The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

gdl203 · Nov 29, 2007

Originally Posted by kali77

By the way your Panerai looks stellar on that strap. I always enjoy your posts here.

Thanks.

I don't want to take credit for the strap idea or the gold hands... I just shamelessly tried to copy the design of what I (and other Paneristi) consider to be the best looking modern Panerai and the first special edition made by Vendome after they acquired Panerai: the platinum-cased PAM21

Mine is essentially a poorman's version of that grail watch

m_wave · Nov 30, 2007

Recently purchased a lovely IWC Portuguese, but am having issues with shirt sleeves... What do others do with large watches? I wear a mixture of normal and french cuff shirts and find that the normal cuffs either are tight over the watch or are pushed back under the sleeve of my suit meaning I show no shirt.. Italian solution of watch over shirts cuff anyone? Other options

Yours Wristy

LabelKing · Nov 30, 2007

Most Panerais I find tacky, but that is a very nice-looking Panerai. In fact, the Radiomir model seems to be the most attractive, I think. It seems closest to the old ones, which I recall were done by Rolex?

As for the tight shirt issue, when I wear a tight-cuffed sweater, I wear it over the sleeve.

zippyh · Nov 30, 2007

Originally Posted by LabelKing

Most Panerais I find tacky, but that is a very nice-looking Panerai. In fact, the Radiomir model seems to be the most attractive, I think. It seems closest to the old ones, which I recall were done by Rolex?

They used Rolex movements but I think that was the extent of the Rolex involvement.

The Radiomir is known as the the "Officer's Watch" and wasn't designed with the same utlilitarian intent as the models with the crown lock.

TheFoo · Nov 30, 2007

Originally Posted by m_wave

Recently purchased a lovely IWC Portuguese, but am having issues with shirt sleeves...

What do others do with large watches? I wear a mixture of normal and french cuff shirts and find that the normal cuffs either are tight over the watch or are pushed back under the sleeve of my suit meaning I show no shirt..

Italian solution of watch over shirts cuff anyone? Other options

Yours Wristy

If having your shirts made with larger cuffs isn't an option, try using cuff links with a bigger link between ends or more give. Silk knots (which have elastic in the 'link' part) stretch apart a bit and work quite well for this purpose.

gdl203 · Nov 30, 2007

Originally Posted by zippyh

They used Rolex movements but I think that was the extent of the Rolex involvement.
Yes - case design and other details/innovation like the crown lock were Panerai's. Panerai was a navy/military instrument maker, not a watchmaker, so their heritage resides in the design of the watches and cases rather than the movements

SoCal2NYC · Nov 30, 2007

And now you can finally buy their 1st ever manufacture/in-house movement. It's only in the Radomir 8 Day Reserve, right?

TheFoo · Nov 30, 2007

Originally Posted by SoCal2NYC

And now you can finally buy their 1st ever manufacture/in-house movement. It's only in the Radomir 8 Day Reserve, right?

There's also a Luminor 1950 watch with the same movement; in fact, I think the Luminor came first.

gdl203 · Nov 30, 2007

Originally Posted by mafoofan

There's also a Luminor 1950 watch with the same movement; in fact, I think the Luminor came first.

Yes. More in-house PAMs coming this year but the first one was the Fiddy with 8-day 3-barrel manual movement. It's fugly IMO

TheFoo · Nov 30, 2007

Originally Posted by gdl203

Yes. More in-house PAMs coming this year but the first one was the Fiddy with 8-day 3-barrel manual movement. It's fugly IMO

They're all fugly if you ask me. The power-reserve indicator is hideous. If they were going to do a linear meter, why not have place the pointer inside the slot rather than hang out of it like a buck tooth?

I would be more interested in a time-only in-house movement from Panerai. After all, they've never been movement makers. Since they decided to go down that path it would make more sense to make something more utilitarian instead implementing 8-day power reserves and tourbillions. Such complications just seem at odds with the brand.

gdl203 · Dec 1, 2007

I don't disagree. It's really the PR indicator that kills the dials of all these in-house PAMs. It's too bad because the movements are actually quite interesting by themselves... 8 and 10 day manual, three barrels... Good work overall

At least the tourbillon is in the back of the watch, which I think is a good idea so it doesn't look like a cheap Canal St tourbillon

bcate3 · Dec 1, 2007

Originally Posted by zippyh

They used Rolex movements but I think that was the extent of the Rolex involvement.

The Radiomir is known as the the "Officer's Watch" and wasn't designed with the same utlilitarian intent as the models with the crown lock.

This post reminded me that I always found curious the assertion that rolex used to make the movements for panerai. In my very limited knowledge of Rolex's history, I was under the impression that Rolex had until recently relied on 3rd parties to supply its movements. Rolex may have had close tie-ins with some of the movement sources but the suppliers remained officially independent. After doing a quick google search I found this thread. I don't know if this is the last word, but it appears to add more credible details of the relationship between the companies.

http://forums.timezone.com/pdf.php?th=573280

TheFoo · Dec 1, 2007

Originally Posted by gdl203

I don't disagree. It's really the PR indicator that kills the dials of all these in-house PAMs. It's too bad because the movements are actually quite interesting by themselves... 8 and 10 day manual, three barrels... Good work overall

I'm no watchmaker, but the three barrel approach to achieving an 8-day power reserve seems kind of gimmicky to me. Theoretically, having multiple, smaller barrels mitigates isochronism issues, but this has already been done very effectively using only two barrels (see JLC) and the more barrels used, the more complicated the transmission device. Who needs an unnecessarily complicated watch movement?

I think IWC's solution, using only one barrel but stopping the release of the spring before it is full unwound, is the most mechanically elegant and simple. Of course, I'm a known IWC junkie, so take that for what it's worth.

Frankly, Panerai probably should have just stuck to using JLC's 8-day movement: it's been tested in the market, it's made extremely well, and JLC can probably provide superior quality for less money.

kali77 · Dec 1, 2007

Received a few straps today so thought I would post some photos for fun. Dial up beware

I am also hoping to get my hands on one of a few Ball watches I have been looking at, in the next couple of weeks

warlok1965 · Dec 2, 2007

1964 pie pan Omega Constellation. I just picked it up a few days ago and it seems pretty happy on my wrist so far. I know vintage isn't exciting to everyone here, but I honestly enjoy the patina on the original dial, as well as the fact that someone was living life and doing who-knows-what with this on his wrist before my parents even met.

The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

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