Thick as Thieves ONLINE

Originally Posted by AlSailor

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Questions for Get Smart:

1) bwong337 on p. 31 says his suit is "conservative business cut". Is this a specific cut that you have, or does one have to specify the desired changes from the more "fashion-forward" cut?

2) Do you offer only one style of pockets on the suit pants?

Thanks.

For a more conservative business cut, make the following changes:
- add another 1-2" of length
- 2B or 3B is appropriate. 2B is probably a notch more conservative, and classic. The 2B is just a 3B with the top button removed, and the lapels re-rolled. It's not on the "menu" but can easily be done.
- omit the hacking pockets, and possibly the ticket pocket
- stick with a notch lapel
- stick with a dark conservative colour (charcoal)
- the lapels are typically 2.75" - you can size up slightly if you'd like

And that's it, your slim fitting, non-Manton approving, GS approving conservative business dress suit.

I really like the pocket style of the pants. What would you want to change it to? I believe GS mentioned before this will not be changed, but I could be wrong.

thanks Bandwagon for the precise and accurate answer!

Oh ****, you can get the lapels widened?

Originally Posted by dusty

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Oh ****, you can get the lapels widened?

I didn't know that either, but GS response was "lapels can be widened to any size." How does one measure lapel width?

the way I measure is at the widest point (the tip of bottom notch or peak) straight across to where lapel ends and shirt would begin. Tho I think my default width is a good compromise of modern narrow. Personally, I make my own stuff even narrower than what I do as a default

No option to change button height though right?

Originally Posted by csgrad

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No option to change button height though right?

no....as it is I'm making a lot more changes than I'd prefer. After all I'm not trying to be a custom suit brand...but offering *my* cut & aesthetic in a MTO format.

Originally Posted by Get Smart

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no....as it is I'm making a lot more changes than I'd prefer. After all I'm not trying to be a custom suit brand...but offering *my* cut & aesthetic in a MTO format.

I was thinking of ordering a DB pinstripe with full-cut pleated trousers, the jacket coming straight down from under the arms to the hem, no waist suppression at all--can you do that?

Originally Posted by Saucemaster

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I was thinking of ordering a DB pinstripe with full-cut pleated trousers, the jacket coming straight down from under the arms to the hem, no waist suppression at all--can you do that?
Jason made me a terrific zoot suit with a mandarin collar, Im sure he would hook you up.

Originally Posted by Bandwagonesque

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For a more conservative business cut, make the following changes:
- add another 1-2" of length
- 2B or 3B is appropriate. 2B is probably a notch more conservative, and classic. The 2B is just a 3B with the top button removed, and the lapels re-rolled. It's not on the "menu" but can easily be done.
- omit the hacking pockets, and possibly the ticket pocket
- stick with a notch lapel
- stick with a dark conservative colour (charcoal)
- the lapels are typically 2.75" - you can size up slightly if you'd like

And that's it, your slim fitting, non-Manton approving, GS approving conservative business dress suit.

I really like the pocket style of the pants. What would you want to change it to? I believe GS mentioned before this will not be changed, but I could be wrong.


Thanks for your help, Bandwagonesque

So pants do not have to be changed for "conservative business cut" (e.g. wider leg openings)?

Originally Posted by Get Smart

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no....as it is I'm making a lot more changes than I'd prefer. After all I'm not trying to be a custom suit brand...but offering *my* cut & aesthetic in a MTO format.

Heh, yeah if I were you I wouldn't be happy about all of these changes. I guess it's cool that you're selling suits and stuff, but it seems like people are trying to abuse your goodwill and shy away from what your brand is all about. Just my two cents, I guess...

I second AlSailor's question. Does the traditional suit have a wider leg opening? For that matter, does it need wider openings?
I will be working in a pretty conservative environment and was considering a BB suit but I am sure the fitting for this would be nicer.

Originally Posted by AlSailor

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Thanks for your help, Bandwagonesque

So pants do not have to be changed for "conservative business cut" (e.g. wider leg openings)?

How big are your feet? Do you like a break? I really like how GS wears his pants with no break, but that look is just slightly too ballsy for me. I had my hems enlarged to 8"... they look good, but they tend to catch sometimes on the opening of my shoe, and make my feet look huge. I'm having my next suit with hems of 8.25" and I'm hoping that might remedy the situation. I prefer my pants with just a slight break.

If you're thin enough to pull off narrow trousers, keep the small hem. It looks really cool compared to the 9" hems most guys wear.

Originally Posted by Bandwagonesque

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How big are your feet? Do you like a break? I really like how GS wears his pants with no break, but that look is just slightly too ballsy for me. I had my hems enlarged to 8"... they look good, but they tend to catch sometimes on the opening of my shoe, and make my feet look huge. I'm having my next suit with hems of 8.25" and I'm hoping that might remedy the situation. I prefer my pants with just a slight break.

If you're thin enough to pull off narrow trousers, keep the small hem. It looks really cool compared to the 9" hems most guys wear.

I just ordered and that was one of the major changes I made. I specified pretty much every measurement for the pants and widened them slightly. A 7" hem is too much more for. I think a 8" hem looks slim without looking too slim with my 8.5D shoes. I find it just covers the top of my laces.

So my charcoal suit got it's first use today for a job interview. It looked ******* good. So ******* good to the point where I was very overdressed. Never before have I been to an interview where the people sitting across the table from me were dressed so casually. One fella had a baggy blazer, untucked stripey shirt, and jeans. The other guy had a polo tucked into his double pleated dockers with running shoes. The third guy wore a tie, but it was a sports team tie. In the building (I should mention it was a government position I was being interviewed for), jeans, Dockers, untucked shirts, polos were everywhere. And it wasn't even "casual Friday". Did I just commit sartorial suicide?