Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Click to expand...

I will happily defer to you on the specific subject of Volpe, but I've heard from more than one Neapolitan in the trade that Rubinacci does the best work in Naples. The degree to which that is true is another matter--but my point is that one hears just as much good as bad from competitors, and to my mind, the former is more telling than the latter.
Not trying to be defensive on Volpe, but I will stick with what Marco says.

Noone with whom I talked to could say that Rubinacci is the best in the city. Comments were different from quite negative to moderate. It was in the context of asking who is/was best tailor/sartoria in Naples. I have never heard that Rubinacci is best of the best. Among best definetely, but not on top.

Originally Posted by banis

Click to expand...

Not trying to be defensive on Volpe, but I will stick with what Marco says.

Noone with whom I talked to could say that Rubinacci is the best in the city. Comments were different from quite negative to moderate. It was in the context of asking who is/was best tailor/sartoria in Naples. I have never heard that Rubinacci is best of the best. Among best definetely, but not on top.

How is your Volpe stuff compared to NSM? Better or same? They both looked good on you.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Click to expand...

Huntsman before using Mina or Volpe.

I can see why you are oriented towards the British, as Rubinacci is oriented in that direction [e.g. London House] as well.

It is as if there is a continuum from Huntsman to Rubinacci to Mina. You seem more towards the former on that continuum.

However, of all the Italian makes for an Asian template, I like how Mr. Liverano does it best.

- M

so neat. wow. Lately ive REALLY got into wanting some rubinacci. great report!!

Originally Posted by forex

Click to expand...

How is your Volpe stuff compared to NSM? Better or same? They both looked good on you.
I have almost the same feeling as Ed described above. They are almost the same. Difference is that Volpe devoted to me quite a lot of time, while Mina could not give me that much attention. Hence, Volpe's jackets fit a bit better, but not dramatically.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Click to expand...

Like I said, it's clear to me that one assessing styling cues will consider Rubinacci and Volpe easily more similar than Rubinacci and Huntsman. However, what makes Rubinacci great--in my opinion--has little to do with its Neapolitan-ness. They have a very good sense of how to harmonize details and proportions, keeping everything in 'balance' (in the general aesthetic sense of the word).

I used Huntsman as a proxy for a moderate Savile Row firm. I concede that the relaxedness of a Rubinacci jacket would not translate well, but that's far less important to me than the overall shape and proportions of the jacket.

There is frosting and there is cake. Sure, I like certain kinds of frosting more than others, but it's more important to me that the cake is good.

My point is, it is not a moderate firm. Not even close.

The "cake" of a Huntsman coat is so different than a Rubinacci that you would hate it. The only thing that compares is A&S and its offshoots.

Originally Posted by banis

Click to expand...

Not trying to be defensive on Volpe, but I will stick with what Marco says.

Noone with whom I talked to could say that Rubinacci is the best in the city. Comments were different from quite negative to moderate. It was in the context of asking who is/was best tailor/sartoria in Naples. I have never heard that Rubinacci is best of the best. Among best definetely, but not on top.

And 'Napoli Su Misura' carries much street cred in Naples?

The truth is that asking around Naples for opinions is the wrong way of going about this. A competitor and its clients are hardly neutral authorities, and random people are hardly worth listening to in the first place. To make matters worse, it is common practice for tailors to trash-talk the most successful of their competitors.

My judgment of Rubinacci in the Neapolitan context is not dependant on gossip. The history of the firm is well-established and the clothes they make today are essentially the same as what they were making 50-70 years ago. Moreover, they are transparent about the crafting of their product and the resulting workmanship speaks for itself. The service is top-notch, and much better than what my friends report from other tailors around the world.

Why on earth should I care how many Neapolitans think Rubinacci makes a good suit? How many Americans can tell you how to grill the best ribeye? How many Japanese know where to get the best kimono? The quality of the opinion is what counts, not the quantity.

Originally Posted by mmkn

Click to expand...

However, of all the Italian makes for an Asian template, I like how Mr. Liverano does it best.

Tha Asian what?

Not that I tried to take a poll or anything but the people I talked to in Naples all respect the Rubinacci product, respect Mariano the man, and think the shop is good for the industry. I sensed a mixture of exasperation and envy over the pricing, which is to be expected.

The price of accessories FWIW is not out of line with what you pay for comparable stuff elsewhere in Naples. Only the tailored clothing is.

It seems to be that people are confusing "better" with "more handwork", or "more labor intensive". I don't think doing something more labor intensive constitutes as better, it just rather requires more time and attention and some people have no issue paying a premium for that.

Great post, Foo. Good to see you blogging again. Despite what any one else says, you Rubinacci customers seem quite satisfied with their work. I can't recall any one else having a suit made there and saying anything different.

Originally Posted by Manton

Click to expand...

My point is, it is not a moderate firm. Not even close.

The "cake" of a Huntsman coat is so different than a Rubinacci that you would hate it. The only thing that compares is A&S and its offshoots.

And A&S from a quality perspective is far removed from LH. But that's a story for another day.

A few comments:

It's pointless to get in a pissing match about tailors - quality, price, authenticity, etc. What I would say from an American's perspective is that I think its easy to get allured by something that may cost significantly less but when you factor in travel, delays, and miscommunication you will have a greater risk of being left with something that might not be exactly what you want. My experiences with Ambrosi, for example, have not been ideal. If I had to do it all over again I'd be 50/50 on just bitting the bullet and going exclusively with LH for trousers.

As far as the "tourist" comment - of course LH caters to tourists - it's a global business. That doesn't make it anyless Neapolitan than any other tailor in Naples that does work for primarily Neapolitans. Let's remember - LH put tailoring from Naples on the global map. Many of the most well known tailors in town originated or spent time at LH - Panico, Attolini, Anna M, Ambrosi to name a few. I chose LH for a lot of reasons but its global reach was surely one of them.

My A&S coat is sewn very, very well, much better than other SR stuff I have. The problem is that it does not fit properly and they won't acknowledge that or fix it.

Originally Posted by Manton

Click to expand...

My A&S coat is sewn very, very well, much better than other SR stuff I have. The problem is that it does not fit properly and they won't acknowledge that or fix it.

Did you take it back a second time (i.e. last month) after you had worn it a bit (as they suggested)?

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Click to expand...

Did you take it back a second time (i.e. last month) after you had worn it a bit (as they suggested)?

No.

Originally Posted by Manton

Click to expand...

No.

Why not? For such an expensive garment, I would be willing to press the issue.