Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011

Eustace Tilley · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Moreover, the idea of dealing with tailors lacking a transparent, organized pricing structure fills me with no small amount of anxiety. I like knowing the price I see on the list is the price I'm going to pay, and that's what everyone else is going to pay, too. The notion of needing a proper introduction to get the right kind of price and service really strikes the wrong chord with me, and I would not want or know how to maintain such a relationship.

While I agree with your thinking, and understand your decision to stick with Rubi, are other Neapolitan tailors really that shady in terms of pricing?

I have had dealings with Solito and Mina, and both have been upfront about their pricing structure. And when I reached out to Formosa and Pirozzi as I was planning a (sadly aborted) trip, they too quoted me specific prices without any issues.

TheFoo · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

I have had dealings with Solito and Mina, and both have been upfront about their pricing structure. And when I reached out to Formosa and Pirozzi as I was planning a (sadly aborted) trip, they too quoted me specific prices without any issues.

Mina caters specifically to foreigners, so the thinking doesn't apply to her. As far as other tailors in Naples: well, come on, everything in southern Italy is negotiable. I would not assume the price you get on paper is what local clients are paying. I've received numerous offers from various people over the years to introduce me to their tailors in Naples in order to get a better price.

Eustace Tilley · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Mina caters specifically to foreigners, so the thinking doesn't apply to her. As far as other tailors in Naples: well, come on, everything in southern Italy is negotiable. I would not assume the price you get on paper is what local clients are paying. I've received numerous offers from various people over the years to introduce me to their tailors in Naples in order to get a better price.

Interesting.

banis · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

While I agree with your thinking, and understand your decision to stick with Rubi, are other Neapolitan tailors really that shady in terms of pricing?

I have had dealings with Solito and Mina, and both have been upfront about their pricing structure. And when I reached out to Formosa and Pirozzi as I was planning a (sadly aborted) trip, they too quoted me specific prices without any issues.

When arranging trip to Naples and contacting different tailors I was told at several places that price is a personal issue and should better be discussed during the meeting. Depending on different reasons, quoted price may be negotiable. In my particular case I got a good deal and received quite a good discount from the initial price.

BTW, what did Formosa and Pirozzi tell you about their prices?

whnay. · Jun 15, 2011

FWIW - I know 4 people that have used Cappelli and each one has been quoted a different price for 4 fold and 7 fold. I don't think the firm is shady in anyway - I just think its a reality of that part of the world.

Manton · Jun 15, 2011

It is well understood in the Naples clothing world that Solito is â‚¬1,500 for a jacket and â‚¬2,000 for a suit. That is in line with his dollar price of 2,100 and 2,800, respectively. (Those prices are for stuff made with his cloth.)

That price is quoted in a guide to Neapolitan tailoring that Gennaro proudly showed me in his shop so he would have a hard time charging more. At least, if he tried, someone might see that and balk.

Eustace Tilley · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by banis

BTW, what did Formosa and Pirozzi tell you about their prices?

Formosa was 2,000 euros. Can't remember Pirozzi - will have to check my email.

TheFoo · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by banis

Depending on different reasons, quoted price may be negotiable. In my particular case I got a good deal and received quite a good discount from the initial price.

The price is always negotiable.

Originally Posted by whnay.

FWIW - I know 4 people that have used Cappelli and each one has been quoted a different price for 4 fold and 7 fold. I don't think the firm is shady in anyway - I just think its a reality of that part of the world.

If it's a small family-operated business in Naples and you take the price they first quote, you're paying too much. Knock-off 30% and go from there.

Manton · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by whnay.

FWIW - I know 4 people that have used Cappelli and each one has been quoted a different price for 4 fold and 7 fold. I don't think the firm is shady in anyway - I just think its a reality of that part of the world.

Cappelli was going to charge me €100 for ties--which is what Marinella, Cilento and all the other nice places charge--but because I was with Mina he charged me €90. Come to think of it, all the ones I bought on my own trip were cashmere so maybe €100 is the cashmere price, which would make sense.

Rubinacci as I recall was €100 for regular silk and €120 for cashmere. These were regular fold, I didn't ask about sevens.

Manton · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Formosa was 2,000 euros. Can't remember Pirozzi - will have to check my email.

€2,000 or thereabouts was what most of the established tailors charge. It's basically that or 1/2 that in the Spanish Quarter or 2x that at Rubinacci.

I didn't ask about prices at Attolini or Eddy Monetti, which are the other "big name" international brands but I bet they are high.

banis · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

Cappelli was going to charge me €100 for ties--which is what Marinella, Cilento and all the other nice places charge--but because I was with Mina he charged me €90. Then I asked foo to proxy me some and he charged foo €70 for linen and €80 for silk. Come to think of it, all the ones I bought on my own trip were cashmere so maybe €100 is the cashmere price, which would make sense. I can also see that linen would be cheaper since the material is cheaper. Rubinacci as I recall was €100 for regular silk and €120 for cashmere. These were regular fold, I didn't ask about sevens.
They have different prices all the time. First time I paid 90 EUR for ready wool ties and got a pocket square as a gift. Next time I ordered two more wool challis ties again for 90 EUR including shipping. Last time it was 70 EUR for a silk tie and something like 130 for a woman scarf.

Originally Posted by Manton

€2,000 or thereabouts was what most of the established tailors charge. It's basically that or 1/2 that in the Spanish Quarter or 2x that at Rubinacci. I didn't ask about prices at Attolini or Eddy Monetti, which are the other "big name" international brands but I bet they are high.
Attolini told me in December that jackets started from €2,500.

Eustace Tilley · Jun 15, 2011

Btw, has anyone noticed the weird / fantastic deal on Rubinacci's homepage:

8 nights at the Casa Rubinacci + 1 bespoke suit for 4,200 euros. Given that his suits regularly start at 4,200 euros or thereabouts, you are essentially getting 8 nights in a nice suite for free.

The one caveat is that the offer mentions 'special cloths' or somesuch. Could be a very limited selection of deadstock fabric for that offer.

Manton · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Btw, has anyone noticed the weird / fantastic deal on Rubinacci's homepage:

8 nights at the Casa Rubinacci + 1 bespoke suit for 4,200 euros. Given that his suits regularly start at 4,200 euros or thereabouts, you are essentially getting 8 nights in a nice suite for free.

The one caveat is that the offer mentions 'special cloths' or somesuch. Could be a very limited selection of deadstock fabric for that offer.

CMT, problem solved.

TheFoo · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Btw, has anyone noticed the weird / fantastic deal on Rubinacci's homepage:

8 nights at the Casa Rubinacci + 1 bespoke suit for 4,200 euros. Given that his suits regularly start at 4,200 euros or thereabouts, you are essentially getting 8 nights in a nice suite for free.

The one caveat is that the offer mentions 'special cloths' or somesuch. Could be a very limited selection of deadstock fabric for that offer.

That caught my attention, too. I think, however, it's not quite that good to be true. More plausibly, what they mean is that if you pay for 8 nights, you get a suit for 4,200 euros, which is 200 euros lower than their standard price.

Eustace Tilley · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

CMT, problem solved.

Still a great deal.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

That caught my attention, too. I think, however, it's not quite that good to be true. More plausibly, what they mean is that if you pay for 8 nights, you get a suit for 4,200 euros, which is 200 euros lower than their standard price.

Damn

Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011

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