Please critique my first WW Chan Suit

Originally Posted by aportnoy

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The width of the pin stripe spacing vis a vis the width of the stripe spacing on the tie, I believe.

Is there a hard and fast rule on this? The tie should have wider or narrower spacing, or is it just key that it doesn't match exactly?

Originally Posted by Freddy Vandecasteele

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Once you get it adjusted you are going to stop traffic in it. I also would say if ever a suit called for French cuffs, this is it!

I would take care of the pants lenght and wear it ,After a while you will see some problems go away and some other amplify.The shirt looks good. But you are very close to a magazine look.
Freddy vandecasteele

Thanks Freddy,

You know what, this is the white french cuff shirt you made me! I am wearing some nice cufflinks with the shirt, but you can't see them in the pic.

For all: What are the general guidelines with respect to suit sleeve length, french cuffs, and exposing the cuffs/links? Are you suppose to be able to tell in a photo that I have french cuffs on??? Perhaps a side view shot should reveal this?

Originally Posted by teddieriley

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Thanks Freddy,

You know what, this is the white french cuff shirt you made me! I am wearing some nice cufflinks with the shirt, but you can't see them in the pic.

For all: What are the general guidelines with respect to suit sleeve length, french cuffs, and exposing the cuffs/links? Are you suppose to be able to tell in a photo that I have french cuffs on??? Perhaps a side view shot should reveal this?

Well, they sure didn't look like French cuffs to me from the pictures...this may be an indication that the suit sleeves are a bit long and/ or the shirt sleeves are a bit short.

By way of update, I saw Patrick this morning. I cannot be more pleased with my experience.

He identified every issue we discussed on this thread without me having to mention anything. I even came prepared with a print out of the areas Matt pointed out in the above photos, but didn't need to refer to pics. Patrick saw the ridging on the upper arms under both shoulders and acknowledged there was too much material. He realized my shoulder does slope and mentioned that at Chan they do it the right way by cutting the material as needed rather than "balancing" the sloping shoulder by just adding more padding (something he said other places do to take a short cut). Since this was the first shot after only one set of measurements, Patrick did quite well and readily knew what needed to be fixed.

He wanted things to be perfect with the fit so he actually removed the right sleeve at the head and pinned it the way it shoud look and said the same thing would be done to the left sleeve. He was very meticulous about pinning and repinning, and he took quite a number of digital photos for reference. I did not opt to extend the shoulder any more since Patrick suggested the proportions might be off. Besides, with the pinning he did with the extra material, the shoulder looked excellent, and the purpose of me going MTM is to get a nice fitted look without having shoulders that jut out more than they should as on my RTW suits.

He also thought a little bit more suppression of the jacket was warranted, and he pinned material right under the collar so that it would lay flat. With respect to comments that the suppression and proportions looked a bit off, he thought if you tried to suppress the waist lower, it would throw off the balance because the bottom portion of the jacket would look short compared to the top. He said he'd do it if I want, so I know his suggestion wasn't just so he didn't have to make that change. He pinned it for me to see, and I do agree. Also as I requested, he is going to shorten both sleeves and hem the pants at an angle.

Patrick asked if I could ship the suit back to hong kong, but I asked if I could just leave it with him. Without any convincing he agreed but said they still had to go to San Francisco, so I felt a little bad having for them to lug it around.

I wasn't really expecting him to make what I consider significant changes to the first suit and thought they would be made with the next one. He said changes to my paper pattern would be made.

If anyone has any hesitation about going the Chan route, I can't more emphatically recommend them for the great service I got from Patrick. I can't wait to get the suit in about a month, and upon trying it on, I'd be ready to order my next one.

And thanks everyone here for their comments and suggestions.

Excellent. When he is finished you will have a very, very nice suit.

Originally Posted by iammatt

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Not bad for a first suit. These are the problems I would fix.

4.

Originally Posted by Manton

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it's a bit rich for Internet cowboys to pick every possible nit of every photo they see ......Especially rich are those cowboys who think they can, from one awkwardly posed picture, better determine how a garment fits than the owner who has actually worn it a number of times.

Originally Posted by Tomasso

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Originally Posted by teddieriley

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If anyone has any hesitation about going the Chan route, I can't more emphatically recommend them for the great service I got from Patrick.

+1 here!

They really stand behind their garments, and Patrick is a great guy to work with. I must have been with Patrick shortly after you left that morning. I ordered another Holland & Sherry tweed hacking jacket, and I am hoping to order another jacket direct from HK before he comes back in November. I had one of my tires disintegrate on the freeway on the way back from my Chan appointment. I was just very grateful it didn't happen on the way up--it really would have loused up my appointment!

I love the 30s style big lapels and the material is great.

Originally Posted by meister

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I love the 30s style big lapels and the material is great.

Thanks. I didn't mean to achieve a 30's look, but I do remember asking for wider lapels. I do like them, but perhaps on my next peak lapel suit, I'll ask Chan to make them quite a bit narrower.