Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011

Originally Posted by Rufino

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+1000 Those firms as Rubinacci are totally hyped and overpriced . Also I have never seen a good fitting jacket on Rubinacci Sr.
If you feel this way, why did you buy their book?

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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Did you take it back a second time (i.e. last month) after you had worn it a bit (as they suggested)?

Originally Posted by Manton

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No.

Originally Posted by Manton

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Not that I tried to take a poll or anything but the people I talked to in Naples all respect the Rubinacci product, respect Mariano the man, and think the shop is good for the industry. I sensed a mixture of exasperation and envy over the pricing, which is to be expected.

The price of accessories FWIW is not out of line with what you pay for comparable stuff elsewhere in Naples. Only the tailored clothing is.

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

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It seems to be that people are confusing "better" with "more handwork", or "more labor intensive". I don't think doing something more labor intensive constitutes as better, it just rather requires more time and attention and some people have no issue paying a premium for that.

I don't anyone's tried to equate handwork with 'better'.

Originally Posted by whnay.

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As far as the "tourist" comment - of course LH caters to tourists - it's a global business. That doesn't make it anyless Neapolitan than any other tailor in Naples that does work for primarily Neapolitans. Let's remember - LH put tailoring from Naples on the global map. Many of the most well known tailors in town originated or spent time at LH - Panico, Attolini, Anna M, Ambrosi to name a few. I chose LH for a lot of reasons but its global reach was surely one of them.

This is a valid point. I'm not sure why it should matter to what degree a tailor's clientele is local. In fact, if anything, being able to attract clients from further abroad implies merit.

Now, I can understand if your concern is for adherence to regional tastes, but again that's a losing point here. If you are talking about 'classic' Neapolitan, Rubinacci is at least as good a bet as any other--they have the history and consistency of product oved decades and decades to prove it. If you're talking about what's fashionable in Naples at this moment, then I concede that Rubinacci is not the right place for you. But that raises the question: why value contemporary Neapolitan taste over long-term Neapolitan taste?

One tailor thought he was saying something negative about Rubinacci when he boasted that his shop is "more in the fashion" while London House is stuck in the 1930's. Of course, I took his comment quite differently.

Seemed like a waste of time. Maybe I will this fall.

Originally Posted by Manton

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Seemed like a waste of time. Maybe I will this fall.

Told ya you should have taken a hard line with them back when they first delivered. Now you've got a lot less leverage.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Told ya you should have taken a hard line with them back when they first delivered. Now you've got a lot less leverage.

They were not going to take the coat back. They made that clear. I had no way to force them, either.

Originally Posted by Manton

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They were not going to take the coat back. They made that clear. I had no way to force them, either.

Credit card?

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Credit card?

I guess but that's a pain. CC company is probably not going to side with you if you actually got your goods. It was hell getting my money back on the Beaman suit, which I never even received.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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And 'Napoli Su Misura' carries much street cred in Naples?
Frankly?
None. There were probably a couple of people who heard who is Mina (I won't say anything that was talked about her) and anything about NSM.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Asian

Talk to the Hong Kong boys who have worked with Liverano. They tell me that he, for the lack of a better expression, puts the shaping [e.g. canvas] in all the right places for the Asian physique [non-steroided, of course].

In order of "looking good" as far as what Rubinacci puts out seen here - Iammatt, Whnay, you, Montesquieu.

Just an opinion.

- M

Originally Posted by whnay.

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.... Many of the most well known tailors in town originated or spent time at LH - Panico, Attolini, Anna M, Ambrosi to name a few. I chose LH for a lot of reasons but its global reach was surely one of them.

This is not entirely correct from a number of reasons as it is not that Rubinacci created the neapolitan tailoring style. However I have experienced in the past in other field the danger of exchanging views via a thread like this and the difficulty of making the right point, instead people may pick up on one or two statements and arguing on that rather than the concept of the whole thread.

I have pictures from my maternal great-grandfather, a notorious lawyer, Marquise a member of the high society in Naples of around 1890-1910. Next time I am in Naples I will scan and post some of them. The soft shoulder, large lapels etc... were already present. De Nicola/Blasi school and Morziello/Gallo/Attolini school of late 800 early 900 were different in styling but both had similar points that are mostly still found in today’s Neapolitan bespoke products. Also the "Neapolitan shoulder" is a "working shoulder", in that Neapolitans, while being classic and dressing smart, are still been able to move around and feel comfortable (in that the main differences with SR houses).
My point is not this is better then the other. I use Volpe but I am also aware of other tailors and surely would not consider paying more ofr Rubinacci price when there is no added value that I can see, outside of personal preference.
Matt,
Returning to an earlier statement, can you please clarify if your LH products were more the results of Rubinacci suggestion or your own choices in terms of the proportionality and balance you are referring to? Looking at both what you are wearing and what they wear in most pictures posted on the net I cannot really see this.

Originally Posted by Manton

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I guess but that's a pain. CC company is probably not going to side with you if you actually got your goods. It was hell getting my money back on the Beaman suit, which I never even received.

It definitely seems worth it in my mind to at least meet with them in NYC next time they're here and mention that you did exactly what they said by wearing the coat and allowing it to break in, but it's still not to your satisfaction. I have a hard time believing they'd do nothing at all and refuse it especially if you mention there's no rush. I could be wrong though.

Originally Posted by banis

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Frankly?
None. There were probably a couple of people who heard who is Mina (I won't say anything that was talked about her) and anything about NSM.

It was a rhetorical question--obviously, the answer is none. Yet, that alone says nothing about the quality of the goods, or to what degree they are 'Neapolitan'.

Originally Posted by mmkn

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Talk to the Hong Kong boys who have worked with Liverano. They tell me that he, for the lack of a better expression, puts the shaping [e.g. canvas] in all the right places for the Asian physique [non-steroided, of course].

In order of "looking good" as far as what Rubinacci puts out seen here - Iammatt, Whnay, you, Montesquieu.

Just an opinion.

I have no idea what the "Asian physique" is, steroided or otherwise.

Originally Posted by whnay.

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My experiences with Ambrosi, for example, have not been ideal. If I had to do it all over again I'd be 50/50 on just bitting the bullet and going exclusively with LH for trousers.
As for me, I will most definetely not use him in the future. And will not advise him to anyone. Eventhough his product is great and of great quality. His awful attitude towards clients is really out of this world. Being a nice person when you meet him and quite ignorant almost immediately after you pay for your order.

Actually, I went all over the city with Mina on two seperate occasions and absolutely everyone in the clothing biz knew her personally and treated her very warmly. How much they know about her current product/venture I have no idea, but she has been in the biz there for a long time and they all know her.