the etiquette for wearing a suit with one? For example, does it have to be made out of the same material as the rest of the suit? Can it be different? Different styles for double or single breasted suits?

I would like to get one for my current suit or purchase another suit with one.

The British tend to say 'waistcoat' and the Americans 'vest'. If you read Charles Dickens he will only write 'waistcoat'. The only exception is in tailoring parlance, where the British also say 'vest' eg 'vest maker'. The word 'vest' is actually a bit older and dates to around the time of Henry VIII IIRC.

The waistcoat need not match the coat. In fact, a bit of contrast can be interesting. I like odd waistcoats with a bit of pattern such as an understated check with a base colour a bit lighter than the coat. If the waistcoat has a pattern, you must ensure that shirt, tie and coat are plain solids to avoid it looking too busy. The more versatile waistcoats for wear with a lounge coat include cream, and dove grey. For a more informal look a more prominent check can be attractive. When worn with a sports coats you may mix patterns more - if you know how.

Waistcoats may be single or double breasted. The later is much more formal. They may or may not have lapels. If they do, they can be shawl collared or else have a form matching that of the coat. Double breasted waistcoats with a horse shoe shaped front are particularly formal and are worn only with formal and semi-formal dress (both morning and evening dress).

As for form and fit, it is by far and away preferable that the trousers be brace trousers so that the bulge from the belt underneath is not visible under the waistcoat. The waistcoat should be long enough to fully cover the waistline of the trousers. If bespeaking the waistcoat and trousers, a shorter waistcoat and brace trousers with a higher rise will also give the illusion of a longer leg-line.

very informative. thank you.

If the shirt and tie are patterned, one would need a solid color waistcoat I presume? So then with a black suit what solid color waistcoat would look appropriate?

Also, as stated by Sator, what are horse-shoe shaped waistcoats?

Don't button the bottom button.

Originally Posted by DouggiePhresh

Click to expand...

Also, as stated by Sator, what are horse-shoe shaped waistcoats?
I think that means a U-shaped opening, as opposed to the vests you see at your tuxedo rental places in the mall that have the V-shaped openings... this photo is of a single-breasted one.

Originally Posted by Roikins

Click to expand...

I think that means a U-shaped opening, as opposed to the vests you see at your tuxedo rental places in the mall that have the V-shaped openings... this photo is of a single-breasted one.



Oh, ok, thanks for the clarification. I have always figured those for formal only anyway.

Originally Posted by DouggiePhresh

Click to expand...

very informative. thank you.

If the shirt and tie are patterned, one would need a solid color waistcoat I presume? So then with a black suit what solid color waistcoat would look appropriate?

Yes, it is always easier to choose a solid waistcoat if the shirt and tie are patterned. Basically, the greater the number of patterned items you wear, the more informal the dress - and the greater the danger of having patterns clash.

As for the black suit....well... it depends on what sort of "suit". If you mean a lounge suit, then read here:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=8221

If you mean a dress suit:



...a white pique waistcoat is correct.

Here is another dress suit worn with this time with a waistcoat with a horse shoe shaped front:



Notice the way it forms an elegant U shape.

SoCal2NYC wrote not to button the bottom button. I have heard that before, but where does the rule come from? And is it an American usage, a European one, or both? Not vital information, but if one does wear the thing (which I do from time to time), then one wants to do it right.

I believe 'vest' in england refers to the garment known where I grew up as a 'wife beater'.

I just though I'd toss that helpful bit of info out.