Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011

srivats · Jun 15, 2011

I agree with your points M, but in the past, atleast from what I know, you did need an introduction to go to a top tailor. I've seen RSS write about how this used to be the case on Savile Row.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I like knowing the price I see on the list is the price I'm going to pay, and that's what everyone else is going to pay, too. <snip> It's not like ordering off a menu or picking something out at the store.
Just quoting out your words out of context like everyone else here, for giggles

(emphasis mine)

marcodalondra · Jun 15, 2011

Even Bulgari gave me a discount in Naples without asking for it.... It is very common to ask for discount on retail prices everywhere but for the multinational.

Guero · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

Cappelli was going to charge me â‚¬100 for ties--which is what Marinella, Cilento and all the other nice places charge--but because I was with Mina he charged me â‚¬90. Come to think of it, all the ones I bought on my own trip were cashmere so maybe â‚¬100 is the cashmere price, which would make sense.

Rubinacci as I recall was â‚¬100 for regular silk and â‚¬120 for cashmere. These were regular fold, I didn't ask about sevens.

I purchased Cappellis last weeek, regular silk, at 80 Euros. I also purchased a Rubinacci last week, regular silk, at 100 Euros. The hospitality in both places, not to mention the quality of the ties, would have shamed me to haggle over those prices.

mishon · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by banis

Attolini told me in December that jackets started from â‚¬2,500.
They told me in May that the price for a suit is â‚¬2,500.

TheFoo · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by mishon

They told me in May that the price for a suit is â‚¬2,500.

Really? That sounds low. Doesn't their MTM start at ~$5k US?

Eustace Tilley · Jun 15, 2011

Is Attolini in Naples full bespoke or MTM?

kcc · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Really? That sounds low. Doesn't their MTM start at ~$5k US?

Not quite, Libani quoted me 4.9K for a MTM sport coat so tack on > 7 big ones for a 2-pc. Said they imported two Napoli tailors to conduct measurements and fittings. I wonder if they'll perform the cutting and sewing for the bespoke operation or ship the stuff back to their hq? Its unimaginable to think that just 2 tailors would assume the voluminous work load expected for the Manhattan boutique.

voxsartoria · Jun 15, 2011

mishon · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Really? That sounds low. Doesn't their MTM start at ~$5k US?
I was also surprised and made plans to come back in the fall and have a few suits and jackets made. I can provide an update once I finalize my plans and get a direct quote, but that was the price that Ciro, the salesman quoted me. There is a store right next to Attolini called Argenio. They quoted me €1500 for a bespoke suit. P.S. Speaking of discount, every store in Naples will give you some. Just ask for some "sconto." The only place where I had to haggle was Tramontano, and that's after buying 2 leather bags, a purse for the Mrs. and a wallet.

Mr.P · Jun 15, 2011

Very well written. Thank you for sharing.

Eustace Tilley · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Full, I believe, but like so:

- B

Thanks

TheFoo · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Thanks

You might recall there was a video posted a year or two ago where the TV show host visits the Attolini factory to be measured for a bespoke suit:

It would appear from the video, and based on what iammatt has described before, that the bespoke suits they sell are made on the same assembly lines as the RTW and MTM stuff. Things are confused even more by the fact that there appears to be no clear distinction between "bespoke" and "made-to-measure" to Italians. Luca and Mariano Rubinacci themselves call their suits "made-to-measure" from time to time, as they simply mean "custom" or "bespoke."

A Y · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Things are confused even more by the fact that there appears to be no clear distinction between "bespoke" and "made-to-measure" to Italians. Luca and Mariano Rubinacci themselves call their suits "made-to-measure" from time to time, as they simply mean "custom" or "bespoke."

Do you know what kind of cutting system R. uses? If it's block manipulation, it seems like there's a very wide fuzzy line between MTM and custom, perhaps analogous to the better MTM shirtmakers.

--Andre

Will · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by banis

They have different prices all the time. First time I paid 90 EUR for ready wool ties and got a pocket square as a gift. Next time I ordered two more wool challis ties again for 90 EUR including shipping. Last time it was 70 EUR for a silk tie and something like 130 for a woman scarf.

It is the definition of a small business. I order every three weeks and roughly half the time he asks me what his price for this or that is.

voxsartoria · Jun 15, 2011

Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011

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