(Old) Ask a Question, Get an Answer - please ask all quick questions here

^^^ The problem is that you can not judge jeans simply by their ingredients over the internet. Although Zimbabwean is somewhat cherished, there simply isn't a "type" of cotton that we look for versus another. I can't imagine wearing Supima cotton jeans as its characteristics (silkiness among others) would probably not be what I/we like in jeans. It's no suprise that BB's are the ones pushing it since the "fineness of hand" feel and relaxed cut is definitely being marketed towards the older "premium" crowd; that simply ain't us. When I joked about "taste," I meant that we normally don't mention the kind of cotton use in jeans since it tells you nothing about the feel, rigidness, slub, sheen, hairiness, etc. that we look for when buying a pair. It's like someone trying to sell you chocolate over the internet: you can't look at a picture or see where it's from and know how it tastes. You've got to try it in person.

I need a pair of basic jeans for everything. I would prefer them to be dark so I can dress them up or down. I am built athletically, I usually have to buy sizes up to fit my quads., the waist ends up being too big and the length too long. Does cuffing look bad or should I get them tailored? Not too baggy, not too skinny. Any suggestions?

^^
Samurai s5000vx

www.ssense.com

I searched the forum but I could not find much info. Are these guys reputable? I had bad experience with some other online company from Montreal...

For those in US who ordered from them before: did you have to pay any customs duties?

TIA!

Originally Posted by whodini

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^^^

The problem is that you can not judge jeans simply by their ingredients over the internet. Although Zimbabwean is somewhat cherished, there simply isn't a "type" of cotton that we look for versus another. I can't imagine wearing Supima cotton jeans as its characteristics (silkiness among others) would probably not be what I/we like in jeans.

It's no suprise that BB's are the ones pushing it since the "fineness of hand" feel and relaxed cut is definitely being marketed towards the older "premium" crowd; that simply ain't us.

When I joked about "taste," I meant that we normally don't mention the kind of cotton use in jeans since it tells you nothing about the feel, rigidness, slub, sheen, hairiness, etc. that we look for when buying a pair. It's like someone trying to sell you chocolate over the internet: you can't look at a picture or see where it's from and know how it tastes. You've got to try it in person.

Fair enough. That's why I modified my question and asked what kinds of cottons are used in the higher end jeans favored here. But you're saying the quality of cotton isn't such a concern, it's the other things you name that you look for?

Btw, since jeans are casual streetwear, is it fair to say that most (if not virtually all) denim cottons are made from shorter fibers? Since the longer fibers would result in a fabric that has a "fine hand" which isn't desirable in denim?

Originally Posted by hchamp

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Fair enough. That's why I modified my question and asked what kinds of cottons are used in the higher end jeans favored here. But you're saying the quality of cotton isn't such a concern, it's the other things you name that you look for?

Btw, since jeans are casual streetwear, is it fair to say that most (if not virtually all) denim cottons are made from shorter fibers? Since the longer fibers would result in a fabric that has a "fine hand" which isn't desirable in denim?
Again, a majority of the jeans worn here are purchased without any consideration to the cotton, with a few notable exceptions. The quality of material used in jeans does matter but what I meant before is that unless you have prior experience with the brand, you really have no idea what to expect when purchasing online. For example, from Context:

The Crate James in dry selvage denim is 100% American Made. Made of Cone Loomed American Selvage Denim.

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Made of Zimbabwean cotton, rope dyed in Natural Indigo, fabric produced and tailored in Okayama Prefecture Japan.

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This is our first Japanese 14oz denim and it's the beauty amount the fabrics. This fabric is a right hand construction with a slubby yarn. It has a tight weaving and it's a selvage denim woven on a tradition style shuttle loom.

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The Nudie Jeans Even Steven Dry Organic is made of 100% organic cotton - ecologically friendly - and dyed with Greencast Indigo.

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Is organic cotton better than Zimbabwean? Should I prefer it over American Cone? Why would it be "better?" It would come down to what you're looking for, personally speaking. If you wanted "soft" jeans, then you might equate Supima cotton with quality. If you wanted "hairy" jeans, then KMW would be quality. Or if you wanted something a bit more vintage deadstock, then maybe you'd decide on Cone (who makes/used to make jeans for several different companies that ranged in cost/quality). Others may look for Zimbabwean or cottons blended with plants like SugarCane, but I'm personally more concerned about the end result than anything else. You could have used nice cotton and still come out with poorly constructed jeans. The fiber length depends on manufacturer. 45RPM, for example, do use longer fibers.

anyone know of any Cheap Monday online suppliers apart from DB and Urban...I can't find any dry selvedge jeans except the ones on DB and I don't like them...anyone know places with a wider selection?

Originally Posted by whodini

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Again, a majority of the jeans worn here are purchased without any consideration to the cotton, with a few notable exceptions. The quality of material used in jeans does matter but what I meant before is that unless you have prior experience with the brand, you really have no idea what to expect when purchasing online.

For example, from Context:





Is organic cotton better than Zimbabwean? Should I prefer it over American Cone? Why would it be "better?"

It would come down to what you're looking for, personally speaking. If you wanted "soft" jeans, then you might equate Supima cotton with quality. If you wanted "hairy" jeans, then KMW would be quality. Or if you wanted something a bit more vintage deadstock, then maybe you'd decide on Cone (who makes/used to make jeans for several different companies that ranged in cost/quality).

Others may look for Zimbabwean or cottons blended with plants like SugarCane, but I'm personally more concerned about the end result than anything else. You could have used nice cotton and still come out with poorly constructed jeans.

The fiber length depends on manufacturer. 45RPM, for example, do use longer fibers.

What's special about Zimbabwean cotton? And what do you mean by "hairy" and "vintage deadstock"?

Originally Posted by migo

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anyone know of any Cheap Monday online suppliers apart from DB and Urban...I can't find any dry selvedge jeans except the ones on DB and I don't like them...anyone know places with a wider selection?

context
self edge
blue in green

Originally Posted by migo

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anyone know of any Cheap Monday online suppliers apart from DB and Urban...I can't find any dry selvedge jeans except the ones on DB and I don't like them...anyone know places with a wider selection?

CaliRoots has LOADS of CM. You might pay a little extra for shipping but it's nothing outrageous.

Originally Posted by hchamp

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What's special about Zimbabwean cotton? And what do you mean by "hairy" and "vintage deadstock"?

Do you live in/near a major US metropolis? These concepts would be x10000000 easier to explain if you could see the jeans in person.

Zimbabwean cotton is considered to be some of the best cotton in the world. Obviously this depends on who you talk to, but higher-end manufacturers like KMW and 45RPM claims it as their staple.

"Hairy" denim: Exactly what it sounds like: denim that appears fuzzy to the eye/touch. If you're REALLY pressed and have no idea what the hell this looks like, I'll dig up some old photos of my RRL's.

"Vintage deadstock": Vintage deadstock is a bit redundant but it refers to stock no longer sold/made. The Crate selvage model was made using deadstock Cone, i.e., material they no longer make or sell. As I remember hearing it, the material came off an old Levi selvage line.

But again, if you live in a MAJOR city this could all be understood with a trip to a store.

Originally Posted by whodini

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CaliRoots has LOADS of CM. You might pay a little extra for shipping but it's nothing outrageous.



Do you live in/near a major US metropolis? These concepts would be x10000000 easier to explain if you could see the jeans in person.

Zimbabwean cotton is considered to be some of the best cotton in the world. Obviously this depends on who you talk to, but higher-end manufacturers like KMW and 45RPM claims it as their staple.

"Hairy" denim: Exactly what it sounds like: denim that appears fuzzy to the eye/touch. If you're REALLY pressed and have no idea what the hell this looks like, I'll dig up some old photos of my RRL's.

"Vintage deadstock": Vintage deadstock is a bit redundant but it refers to stock no longer sold/made. The Crate selvage model was made using deadstock Cone, i.e., material they no longer make or sell. As I remember hearing it, the material came off an old Levi selvage line.

But again, if you live in a MAJOR city this could all be understood with a trip to a store.

I plan to check it out next time I'm in _____. But for now, this board will have to suffice. I mean, that's the point of this thread, right?

And if you have some photos of hairy jeans handy I'd love to see em.

thanx

Whodini, nice explanation, very informative. You are very much right that just having a certain cotton does not make the denim great but certainly it does afftect it. Supima is very long and streaky and usually very obvious when used in denim and has that luster to it. Most heavy denims use U.S./Aus cotton which are shorter in length, they are woven tighter to make the threads because they are shorter which makes the denim harder.. (samurai's for example) but of course not everyone wants a harder denim. Zimbabwe cotton is longer so threads need not be wound as tight and thus come out softer. It doesn't mean they are any weaker though just softer, you will see this used in a lot of high-end mid weight denims. Personally I like a denim that is both soft and durable. PRPS uses Zimbabwe as well and the fabric is quite nice.
Thread count and size are also big factors, I see some companies post thread size (6x6 being the most obvious denim to do this..) but not many post thread counts. (maybe those are secrets?)

Look in the post pics of your denim thread here and look on http://supertalk.superfuture.com in the superdenim section at some of the threads and that show pictures of different denim worn in and raw. Good examples of hairy, slubby, rough, smooth, etc...

Thanks. I checked out some of those pictures and couldn't help but notice that guys like to wear their jeans a lot without washing them! Some of those jeans were really grungy, even disgusting. This is done on purpose, so my question is what is the appeal of wearing jeans that look like and literally have never been washed? Do young girls get off on this look?

???? What jeans were disgusting looking? I'm really curious. Link pics or something. You don't need to wash your jeans every day or even every week. It's just common sense. Wash them when they get dirty and smell. If they don't, wear it again. How often would you dry clean a suit? After every few wears? No, when the situation calls for it. There is a chance you may be on the wrong forum, at least for fashion. I don't mean that in an offensive way, but it's just something to think of. I have had my Pure Blue Japan jeans since about march and i haven't washed them yet. I don't wear them every day but a few days a week and they don't smell or look dirty or call for washing. Also, what is the "do young girls get off on this look" comment about? Have you read this forum in the past month you've been here? There have been about 2-3 threads about this subject and the general consensus is that a majority of style forum members in the sw&d section dress for themselves and more as a hobby and not for what "young girls" are looking to get off too. I don't know what to tell you. If you want the brooks brothers jeans, then just buy them, but don't expect anyone online or in real life to be all that interested. Maybe re-read your own thread http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=41307 If you still don't understand, just don't worry about it. Not everyone has to be into denim.