Good tailor in Vancouver?

I called them up yesterday asking about their price. He said that a 2 piece suit would be starting from $650+taxes. I don't know what kind of fabric they have though. I may check them out when I get a chance. It seems Vancouver is no where close to the choices in HK. Too bad I don't know when I will be going to HK.

There are other options for MTM in Vancouver (which is what you will get--not bespoke--from pretty much any of the tailors here). The Zegna store has a MTM program. I think Harry Rosen does this with Samuelsohn or Coppley, and Barron Lee, at Madison Lee (corner of Burrard and Pender) has a Belvest MTM program. These would run you considerably more than the $650 you noted, but the results would be much better too.

BTW, I think that Tony Arletto is now in what might be called semi-retirement. If you wanted to connect with him, you could call up and make an appointment, but don't necessarily expect to see him by just dropping in.

Originally Posted by MI-6

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I called them up yesterday asking about their price. He said that a 2 piece suit would be starting from $650+taxes. I don't know what kind of fabric they have though. I may check them out when I get a chance. It seems Vancouver is no where close to the choices in HK. Too bad I don't know when I will be going to HK.

Interesting history on Modernize Tailors: http://www.asiancanadian.net/2007/04...-restored.html And a video: http://www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/Grea...et&storyid=204 I think the $650 starting price is meant to get the uninitiated in the door. The "stash" of vintage fabrics sounds interesting (read: we have lots of old stock); I'm going to stop by today for some alterations and check out the goods.

Let me know what you think about them! Thanks!

Originally Posted by TheHoff

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Interesting history on Modernize Tailors:

http://www.asiancanadian.net/2007/04...-restored.html

And a video:

http://www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/Grea...et&storyid=204

I think the $650 starting price is meant to get the uninitiated in the door. The "stash" of vintage fabrics sounds interesting (read: we have lots of old stock); I'm going to stop by today for some alterations and check out the goods.

Originally Posted by Roger

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There are other options for MTM in Vancouver (which is what you will get--not bespoke--from pretty much any of the tailors here). The Zegna store has a MTM program. I think Harry Rosen does this with Samuelsohn or Coppley, and Barron Lee, at Madison Lee (corner of Burrard and Pender) has a Belvest MTM program. These would run you considerably more than the $650 you noted, but the results would be much better too.

BTW, I think that Tony Arletto is now in what might be called semi-retirement. If you wanted to connect with him, you could call up and make an appointment, but don't necessarily expect to see him by just dropping in.

Does those MTM programs allow for specific armhole sizes? I want to get a high armhole suit.

Originally Posted by MI-6

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Does those MTM programs allow for specific armhole sizes? I want to get a high armhole suit.
I honestly don't know. I haven't had a MTM suit done. It might be that you'd have more success going to an individual tailor (like Tony Arletto, or Frank, at Minichiello in N. Van) and asking for that adaptation of their stock pattern. It's the fact that they will, in all likelihood, work from their own stock pattern that takes their work out of the realm of bespoke. With large programs like the Zegna and Belvest ones, for example, they may not allow much variation (except for size, of course, and a few fitting features), but with a smaller MTM suitmaker, there may be more flexibility. The problem, however, with the small guy (or any MTM program, I guess) is that you are stuck with a pattern you might not really like. I'm thinking that with Tony Arletto out of the picture much of the time now, Frank (don't know his last name) over at Minichiello might be a better bet--although I know nothing about Modernize Tailors, who may be better still.

I went to see the Venerable Modernize Tailors today. The shop is in a renovated building on Pender and Carrall -- a quick buzz at the door and I was let in to a good size lobby with a glassed in workroom where you could see the brothers and apprentice at work. After describing the alterations I was after, I was passed on to Bill Wong. A spry gentleman in his 80's, he had obviously been at this a long, long, long time.

I was sized up for a jacket alteration and a few shirt darts and sleeve corrections and then I spoke to him about MTM suitings. I was underwhelmed by the fabrics to say the least. The price started at $650 and went to $800 when I asked for their finest book of wools. Off the top of my head I was looking for something summery perhaps with a windowpane but there was nothing available. I asked about charges if I supplied the material and was quoted $500-600. If I ran across a fabric I loved I would probably take a stab with this as there isn't much to lose at this price and it would be interesting to see the Wong's experience at work. Since this isn't in my near future, I didn't inquire about a house style but I get the feeling he would try and imitate any jacket you supplied.

The shop was busy and customers other than me (3 or 4 came in) were all greeted with a smile and by name... obviously a shop that keeps the clientele. I wasn't amazed at the turn around -- 2 weeks for a few simple things -- but I understand how some services are indemand and they can set their own timeframes. Bill did give me pointers on how he preferred the sleeve length on the more casual jacket I brought in and also said I should not nip the waist -- where as Tony would've nipped it anyway. Having made the trek out there, I would probably go back to Tony Tran at European Custom for these sort of things as the timeframe is faster and he is quite competent with them.

And since this is a good and active Vancouver thread, I should put in a good word for Busy Bee gold dry cleaning in south False Creek. I read a recommendation for them in one of the local magazines and they lived up to the billing. The owner talked with me for 15 minutes about the care of linen -- and he was able to get out the entire plate of fried appetizers and aoili that a waitress thought my linen required. I nearly lost the use of my pants but they are now back in service.

Originally Posted by TheHoff

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And since this is a good and active Vancouver thread, I should put in a good word for Busy Bee gold dry cleaning in south False Creek. I read a recommendation for them in one of the local magazines and they lived up to the billing. The owner talked with me for 15 minutes about the care of linen -- and he was able to get out the entire plate of fried appetizers and aoili that a waitress thought my linen required. I nearly lost the use of my pants but they are now back in service.
LOL . Jeez, that's going above and beyond. Well, as long as we are into a general Vancouver sartorial thread and on the subject of dry cleaning, I've been very happy with Fletcher's at the corner of Broadway and Arbutus. My wife dropped off a fairly delicate linen coat for cleaning and got a phone call the next day from them in which they went over with her some reasons for not dry cleaning the garment--it didn't really need it that much, and any dry cleaning would compromise the waterproof sealing that had been done to the linen fabric. I was impressed. I've had all my really good stuff--Kiton and Brioni--cleaned by them, and they go over it with you and are extremely careful. No food served however.

I was going to start a Vancouver Sales Thread but I figured that would be dead quick so I'll just post here. I browsed the Harry Rosen and Holt Renfrew summer sales in Vancouver. Abso...lutely....nothing.......interesting..........

Ok a few slight temptations:

Holt -- everything up to 40% off. Which usually meant 10-20% on most things. Charvet ties down to $124. Yay.

The new Ralph Lauren store was as lifeless as before. The only RLPL gear I saw were socks.

Canali had a few nice suits in the sales racks. Some nice fabrics in normal sizes at $1100... which all considered is a pretty good deal for Vancouver.

Harry Rosen -- Summer sale as well but about the same story. The shoe selection is still better since Holt's actually managed to get worse when they moved. Rosen had just a few Canali shoes on sale and no AE's. Nothing caught my eye except for one Canali that only had one size -- a burnt brown derby in sz 8 -- only one available at $399 down from 5 something. Obviously not a great deal but I'm trying to find something positive.

The Bay -- 20% off Ray-Bans, my only purchase today

Originally Posted by TheHoff

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I was going to start a Vancouver Sales Thread but I figured that would be dead quick so I'll just post here. I browsed the Harry Rosen and Holt Renfrew summer sales in Vancouver. Abso...lutely....nothing.......interesting..........

Ok a few slight temptations:

Holt -- everything up to 40% off. Which usually meant 10-20% on most things. Charvet ties down to $124. Yay.

The new Ralph Lauren store was as lifeless as before. The only RLPL gear I saw were socks.

Canali had a few nice suits in the sales racks. Some nice fabrics in normal sizes at $1100... which all considered is a pretty good deal for Vancouver.

Harry Rosen -- Summer sale as well but about the same story. The shoe selection is still better since Holt's actually managed to get worse when they moved. Rosen had just a few Canali shoes on sale and no AE's. Nothing caught my eye except for one Canali that only had one size -- a burnt brown derby in sz 8 -- only one available at $399 down from 5 something. Obviously not a great deal but I'm trying to find something positive.

The Bay -- 20% off Ray-Bans, my only purchase today

You're not trying hard enough.

I finally picked up my alterations from Modernize. Mr. Wong did a fine job except for one assumption; one of the pieces was a Boglioli cord jacket I picked up from a Quality Seller for a bit over $100 if I remember correctly. Instead of shortening the sleeves from the cuff, he did it from the shoulder -- of course the better procedure for the jacket cuffs but costlier. I would've approved it if he called but he assumed since it was an expensive jacket with the $995 tag attached that he didn't need to call. I ended up spending almost as much on the alteration as the jacket itself which is always a bit annoying if unplanned.

I probably wouldn't go back as it was more expensive than Tony, is an inconvenient walk carrying a load of clothes and doesn't seem worth a cab ride. One big problem is a total lack of mirrors. They have a nice new building and space but no proper full length mirror.

I've been taking more alterations to Fast Iron Cleaners on Pender; the proprietor is a nice lady from Eastern Europe I'd guess. She sits in her window and you can see her doing all the work herself, including hand ironing of pieces she's finished. She's done fine jobs with my pants and skirts for my wife but I haven't brought a jacket yet.

I used to get some alterations done by Chuck Lee at Oakridge Tailors, but Chuck retired for health reasons several years ago, and I hadn't been back until the other day. A young Korean couple bought Chuck's business, and, as I was at Oakridge shopping, I thought I slip over (not so easy now with the road construction on Cambie) and check out the new operation. I had a new, very light summer raincoat that needed some alteration (a pretty cheap coat on sale at Jos. A. Banks for a song, and one in which the alterations likely couldn't be screwed up too badly). I talked with the new owners (it's still Oakridge Tailors), William and his wife, Joy, and got the impression that she might know what she's doing. Joy, by the way, is the tailor. William seems to be sort of the manager. Joy was evidently trained in Paris over a 5-year period. She can do MTM, alterations, invisible mending (I had been looking for that), garment restyling, and leather repairs (although for the latter, I'd definitely go to the Ace of Suedes). I don't have the coat back yet, but will report in when I do. I asked her to shorten the sleeves and take in the side seams, giving it a little waist suppression where none had existed. She seemed quite knowledgeable. We'll see. BTW, they're at 5534 Cambie (between 39th and 40th on the east side of Cambie).

I've had 4 or 5 suits made by Jack and Bill at Modernize over the years. They do good work, but yes, their fabric choices are limited. They're very very good at alterations though.

Just an update about my experiences with Oakridge Tailors. I've had them do two alterations jobs for me now: (a) the work on the lightweight raincoat that I mentioned in a previous thread (taking the sides to provide a little waist suppression and sleeve-shortening) and (b) some work on a new Cucinelli corduroy sports jacket. On the latter, I had Joy take in the shoulders about 1/2" on each side, shorten the sleeves (after the shoulder work had been done and I came in for a fitting), and convert the sleeve buttons to working buttons. For the shoulder work, the sleeves had to come off. All the work I had done--on both garments--has been fine. I asked Joy about tightening the neck opening a little (to prevent the collar from sitting too far out at the back when I bent certain ways), and she confessed that she couldn't figure out a way to do this. This was disappointing, as I've had Tony Arletto and Frank at Minichiello's do this on sports jackets, although the jacket doesn't really need this that much. After wearing it, and if it looks as if it really needs this, I'll take it to Frank some time I'm over in North Van. Since there is no seam in the collar (on any of my jackets), I must confess I haven't a clue how this is done.

In any case, at this point I'm cautiously optimistic about Oakridge Tailors (East side of Cambie between 39th and 40th, with parking out the back) for less-challenging alterations work. I think they'd be just fine for all trousers alterations like cuffing, taking in the waist, slimming the legs, etc., and most of the standard jacket alterations. As I mentioned earlier, Joy was evidently trained in Paris in a five-year tailoring program there. One nice touch: she's very eager to please and isn't (yet!) as dogmatic as many tailors seem to get!