Open or closed quarters?

antirabbit · Sep 10, 2007

What say ye?
I have a new suit with open quarters, I think I like it.
What is the opinions here?
Pics of examples?
is there something inbetween?
What characteristics does each impart?

Manton · Sep 10, 2007

Open!

Closed looks asymetrical, like a Y. Open looks fluid and symetrical, like an X. Closed looks like the coat is out of balance, with a short front and a long back.

grimslade · Sep 10, 2007

Open.

But I'm just saying that because I'm Manton's lapdog. Or fanboy. Or whatever they called me.

DandySF · Sep 10, 2007

Just the other day I noticed a man in a very boxy suit coat with closed quarters. It had a smock-like appearance. Open quarters provide visual interest and serve as a nice counterpoint to the V formed by the lapels.

edmorel · Sep 10, 2007

Originally Posted by grimslade

Open.

But I'm just saying that because I'm Manton's lapdog. Or fanboy. Or whatever they called me.

Sycophant.

grimslade · Sep 11, 2007

Originally Posted by edmorel

Sycophant.

Right!

Thanks.

appolyon · Sep 11, 2007

Can we get pics of examples?

Cantabrigian · Sep 11, 2007

Very closed really doesn't look good - there may be exceptions but I can't think of any.

But more open doesn't necessarily mean better.

This is too open for me:

Manton · Sep 11, 2007

Originally Posted by Cantabrigian

Very closed really doesn't look good - there may be exceptions but I can't think of any.

But more open doesn't necessarily mean better.

This is too open for me:

I don't think it's the openess of the quaters that makes that coat look unusual. It's more the button stance. There are two buttons, neither of which is at the waist of the coat. As I recall, the traditional way to wear such coats was to button both buttons. Doing that, the quarters would close up a bit.

FlaneurNYC · Sep 11, 2007

I also think that having the bottom button done and not the top creates an asymmetry that is unflattering. If the top button were done and the bottom left open, the jacket would look a little more balanced.

Cantabrigian · Sep 11, 2007

I agree that the button stance(s) is weird but I think that even with the top button buttoned, it would still be a little too cut away.

Even with Huntsman one-button coats, the quarters stay closed / overlap a bit lower before opening.

Edit: same sort of thing from Richard Anderson

nioh · Sep 11, 2007

Open!

Goes with a good cut.

Manton · Sep 11, 2007

I agree, I don't like a perfect X. The opening above the button should be a little wider than the opening below. I really don't like it when the opening below is wider. That makes the coat look out of balance in the opposite way: long front, short back.

novalis · Sep 11, 2007

Interestingly enough, some don't think the exposure of open quarters is appropriate. Check out this embedded video at http://www.gregchapman.com/

Near the end of the video, Chapman, a clothier in LA, comments on a client's RTW suit jacket and notes that it "wasn't cut properly in the front and consequently exposes the crotch".

antirabbit · Sep 11, 2007

Isnt that why better suit makers put much time and effort into the front of pants?

Can we get a pic (Manton) of what the ideal looks like?

Open or closed quarters?

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